Dominofix in Canada

[gnlman]

Hi. Thinking of getting one of these jigs for drilling mft holes for a new bench I'm making. Been doing a bit of searching, but can't seem to find anyone selling these in Canada. I know toolnut has them, and will order from there, but was hoping for a source in Canada to avoid customs...ect.

Also considering parf system, or perhaps finally putting my LR32 to use....but the template idea seems much faster and looks pretty accurate.
thanks, Greg

 

[Mario Turcot]

DominoFix, I believe it's made in Finland. They will ship it to you and since it's under 200$ you should not have customs. Perhaps some GST if i'm not wrong. Someone on the forum order directly from them and said the shipping was not too bad.

Toolnuts, I tried to order some sandpaper when they were doing the obsolete sale and shipping outside of the US was not available. I might be wrong but that's the impression I have.

Keep in mind that you will have to find a router bit that fit your dogs.

If you already have the Parf Dogs I suggest to go with the Parf system, you will get everything you need. It's more expensive but woth it. It is available from Lee Valley as well.

 

[tallgrass]

I use the DOMINOFIX. I have CNC and still use the template. It is a great jig. I use the festool 20mm bit that they sell for making these holes. I have the 1400 and use the 30mm copy ring.it holds up wonderfully. Matching holes to your dogs is important. however match your copy ring to the template. not the other way around. You want a slip fit. So walk up on it slowly.

 

[gnlman]

Hey Mario. Thanks for the reply. Yes you are correct, it's made in Finland. Never thought of buying it from there, was trying to find a closer supplier....I think you are right, went on the Toolnut site and they don't seem to offer shipping to Canada.....thought I'd bought something there before, but might be confusing it with Rockler...I don't have any parf dogs, I have an MFT3 so I use the rail on it...I've modified it with some fence dogs I bought from a member here, and dumped the protractor as I had too many issues with square.The rest of my dogs are Qwas dogs which I've had for years...of all the dogs I've bought, Qwas dogs have always fit the best in my table.....I have looked at the Parf hole drilling system, and it looks good...just a little concerned about using a drill and the room for error if not drilled at 90 degrees....thinking plunging with a router might yield better results....do you have the ujk hole drilling jig?
I am still at the design stage of my table, and deciding what I'm going to store under it so have not made a decision yet, and will keep watching video on the ujk system..seems like so real good woodworkers are using it with success...and well lee valley sells it so easy to get....

Hi Tallgrass. thanks for your reply. Yes that jig looks very easy to use. I also have a OF1400, and already have the 20mm festool bit and a couple other from another table I built....great holes, but my method had errors...so this jig looks like the easiest and fastest method....I will have to buy the 30 mm copy ring, and read it's suggested to get a mandrel, but did you find the festool copy ring fit well in the jig? I thought the one video I watched mentioned slightly sanding the copy ring to get a better fit in the jig? I was also thinking of trying to find a way to use my lr32 to do this...did see a young guy on youtube do this, but don't think the size of table I'd like to build would work the way he did it with his mft3......

Thanks for the replies Gentleman.
Greg

 

[tallgrass]

I have CNC and the lr32 and the dominofix. So I am a little bit of a funky monkey. There are issues with the lr32 method. I have made it work for things like paulk work benches. The dominofix is so easy that I don't bother with the cnc. My copy ring was slightly over sized. Which is what you want. you have to be careful that you remove material evenly and slowly. I used 800 grit and then steel wool. It may be tempting to touch the jig. DON"T. The other point is make sure you have a backer to cut down on blow out. The best part is you can validate while you are going. It takes about 10 minutes to do a table. Not only that you can put them where ever you want and build out a pattern where ever. her a couple of picks. I cut my table tops into 3, which allows for drop in inserts, routers and such., also easy to move table without tops. Each to their own.

