Shutterstile
Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2010
- Messages
- 9
I finally broke down and bought a Domino a couple of months ago. I have every confidence that it will eventually allow me to create mortise and tenon joints much more quickly than the old hollow chisel mortiser and table saw tenoning jig I used to use. I say "eventually" because I'm still trying to work out a couple of critical bugs in the design.
After reading through the Forum, I found a number of others who were having trouble squaring the fence. Several folks suggested a method involving the use of 3/4 stock set on a flat surface. In theory, this ought to work. And to be fair, it does work when using the standard tenons. However, I'm not happy with the standard tenons. I need something much more substantial. So I use the largest cutter, set the machine at it's deepest setting, and make my own tenons which are twice as wide as the widest standard tenon, and a bit longer. Now I've got something really substantial.
The downside is that these larger tenons magnify any error in the machine settings. I quickly discovered that the machine has a slight bit of flex such that, when the fence is set to square while resting on a flat surface (using the recommended method), it doesn't stay square while hanging off the end of a workpiece. Granted the difference is fairly minor and doesn't really matter at all when using the standard tenons. But with my wider and longer tenons, the difference is dramatic and easily seen with a straight edge laid across the joint. So the only way to set it square is with trial and error. Then, once you finally get it right, you've got to fold up the fence to put the machine back in its storage case. In my case, the fence is so far out of square, that the stop doesn't have enough travel to be functional. So I have to leave the machine out of the box to save the adjustment.
A second, related issue is one that I haven't seen mentioned in the Forum previously. I created a jig to allow me to quickly make the double-wide mortises. Basically, it consists of two parallel blocks that serve as stops for the sides of the machine, spaced to provide the correct mortise width. Others have posted similar jigs. The success of this design assumes two critical design characteristics: 1) that the cutter is centered horizontally in the machine; 2) that the base of the machine is square (i.e., that the sides are perpendicular to the face). I'm not sure if the cutter on my machine is centered, because the base is so far out of square that I can't cut a reliable test mortise to check for center. When I set the face of the machine against a work piece, placed in the jig and set perpendicular to the side blocks, the machine doesn't rest square in the jig. I checked the base with a square and found that it is a couple of degrees off. The only way I can think of to compensate for this is to make my jig intentionally out of square the same amount. I'm working on that, but it seems like a pretty crude design flaw for such an expensive piece of equipment.
Finally, I've had problems with the depth setting changing during operation. I recently cut mortises for 24 joints. First I cut mortises in all of the rails, then all of the stiles. I checked the first rail/stile pair to make sure everything lined up before cutting mortises in the remaining stiles. When I was all done, I discovered that the depth setting had change in mid-operation. The tensioning knob was still tight, but the fence was no longer resting on the depth stop. Only the first couple of rail/stile pairs lined up. The mortises in the remaining stiles were cut about a 32nd of an inch deeper than the mortises in the corresponding rails. I have no idea why this happened, and I'm really nervous now that it might happen again. The result is that I take almost as much time cutting mortises with the Domino than I used to take with my old hollow chisel mortiser. It's tough to work with a machine that you don't have confidence in.
Sorry for the lengthy dissertation. Thanks for allowing me to vent.
After reading through the Forum, I found a number of others who were having trouble squaring the fence. Several folks suggested a method involving the use of 3/4 stock set on a flat surface. In theory, this ought to work. And to be fair, it does work when using the standard tenons. However, I'm not happy with the standard tenons. I need something much more substantial. So I use the largest cutter, set the machine at it's deepest setting, and make my own tenons which are twice as wide as the widest standard tenon, and a bit longer. Now I've got something really substantial.
The downside is that these larger tenons magnify any error in the machine settings. I quickly discovered that the machine has a slight bit of flex such that, when the fence is set to square while resting on a flat surface (using the recommended method), it doesn't stay square while hanging off the end of a workpiece. Granted the difference is fairly minor and doesn't really matter at all when using the standard tenons. But with my wider and longer tenons, the difference is dramatic and easily seen with a straight edge laid across the joint. So the only way to set it square is with trial and error. Then, once you finally get it right, you've got to fold up the fence to put the machine back in its storage case. In my case, the fence is so far out of square, that the stop doesn't have enough travel to be functional. So I have to leave the machine out of the box to save the adjustment.
A second, related issue is one that I haven't seen mentioned in the Forum previously. I created a jig to allow me to quickly make the double-wide mortises. Basically, it consists of two parallel blocks that serve as stops for the sides of the machine, spaced to provide the correct mortise width. Others have posted similar jigs. The success of this design assumes two critical design characteristics: 1) that the cutter is centered horizontally in the machine; 2) that the base of the machine is square (i.e., that the sides are perpendicular to the face). I'm not sure if the cutter on my machine is centered, because the base is so far out of square that I can't cut a reliable test mortise to check for center. When I set the face of the machine against a work piece, placed in the jig and set perpendicular to the side blocks, the machine doesn't rest square in the jig. I checked the base with a square and found that it is a couple of degrees off. The only way I can think of to compensate for this is to make my jig intentionally out of square the same amount. I'm working on that, but it seems like a pretty crude design flaw for such an expensive piece of equipment.
Finally, I've had problems with the depth setting changing during operation. I recently cut mortises for 24 joints. First I cut mortises in all of the rails, then all of the stiles. I checked the first rail/stile pair to make sure everything lined up before cutting mortises in the remaining stiles. When I was all done, I discovered that the depth setting had change in mid-operation. The tensioning knob was still tight, but the fence was no longer resting on the depth stop. Only the first couple of rail/stile pairs lined up. The mortises in the remaining stiles were cut about a 32nd of an inch deeper than the mortises in the corresponding rails. I have no idea why this happened, and I'm really nervous now that it might happen again. The result is that I take almost as much time cutting mortises with the Domino than I used to take with my old hollow chisel mortiser. It's tough to work with a machine that you don't have confidence in.
Sorry for the lengthy dissertation. Thanks for allowing me to vent.