Domino Face Frame without clamps?

[SidTheShopCat]

Hey all,

Wondering if anyone can shed some wisdom on this problem I have..

I am going to be building a fitted bookcase which runs 2.5m wide by 2.5 high. It will have a 40mm frame on the left/right/top/bottom where it meets the ceiling and walls. I was planning to scribe this in on site and then domino it on. Problem lies on how to get sufficient clamping pressure to close up any gaps where the frame meets the cabinet?

Frame will be solid walnut and the cabinet walnut mdf.

Heres an image to show the scenario!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I am sure i am not the first person to face this situation!

Cheers,[attachimg=1]

Sid.

 

[live4ever]

Depends on how much pressure you need...

Does the cabinet have shelf pin holes?  If so, you could rig up blocks that use a few pins and use them to clamp. 

Brads?  Again, not a ton of clamping pressure and depends on the finish of the face frame and whether you can fill the holes to satisfaction.  21g are a nice balance of holding power and invisibility, though not nearly as invisible as 23g pins (which don't really hold anything). 

If you really have to persuade the face frame, trim head screws + plugs?

Is there anything straight across the bookcase that you can use a tension rod /spreader against?  I've used 3rd hand support poles to do this before when an opposing wall was less than 8' away. 

 

[tjbnwi]

Masking tape on the cabinet side, hot glue blocks of wood to the masking tape, clamp off the blocks of wood.

When done remove blocks and masking tape.

Tom

 

[live4ever]

Oo that's really slick Tom.  I'm always surprised how much shear force hot glue can take.

 

[bkharman]

Another thought... what is the surface, carpet, hardwood, tile?  Make a clamping caul on the floor and up high. Are you going to stain or paint?  In either case, I might use trim head screws up high and caver with Timbermate.

How far away is the other wall from the case. Might be able to put up some 2x4 braces to push frame into the case. I also like the idea of using some of the shelf pin holes to draw it against the case (will definitely steal that one)

Let us know how you get along!

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tjbnwi]

Bryan's response make me recall another method.

Spring loaded adjustable shower curtain rods off an opposing wall protected by plywood pressure plates. I use the curtain rods when installing shower wall panels.

Tom

 

[c_dwyer]

Are the shelves mounted in place already, or can they be slid out a little bit from the back wall?

My project last weekend was a similar issue, a cabinet with a face frame to fit tightly within the space along the back wall of a mud room. In this case, I brought the shelf (cabinet) sections together within the space and held the cabinet out from the wall enough to clamp the face frame to the back of the uprights to get the clamping pressure.  Once the glue dried for the face frame, I slid the plywood (back of the cabinet) in place and shoved the whole thing back against the wall.

Of course, I did this after building a cabinet with the face frame mounted, only to find out that the entire thing was too deep to rotate into place (D'oh!).  So now the first cabinet has a home in the shop instead of the mud room.  [big grin]

 

[J0hn]

https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/3rd-Hand-c46.htm

 

[Holmz]

A few pieces the size of a cubby hole (+1-1/2") attached to the shop vac may generate some clamping force. It would be a big of a mongrel at 2.5M x ~1' as one would need to draw air each cubby, but some large diameter tubing should do it.
If it sealed too well then it could be an issue and the strip may want to get sucked in.

^More of a thought or question.^

 

[Klemm]

this thread is a case in point for the argument that regularly reading the FOG should be recognized with CEU's (Continuing Education Credit Units).
Don't you all agree?
Hans

 

[fixit]

The "third hand" option would be my choice. I have four of these support bars and use them to fix skirting boards (base boards) on a regular basis. They work just fine.

 

[Stone Message]

Is the issue that the cabinet is already built in and then you want to fix the face frame to it?

I did something similar for a kitchen a while ago - it is the double fronted unit on the left of this picture:

[attachimg=1]View attachment 1

I made the face frame up and when the glue was completely set I offered it up and did my scribing. I then attached the frame to the guts of the cupboard in the kitchen but not in situ:

View attachment 2

It was not easy getting the whole thing in place but that was mainly down to the overall weight and me being on my own.

If you want to fit the face frame after the shelf/guts are in place and you use dominos then there is no need to clamp it. A domino joint can be brought together with a soft mallet and should close up okay.

You could always use some of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-clamps-double-edge-clamp-103042

which go with an "F" clamp to push a face frame onto the body behind. You could make something like this up yourself.

Peter