 

[tallgrass]

the tear out that you see was do to no backer when plunging. that is the bottom. the tops were perfect and perfect with backer

 

[JeromeM]

Hey Mario. Thanks for the reply. Yes you are correct, it's made in Finland. Never thought of buying it from there, was trying to find a closer supplier....I think you are right, went on the Toolnut site and they don't seem to offer shipping to Canada.....thought I'd bought something there before, but might be confusing it with Rockler...I don't have any parf dogs, I have an MFT3 so I use the rail on it...I've modified it with some fence dogs I bought from a member here, and dumped the protractor as I had too many issues with square.The rest of my dogs are Qwas dogs which I've had for years...of all the dogs I've bought, Qwas dogs have always fit the best in my table.....I have looked at the Parf hole drilling system, and it looks good...just a little concerned about using a drill and the room for error if not drilled at 90 degrees....thinking plunging with a router might yield better results....do you have the ujk hole drilling jig?
I am still at the design stage of my table, and deciding what I'm going to store under it so have not made a decision yet, and will keep watching video on the ujk system..seems like so real good woodworkers are using it with success...and well lee valley sells it so easy to get....

Hi Tallgrass. thanks for your reply. Yes that jig looks very easy to use. I also have a OF1400, and already have the 20mm festool bit and a couple other from another table I built....great holes, but my method had errors...so this jig looks like the easiest and fastest method....I will have to buy the 30 mm copy ring, and read it's suggested to get a mandrel, but did you find the festool copy ring fit well in the jig? I thought the one video I watched mentioned slightly sanding the copy ring to get a better fit in the jig? I was also thinking of trying to find a way to use my lr32 to do this...did see a young guy on youtube do this, but don't think the size of table I'd like to build would work the way he did it with his mft3......

Thanks for the replies Gentleman.
Greg

I used the LR32 system to build a template for my workbench and many other 20mm x 96mm items. This was posted almost exactly 10 years agohttp://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/20mm-hole-on-a-96mm-grid-system-(mft-top-style)/msg78004/#msg78004

It was certainly accurate enough. I also now have the Parf system and there is no problem with drilling acutely at 90 degrees using the included guide. It's great advantage is that as long as you drill the 3mm grid you can leave out 20mm holes and go back at any time and add any you need. You can also put just 1 row of holes if you need to (something that's difficult with any other system. It's disadvantage is that though superbly accurate it's slow.

I will have the Dominifix on the way soon from Wim Pauwels in Finland once he has finished making another batch, shipping to Thailand is €20.

This will be for things where I want the complete grid.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Tallgrass, I wish I could get some of that ply you use. I know people will say check on eBay but I hate paying the big buck for shipping.

Greg, yes I have the UJK Parf Guide. I haven't use it yet... waiting on the dust hood I ordered. I am also at the design stage of my Multi purpose mobile table/bench. I plan to use the Parf Guide to make a few interchangeable MFT tops. A standard one and a isometric top. Not sure if the DominoFix can be used to make the later. What you think [member=2242]tallgrass[/member] ?

Here a video Peter made for that top layout.
Peter

As for drilling the 3mm holes straight, the Parf Guide provide a guide that seems to do the job pretty well. Another thing I like from the Parf Guide is the ease to prevent tear out. You can set the peth of the dril to stop just before getting to the bottom and flip the top and finish them from the bottom.

 

[JeromeM]

I plan to use the Parf Guide to make a few interchangeable MFT tops. A standard one and a isometric top. Not sure if the DominoFix can be used to make the later. What you think [member=2242]tallgrass[/member] ?

Once you have the first two rows of holes it certainly can be used to do most (if not all) of the rest. You just need the offset rows drilled before using the Dominofix.

You can probably do some of the first rows as well if you plan it out.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Once you have the first two rows of holes it certainly can be used to do most (if not all) of the rest.

That's the trick here, with the isometric pattern you cannot drill a second row at the same distance. The second row have to be offset. I can't see how this is possible accurately with the DominoFix because on the second row you have no parallel reference. Perhaps I am incapable to vision it, hence why I asked tallgrass or anyone with some experience using the DominoFix.

 

[JeromeM]

Once you have the first two rows of holes it certainly can be used to do most (if not all) of the rest.

That's the trick here, with the isometric pattern you cannot drill a second row at the same distance. The second row have to be offset. I can't see how this is possible accurately with the DominoFix because on the second row you have no parallel reference. Perhaps I am incapable to vision it, hence why I asked tallgrass or anyone with some experience using the DominoFix.

No I was wrong and you are correct, I watched the video a month or more ago and had forgotten that it was on a 4 hole not 5 hole jig.

