Don't own a saw and am asking about a bevel cut

[Gene Davis]

I want to cut cabinet parts to have a 22.5 degree edge bevel.  Tilt the saw 22.5, cut exactly along the part edge, see the pic.

Does the track edge go right up against the part edge, to make this cut?

 

[Birdhunter]

There are about a jillion posts on trying to get accurate bevel cuts with a track saw. Very few successes. If you have access to a really good table saw, it’s a easy thing to do.

 

[Michael Kellough]

“ Does the track edge go right up against the part edge, to make this cut?‘

It does if you use the Festool 55 saws.

Set the edge guard a little short of the edge if you use the Festool 75 saw or the Mafell saws.

 

[Gene Davis]

Here is the situation.  Cabinet carcase parts, all cut on CNC, come to the jobsite, and assembly is done there.  It is not a shop environment with a tablesaw.  There might be a portable tablesaw, but you know those aren't right for this. 

See the pic.  Lazy susan corner cabs have three piece backs that meet to form the 45 chop rear corner.  22 point 5 bevels needed to be cut because the CNC guy says he wants a fat upcharge to get the tool and do the programming to bevel on the CNC table.

So we have a 55, and need to make the cuts.

 

[Packard]

Easy peasy.  You just need a straight edge and a 22.5 degree router bit.  Whiteside is a good choice as is Freud.

 

[Gene Davis]

But isn't it supposed to be this easy?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

There is an alternative to this which takes a lot less "fitting". Doing it the way shown means 4 bevels and the exact length is required to make it all fit together. In the shop this is do-able, but time consuming. Trying it in the field? Plus joining the beveled 45s together, how?

The simple solution is to cut 45 degree bevels on both sides of the center piece only. It is easy to measure and get right, because the width is exactly the same as the flat back section of the cabinet.
Then you run the "sides" longer, allowing them to go past that long point. You don't need the "pretty" look of the "proper mitered" corners on the outside. It only needs to look correct on the inside. Once installed, the countertop covers this all up anyway, and no one would ever know seeing it from inside the cabinet.
Since you already know the length of that back angled section, you could cut the 45 degree bevels on all of those center back parts while still in the shop, and still do the assembly on-site.