Domino Titebond Glue Nozzles

R

Rockymount

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Joined
Jun 27, 2022
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Hi Everyone, Brand new to the forum, so apologies if someone has already posted about this. I did do a search but couldn't find the following specific content.

I've just watched a video by ExtremeWoodworker where he spent several months perfecting 3D Festool Domino Glue Nozzle prints for 5, 6, 8 and 10mm that fits the 16oz Titebond Glue Bottles and you can download FREE 3D STL Print Design (includes flushing adapter and storage tray). Unfortunately I don't have a 3D Printer, as if I did, I'd be printing the Nozzles off right now. Here's the link to the video with a link to STL files down in the pinned comments


Happy printing  [smile]
 
Don't see the video or a link. I tried with two browsers, MS-Edge and Google Chrome.
 
Hi Bob, Glad you found it  [smile]

Did try including the YouTube link but for some reason  didn't paste into my message? So i've typed it out in full below ;


Hopefully link to video now show's?

 
I'm obviously doing something wrong? Spent ages manually typing in link and it doesn't show. Must be a trick i'm missing ?
 
Rockymount said:
I'm obviously doing something wrong? Spent ages manually typing in link and it doesn't show. Must be a trick i'm missing ?
Click to expand...

Possibly because you're a new member or have a low post count. I seem to remember something about blocking links to stop spamming.
 
Thanks Gary guess I'll just have to wait a bit before i'm allowed to post links. If you type

YouTube Extremewoodworking domino nozzle

The video i've been trying to link to pops right up. It's 18 Minutes long so pretty comprehensive.

Pity about me not being able to post link's as saw another  brill video where a guy transforms the accuracy/operation of the Festool Carvex Jigsaw by removing a 3.5mm pin & replacing it with an M4 Sprung Ball bearing 10mm long grub screw.
 
I am printing out one now and going to try a ring gasket like this one from McMaster-Carr 5288T168.

I think it will fit in the cap without modification.
 
Rockymount said:
Thanks Gary guess I'll just have to wait a bit before i'm allowed to post links. If you type

YouTube Extremewoodworking domino nozzle

The video i've been trying to link to pops right up. It's 18 Minutes long so pretty comprehensive.

Pity about me not being able to post link's as saw another  brill video where a guy transforms the accuracy/operation of the Festool Carvex Jigsaw by removing a 3.5mm pin & replacing it with an M4 Sprung Ball bearing 10mm long grub screw.
Click to expand...

Try using the full URL (youtube.com) and not the shortened URL (youtu.be).
 
Rockymount said:
Thanks Gary guess I'll just have to wait a bit before i'm allowed to post links. If you type

YouTube Extremewoodworking domino nozzle

The video i've been trying to link to pops right up. It's 18 Minutes long so pretty comprehensive.

Pity about me not being able to post link's as saw another  brill video where a guy transforms the accuracy/operation of the Festool Carvex Jigsaw by removing a 3.5mm pin & replacing it with an M4 Sprung Ball bearing 10mm long grub screw.
Click to expand...

That was Bradshaw Joinery channel. There was a fairly long discussion about that one here recently.
 
I guess I am a little baffled why such a nozzle is needed. I have done many hundreds of Domino joints using a solder brush and smearing a little TB on the tenon. With a nozzle, I'd worry about getting too much glue in the mortise and blowing out the wood with hydraulic pressure.
 
Me too. I just give it a squirt, smear it with an acid brush or the paddle end of my silicone glue brush and move on. Too much glue is indeed a problem. I have overdone it before. With thinner materials, like sheet goods, it can come out through the sides and with big soild wood parts it can made assembly a problem. Having to clamp the last little bit with a big Bessey parallel clamp and glue squeezing out everywhere, is a pain.
 
IMO Dominos are for alignment, not to to glue parts together, so I usually do not bother putting glue in the mortises.

If the assembly is uncomplicated and it's convenient to add glue to the mortise or Domino I may but I'm mainly interested in getting a thin even coat of glue on the important (visible) joint.
 
I agree with not using glue on Dominos, I did the same with biscuits
before I switched to Dominos. I gave my biscuit joiner to my SIL.

I made a modified version of Steve's glue bottle cap. Mine will work on
any size bottle. Provided it works of course, I'm printing out the first test
piece now.

I used the upper portion of Steve's applicator and made a new lower
section that fits on the existing spout with the pull cap removed. You
snap it on in place of the OEM cap and apply your glue (if that's the way
you roll), then you can pop it off and replace the OEM cap.

You still need to clean it out and I have not made an adapter to connect
to a faucet of hose thread yet but that's possible. I'll see how difficult it
is to clean this once it's printed.
 

Attachments

  • Domino Glue Applicator v2.png
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Michael Kellough said:
IMO Dominos are for alignment, not to to glue parts together, so I usually do not bother putting glue in the mortises.

If the assembly is uncomplicated and it's convenient to add glue to the mortise or Domino I may but I'm mainly interested in getting a thin even coat of glue on the important (visible) joint.
Click to expand...
I can see that the glue on the tenon makes little difference for edge joining, but for something like a door where you have end grain to edge grain, the additional long glue surface of the domino should be beneficial.  Otherwise, why would you ever use a tenon at all even in a classic wood working joint?
 
Good point, I would use glue too for the extra glue area that avoids end grain but I also see this example from the other point of view. Suppose the glue disintegrated, the tenons would still keep the rails and stiles together, especially if pinned.
 
Funny story on me about not using glue.

I was glueing up a top for a dresser. Four pieces each 60" by 6". I used glue on the tenons for two halves making two 60" by 12" boards.

I wanted to verify the alignment before I glued the two halves together. Tenons were 12" apart. I put the two halves together with unglued tenons and tapped them together just enough to see I had excellent alignment. I then tried to separate the two halves. Not a chance! I decided that if they wanted to stay together that much, who was I to separate them.

I put on the big clamps and tightened them all the way.

I delivered the dresser Saturday and the top didn't have the slightest crack where the tenons were clueless. Probably never will.

BTW, I do use a smidgen of TB on tenons where I need strength. I've learned that a small smear of glue works a lot better than a glob.
 
Using any loose tenon joinery without glue is fine as long as the joint is not subject to undue stress or it's reinforced with other means. Otherwise, the joint won't stand the test of time, which may include wood movement.
 
Well my modified applicator fit except for one big boo-boo.

The hex needs to be rotated 30 degrees for it to fit. I didn't
take note of the orientation between the hex and the end of
the cap.

I only made a 6 mm applicator to test if this was possible.
I may make modified versions of the other sizes but not
right away.

Fifteen minutes later I had it fixed and new G-code generated.
Second try fits nicely on all bottles, not just the round ones
with the large cap. And I made a cap to cover the end while
you are working.

Still need to modify the cleaning tool but that shouldn't be difficult.
 
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