BTW there ar some cosmetic damage ones at the moment going for a great discount €55+ shipping

 

[gnlman]

Wow guys thanks for all the replies!

Well I ordered the Dominofix jig from Finland. I did see they had a blem version, and it was discounted quite a bit so that is the one I bought. If I could have purchased the jig over here I would have, it would be faster and easier for sure and I prefer to support NA businesses especially ones that support this site....

I already have the festool 20mm bit so just have to get the copy ring and mandrel. If I find it does not meet all my needs, I will also buy the parf system...after all I think I have 3 or 4 shelf pin jigs, why not a couple dog jigs...lol

Yes always use foam backing when I cut or drill. I use white panolam (melamine) for my shop cabinets it's pretty good stuff but you need sharp blades and backing to avoid chipout...it really does cut nice. I'm considering using laminate/arborite for my top..we'll see with this jig seems like it will be easy to just replace it if it gets damaged....

sometimeswoodworker....I have looked at your site a few times over the years when looking for ways to make the dog holes but for some reason never saw the picture link...now that I've looked at it, it is a very good idea?...I was thinking of it a bit differently though, and your method looks better/more accurate....I was thinking of drilling the 20 mm holes down both long sides of the top with lr32,and then using my Qwas rail dogs to move the rail along and drill the rest of the inside holes...not sure how accurate that would be, and if I remember the spacing would not be 96 mm.....your idea is much better...

I see the pins on the edge stop are just shy of 6mm, so assuming you used a 6 mm drill bit? Also, what did you set your edge stop scale to for the 96mm spacing. I realize you drilled 30 mm holes to use as a template, but would spacing be same setting on edge stop when drilling 20 mm holes? I really enjoyed looking at your projects, very nice stuff!

Tallgrass....thanks for your help in verifying the jig is accurate. Judging by your posts and pictures you know your stuff...My plan is to build a form of paulk work bench, but not portable, it will have a cabinet with drawers under it. I like the idea of being able to reach under the top like the mft3 for various reasons, and have an area to put drills/tools ect when at assembly time.
Yes never touch the jig...it costs more to screw up than the guide bushing...lol....did you find you had to sand the bushing very much, or is just spinning the bushing in your hand with a strip of fine sandpaper a few times work and finish with steel wool. Also, did you use the mandrel too?

Thanks so much you guys for all the help. I'll post some pics of the top once finished I get the bench done.

Greg

PS Mario, you still enjoying that new drill press smell...lol...hope it's still working great!!

 

[Mario Turcot]

PS Mario, you still enjoying that new drill press smell...lol...hope it's still working great!!

It is simply fantastic, not a single regret.

 

[JeromeM]

I already have the festool 20mm bit so just have to get the copy ring and mandrel. If I find it does not meet all my needs, I will also buy the parf system...after all I think I have 3 or 4 shelf pin jigs, why not a couple dog jigs...lol

I would suggest that the Peter Parfet designed system should be a buy now, not wait.
[attachimg=3]

Yes always use foam backing when I cut or drill. I use white panolam (melamine) for my shop cabinets it's pretty good stuff but you need sharp blades and backing to avoid chipout...it really does cut nice. I'm considering using laminate/arborite for my top..we'll see with this jig seems like it will be easy to just replace it if it gets damaged....

If you do that,
1) you may find that you may need replace your 20mm bit a little sooner, I guess that the laminate is quite abrasive.
2) you will need to chamfer or round over the holes as those edges will be sharp.
3) you will not easily have the advantage of using the top as a cutting surface unless you stop using a foam backing.
4) it will make a really nice looking top.

sometimeswoodworker....I have looked at your site a few times over the years when looking for ways to make the dog holes but for some reason never saw the picture link...

Which one? If you mean the 20mmx96mm Grid link then thanks for reminding me of that album I need to go back and add a few more things to it.

[attachimg=4]

now that I've looked at it, it is a very good idea?...I was thinking of it a bit differently though, and your method looks better/more accurate....I was thinking of drilling the 20 mm holes down both long sides of the top with lr32,and then using my Qwas rail dogs to move the rail along and drill the rest of the inside holes...not sure how accurate that would be, and if I remember the spacing would not be 96 mm.....your idea is much better...

