Domino tab spacing

[ScoFF]

I just got a domino but was thinking about horizontal spacing where you use a tab to space out the next mortise from the side of the previous one.
It's fine when you use consistent size mortises but what if you use tight slot settings for one board and wider slot setting on the second mating board.  If you measure off the end of each wider tenon they won't mate with the other mortises.
Probably a simple answer?

 

[mdelrossi]

probably best to use the stops for the first tight mortise and use pencil marks for the remainder loose mortises.

 

[Birdhunter]

Totally agree with the pencil mark method. I mark where I want the tenons on one piece, place the first and second pieces together as they will be when glued, and transfer the marks from the first piece to the second piece.

I check the location of each mortise before I start the glue up. I've had several instances where I screwed up and the tenons were not all the same distance from the top of the board. My guess is that the fence wasn't tightened down. My fault.

I guess I'm different, but all the mortises on one piece are narrow and all the mortises on the second piece are wide. This method gives me a lot of latitude for glue up time adjustments.

I also mark which pieces go together if several boards are involved. Witness marks are easier to remove than glue up mistakes.

 

[ScoFF]

So I guess if you aren't using pencil marks and want to use fast tab indexing you're forced to use all tight or all looser setting mortises?

 

[roblg3]

how i do it is to use the built in stop on the fence of the domino for the first tight mortise then go to the "wing" stop for all the loose tenons.  It lines up for me.

 

[Crox G]

So I guess if you aren't using pencil marks and want to use fast tab indexing you're forced to use all tight or all looser setting mortises?

No, you just have to have the same spacing and slots on each side of the joint, e.g., all tight, all loose, first tight--rest loose, etc.

For complicated jobs, such as a paneled door, I like all tight on one side, and then on the other side, one tight and the rest loose. This ensures alignment at the tight-slot end, and gives some play along the joint.  This requires pencil marks.  I draw a circle over the lines for the loose slots, which keeps me from having to think as I'm cutting the slots. 

If you decide to use tight on one side and loose on the other, I urge you to glue in the tight ones first, saving the loose ones for last.  Don't ask me how I know this.

If it's just a simple edge joint, not too long, all tight on both sides should work with the tabs/paddles and no pencil lines, if you're careful to use consistent sideways force for alignment.