Doorway code question

Kodi Crescent

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Aug 6, 2010
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Hi.  I have a code question regarding door opening widths.

I'm remodeling a bathroom in an attic.  Due to the size of the bathroom, things are very tight, with minimal leeway for errors and the movement and resizing of items.  The original bathroom had a 24" inswinging door.  When the door was opened, it would open partway, and then hit the slope of the ceiling (cathedral ceiling due to being at the edge of the attic.)  This was very annoying, and it damaged the ceiling.

I've removed the door, modified the framing, and installed the hardware for a pocket door.  I'd like to use the original six panel door (which measures 23.75"), or cut down a larger six panel door (26") to fit if necessary.  I don't think I can get a 28" door in.  As part of the pocket door installation, at least how I understand it, when the door is closed there needs to be a small amount of the door inside the split jamb to prevent the door from swinging back and forth in the opening.

My question is in regards to the minimum width code.  In some places, I've seen that there is a 24" minimum width code requirement.  In other places, I see 28" or 32" width.  The original door was 24".  Another bathroom door in my house (original door) is 24".  Is the 24" minimum width allowed in the building code?

And on another note, if I were to install the original door, once I add the split jamb the opening will be closer to 23".  Do the inspectors measure from jamb to jamb for the opening width?  If so, I'd have to get a wider door (26") and cut it down.  I have an inch or so of leeway in my current setup, but I'd like to get further advice before I search out a larger door and make other modifications.

Any advice is helpful!

Thanks!

 
I can't really help, as I'm in the UK and don't know about US regulations.

However, in the UK, in such a situation I'm pretty sure this would be regarded as an existing structure (you say you're remodelling) and as such exempt from such regulations. 

So just as a matter of interest I'd be curious to know the answer to this.
 
A good source for an answer is to give a call to your local municipality and talk to someone in the building department.

Mike A.
 
A question like this needs the exact location of the job. AHJ's often amend the uniform codes. As noted above, call your AHJ. You may find the rule applies to one bathroom but none of the additional. If your AHJ has adopted or written and accessibility code that is what would apply.

Tom
 
You could just add the thickness of the frame to the back edge of the door it won't notice when the door is shut and the opening will stay the same 
 
That's a possibility as well.  But my door wasn't 24" to begin with, so I'll have this very odd textured door section, and then the non-textured 1/4" or so to get the minimum.

 
I didn't want to call the city because I haven't permitted anything yet.  But I did call, and luckily reached someone.  For my situation I need a minimum of 24" jamb-to-jamb opening.  It looks like I'll be buying that 26" door and cutting it down after all.

 
Use the door you have. Add 3/8" door stop to the jamb to make up the 1/4". The measurement is jamb to jamb, not jamb to stop, just like any other door.

Same happens with stairs, width is wall to wall not to railing or trim stringer.

Tom
 
If your present door has a beveled edge, you may end up having to cut it square for use as a pocket door.  You could them glue a strip on the edge to bring it to the right width.

Mike A.
 
If your existing door was 24" then you can put a 24" door in. Nobody will force you install a bigger door. I'm a GC. in New Jersey inspector won't measure by 1/8 of an inch. I hope it helps.
 
My wife's office is in what was attic space when we moved in.  There was a "cedar closet" of chipped cedar panels.  Very crude.  Plywood subfloor, exposed insulation, etc.. We had a contractor add a large dormer for more headroom and it is a pretty nice space.  But there is about an 8 foot hallway part that is a little over 8 feet where the doorway is and slopes down to 3 feet at a 10 in 12 pitch.  The door is old fir - difficult to match.  The previous owner took out almost 100% of a roof rafter so the door would open.  I bridged the huge notch with a new rafter and cut the corner off the door.  Works fine.  I tacked the cut off piece in the doorway.  It's not hard to see what is happening looking at it but a casual glance will not notice the door is unusual.
 
I was a Building Inspector for over 15 years, 24" doorway  was the minimum in three of Codes that I had inforced. As for would your Inspector notice the difference, probably not. If they do they would most likely work with you on this issue. I know that I would have and did on many occasions. Hopefully your Inspector is not a school trained Inspector, but one that learned by doing. Good luck with your project.       
 
As a matter of interest.
Are codes pretty standard in NA, regarding internal structures like access width through pocket doors or does each state have their own set of codes.
I would imagine that major structure codes would change from state to state, depending on different weather and environment conditions but just wondering regarding door widths and that. As down here each state has its own code regarding pocket doors.
 
Locks14 said:
I can't really help, as I'm in the UK and don't know about US regulations.

However, in the UK, in such a situation I'm pretty sure this would be regarded as an existing structure (you say you're remodelling) and as such exempt from such regulations. 

So just as a matter of interest I'd be curious to know the answer to this.
According to the planning portal web page about internal walls it says:
Building Regulations

If you wish to build a new internal wall, remove an internal wall, or form an opening in an internal wall, building regulations will normally apply.

I interpret it as being Whilst you might not need planning consent you are required to follow building regulations.
 
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