Domino Movement

[stevefitzgerald]

Hi All

I am new to the domino
can anyone tell me how to stop it moving in both X Y axis during a plunge?
is there a skill to it, or do i just have to grip the life out of it?
seems ok when referenced to a pin but not mid board

Steve

 

[Roseland]

If I'm putting a Domino mid panel I clamp a batten across the board as a reference: the centre of the Domino will be 10mm up from the batten.

I hope this helps,

Andrew

 

[Locks14]

Assuming 500 not 700xl, rather than gripping the whole handle with your entire hand, try using just a few fingers from the very back of the tool near the cord.

 

[Phil Beckley]

Hi
One hand on the front handle - push forward.
Second hand as 'Locks 14' says on the back section- all about balance and being smooth [big grin]
Phil
Take a peek at Peter Parfitts vids on D.F.500/700

 

[Gary in Texas]

Steve,

What you are experiencing is not uncommon for new users, and is an issue discussed on this forum many times.  A search will lead you to many threads and suggestions.

Most common response/suggestion is a smooth, slow plunge, and as Locks14 indicated above, place your hands at the back of the tool and try to plunge easily and keep the tool end level.  Some people keep their hand against their body as a brace when plunging.  Also, make sure you keep a good steady force at front of the tool to prevent movement or racking...

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Steve

It may be technique. Take a look at the way I use the Domino in this video and see if that helps:



Peter

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I don't like holding it all the way back by the cord.

 

[fshanno]

Yes, grip the life out of it.  I put serious downward pressure on the fence handle.  And I put some downward pressure on the body.

The point is to keep that fence absolutely flat in contact with the face of the work piece. 

Movement in the X axis is not significant.  Even a millimeter there isn't going to matter much in world where there are rubber mallets.  But the Y axis is another matter.  The Domino sometimes wants to walk up in that Y axis.  Don't let it.

 

[Marshall Monnett]

Sometimes in my experience a chipped or dull cutter has affect on making the domino skip or move around. 

 

[sancho57]

One hand on the handle, the other on the rear about where I can turn it on and off with one finger. Push fwd kinda straight armed to ensure it goes in straight. As has been already mentioned it takes some practice.

Mid panel, I draw a line run a stop maybe a square up to the line and plunge. Either way  be careful the domino is flush against the work.

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Even though I did not really have any problems with the plunge action per se I did feel a bit of under arm strain when using the DF500 on some projects.

Now that I am building a larger interior structure for a company exhibition that is going on tour I finally decided on giving the DF500 ergonomics a work over and came up with the FrankenGrip for the DF500.

For me it has solved all plunging discrepancies in my work - though they were quite small already I find that the add on does help with the alignment and plunge action especially in oak has proven to be even more smooth. Pardon the poor image quality on these:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/domino-df500-frankengrip/

I might revert back to the MkI for some more testing as it is a little neater though I think that the current, MkII is perhaps sturdier over time.

I have now used the FrankenGrip mkII for three consecutive days with about 80+ mortises per session and it is rock solid and there is much less strain in my under arm and I can work the switch right from the grip. Between plunges it is much more relaxing with the add on grip which of course adds to the stress relief on the underarm.

I would like to hear if anyone else has had any success in adding a grip to the DF500. I have an idea of moving the grip a little more forward and center mass but what I like about the grip I made is that the plunging action starts in the rear and that the contraption fits in the existing systainer mold with just a little cutout in the insert so it is now permanently attached.

 

[stillwaterBR]

Smooth and slow is key - especially the harder the material. As other posters mentioned excessive motion can indicate a dull or chipped cutter. It's always wise to have an extra cutter or two on hand of whatever size you use most if you know you are dealing with a hard material. There is nothing worse than being half way through a project or work piece and having a cutter break in you when you font have an extra on hand.