I thought carefully before deciding on my method, I don't remember if the 3rd party dogs were available but even if they were it would have been a poor compromise. The grid would never have been perfect unless you made an over size top and cut off the alignment holes.

I see the pins on the edge stop are just shy of 6mm, so assuming you used a 6 mm drill bit?

No drill was used in making the template or worktop, it was all router and LR32 all the time, using Festool bits.
[attachimg=5]
However there is now a question you haven't asked. Would I make a template like that today? The answer would depend on my financial resources, time available and ability to get the current jigs and tools.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

For me I definitely would not remake the template. You have to be extremely precise and as you can see there are two rows where I made a mistake, your template really needs to be bigger than the size of finished pieces, you need to need to make a few before the time making the template is cost effective. With a CNC or access to a CNC you could make a smaller template (Dominofix) but with a CNC or access just make the tops!

I do not have the free time although I've just retired New house and workshop build this is why, unfortunately you will need to join the site (its free and non profit) to view all the pictures.

[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7][attachimg=8][attachimg=9]

Also, what did you set your edge stop scale to for the 96mm spacing.

I'm not clear what you mean by that question.

I realize you drilled 30 mm holes to use as a template, but would spacing be same setting on edge stop when drilling 20 mm holes?

Sure no change for any size of hole

I really enjoyed looking at your projects, very nice stuff!

Thanks it is always nice to hear that kind of comment SWMBO seldom thinks that those are interesting or good.

 

[gnlman]

Hi Sometimewoodworker.
Yes laminate would be hard on the bits...and perhaps not needed for my purpose...just something I've seen others do...I'm going to use a pretty good quality melamine....glue comes of pretty easy ect..
Yes that's what I meant, sorry should have mentioned it, it was the link (Grid 20mm x 96mm) to your template I was referring to.
It appears you used your lr32 to bore locator holes down both sides and then used the edge stops to move your rail down in 96mm increments and used the lr32 to cut your 30 mm holes...is that correct?
Yes I didn't mean drill bits, but router bits..I see the locator pins in the edge guides are 6mm, and by your pictures I see a 6mm bit is available from festool...thanks for the picture of the bit.
If the method is reliable, I don't think I'd make a template or at least to a full one like you did...perhaps 3 rows and you could use dogs to hold it in place and plunge...but that sounds like a Dominofix jig...lol
I suspect I will get the parf system at some point...I can see where it would be great for locating holes in a more random pattern, whereas the dominofix jig would be more limiting that way...for my purposes right now, I will be populating all the holes in a 4 foot by 6 foot top...or something close to that size so if the dominofix jig is accurate like everyone is saying it will be faster for now.

Hopefully I've made this a bit clearer as to my questions.. Happy Retirement (I'm close too) and once you get settled in new house hopefully you can spend more time in your shop...it's very nice as is your work.

Greg

 

[JeromeM]

Hi Greg

It appears you used your lr32 to bore locator holes down both sides and then used the edge stops to move your rail down in 96mm increments and used the lr32 to cut your 30 mm holes...is that correct?

Exactly

If the method is reliable, I don't think I'd make a template or at least to a full one like you did...perhaps 3 rows and you could use dogs to hold it in place and plunge...but that sounds like a Dominofix jig...lol

well yes it does sound exactly like the Dominofix MFT Router Jig however if you make a template that is a lot wider than the one which comes from Sweden maybe three holes deep and 6 or more wide you could put one roll of 20 mm holes for locating and use the other rows of 30 mm holes for locating the router bushing. With a template like that you would be able to make a work surface with some holes missing and put them in later.

Yes it would be similar to the MFT Router Jig but too big to send anywhere and would be complimentary to that jig not a sensible replacement.

if the dominofix jig is accurate like everyone is saying it will be faster for now.

Hopefully I've made this a bit clearer as to my questions.. Happy Retirement (I'm close too) and once you get settled in new house hopefully you can spend more time in your shop...it's very nice as is your work.

I'm currently spending most days there now as I'm busy fitting things into the new house. My next project now I've fitted the workshop door and after finalising the WoodRat mounting is to build a bed frame for the mattress we have. This may not be a big challenge as the WoodRat is superb at making sliding dovetails.