Domino question

[WATTSPD]

Does the domino only work on joining two completly flat surfaces together?  I would like to join a window frame together that has been routed with a sash bit to fit together.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

only problem would be finding a way to ensure that the two pieces are mortised at the same angle.  Maybe clamp the workpiece down and reference the surface of the table you clamped to when you cut each mortise.  Do a dry fit and mark how deep the domino goes in so you can cut the length to fit.

 

[Tim Sproul]

Does the domino only work on joining two completly flat surfaces together? 

I've done a cope and stick joint after routing the cope and stick.  Those have a flat reference surface for the Domino to butt against and so the cutter will plunge square to the reference face.  If you don't have a flat reference surface....not necessarily completely filled but parts of the surface must form a flat plane, aligning the opposing mortises with any accuracy will require some major jigging.

Be sure to test fit the Domino so you know the joint will fully close or not.....if not, trim the Domino lengths to accomodate or mortise a bit deeper, if possible.

 

[lynnsr]

WATTSPD
Absolutely, you can use it for hundreds of things;
http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/Getting_the_most_from_the_Festool_Domino_Machine.pdf

Check out the site, it's a great read From Jerry Work

 

[WATTSPD]

Thanks for the info guys.  This is what kind of joint I had in mind.  I would like to put a domino the the four corners of the window frame.

 

[bruegf]

Why not cut the domino mortises before you shape the rails and stiles?  Just cut them a little deeper than you normally would.

Fred

 

[WATTSPD]

Thanks bruegf,  that sounds like that would work just fine.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Yes, Marc on thewoodwhisperer.com used a similar technique when creating a step stool using the Domino.  He cut Domino mortises prior to cutting 10 degree angles.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-20-a-small-step/

 

[woodshopdemos]

Whether cut before or after coping, try to place the domino where the tongue is (the bearing portion in your pic.)

  If you cut the cope and stick after the Domino (my preference) be aware that there may be slight chipoutat the trailing edge of the D. mortise. Simply use small round file or chisel to trim these feathers. You wont be seeing them but they may be in the way of a perfect joint if left.

 

[brandon.nickel]

I'd like to chime in and potentially hijack this thread:

A project has come up that requires mortising a series of spindles into the curved bottom of a mission-style bed end (can't come up with the official name right now).  This is the top rail on both the head and foot sections.  The top of the rail is straight and the bottom is curved.  Using a traditional mortiser, you just set the rail on its top, mark the mortise locations on the bottom (which is facing up), and drill away.  How can the domino be used to mortise parallel slots into a curved rail?  I don't think this question has come up before.

Bueller, Bueller?

 

[Warrior]

mark the center of each mortise with a line square from the top of the rail, line up the center mark in the veiw window and the center triangle in the dominos fence with one corner of the domino registered against the material and carefully plunge. See if that works.  the mortise depths will vary.

 

[brandon.nickel]

Hmm, that does seem to be the way to go about it, but without a good way to square the Domino to the workpiece, how can I be sure that the mortises are parallel.  There are going to be quite a few of these in a row.  I don't think I'm going to be able to judge this by eye using the portion of the plastic window that overlaps the piece. 

 

[Eli]

If the slats are wider than the medium width setting, it doesn't matter, the shoulders will cover the mortise, which is wide enough to allow for angled insertion (my favorite kind). Unless I misunderstand what you're trying to do.