Domino Machine bit stuck

[Qualicum]

I have had a domino machine (the small one) for 3 or 4 years now and use it for cabinet door joints, edge jointing plywood panels and other applications.

Often I might have the same mortice cutter in the machine for dozens or many more plunges on projects. Sometimes, (no, almost always), I find changing cutters difficult, as removing the seated cutter requires A LOT of torque, to the point that I'm afraid of breaking the machine. The tiny wrench, that comes with the machine, belabours the torque needed to break the cutter free. I have tried greasing the threads, but have seen no improvement.

Anybody have any tips on easier removal of the domino cutters?

 

[Tayler_mann]

Mine takes very little effort at all. It doesn't take much torque to seat he bit properly. I feel you probably over tightened it possibly.

 

[peter halle]

The secret is not to tighten them further than snug initially based on what I have read here.  I have just snugged mine and they worked perfectly and did not require a gorilla later to get them loose.

Peter

 

[Bohdan]

I don't have the same problem but in the past when I have had problems removing a threaded piece I used a rubber o-ring. This will push the bit out somewhat but the depth is usually not crucial.

The bit being pushed out will result in the slot being wider and deeper than designed. This would only be an issue with the narrow slot.

However I think that bottoming down on a soft rubber ring does not hold the bit securely enough and it could vibrate off.

I agree with Peter that you only need to snug the cutter as the cutting action will keep it tight.

 

[flair woodworks]

Mine used to require a lot of force at the end of the small wrench to remove and I would put the bit on with moderate torque.  Since I've started putting the bit on with less force, I have had no issue removing it later.

 

[tiralie]

Anybody have any tips on easier removal of the domino cutters?

Mine gets tight as well, in fact I busted that wrench Festool gives you and bought a new metric Craftsman wrench to replace it.
Much better.
I take my bits off between use and spray the threads with oil. Seems to help but the bit is way tighter after use than when I first put it on...and I don't tighten it very much.

Tim

 

[sancho57]

Mine used to require a lot of force at the end of the small wrench to remove and I would put the bit on with moderate torque.  Since I've started putting the bit on with less force, I have had no issue removing it later.

Hmmm I thought you would use your magic hammer to tighten the bit. [oops] [oops] [oops]

 

[sancho57]

What Peter said.

 

[tjbnwi]

I tighten the bit on mine past snug, found that the initial cut torque does not slam it tighter.

Tom

 

[Cheese]

It's always been my opinion that the reason the standard DF 500 wrench is so short and diminuntive is because Festool doesn't want you to apply much force on the bit to seat it properly. I screw it on by hand and then lightly seat it with the wrench.

 

[Sparktrician]

Lately, I've been applying a light dab of Permatex anti-seize lubricant to the threads, then screwing on the bit only finger-tight.  Seems to work well for me.  The bits come right off when I need to switch sizes. 

 

[Qualicum]

Thanks for the responses. I will try tightening the bit by hand, instead of the usual torque I do.

 

[Cheese]

Lately, I've been applying a light dab of Permatex anti-seize lubricant to the threads, then screwing on the bit only finger-tight.  Seems to work well for me.  The bits come right off when I need to switch sizes. 

Just went downstairs and checked the DF 500...the bottom of the cutter bit tightens against a shoulder on the drive spindle, so anti-seize on the bottom of the bit should work better than on the threads. So I put a little on the shoulder and a little on the bottom of the bit and the bit does release a lot easier. It's smoother and doesn't have that "crack" feel/sound when it releases.

 

[greg mann]

Lately, I've been applying a light dab of Permatex anti-seize lubricant to the threads, then screwing on the bit only finger-tight.  Seems to work well for me.  The bits come right off when I need to switch sizes. 

Just went downstairs and checked the DF 500...the bottom of the cutter bit tightens against a shoulder on the drive spindle, so anti-seize on the bottom of the bit should work better than on the threads. So I put a little on the shoulder and a little on the bottom of the bit and the bit does release a lot easier. It's smoother and doesn't have that "crack" feel/sound when it releases.

Bingo! I It's the shoulder interface more than the threads. That said, it is pretty hard to put neverseize on the threads without getting some on the shoulders.

 

[festoolviking]

Hi

A tip is to remove the bit right after the last plunge of the day while it's still hot. I find it easier that way. I store the machine in the systainer without a bit installed, at least most of the time.  [wink]

Just my [2cents]

And  [welcome]

Festoolviking