Dormer window

tiralie

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Jan 26, 2010
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So, I have to fix the trim around this window of this "100 year old Cape cod" style home.

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The home owner has re-shingled but as you can see there is no flashing where the dormer and roof line meet so I will be fixing that along with the trim. Once I lift the existing trim and side panel I will be able to tell what else is required.

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Here's  a better look at another window and the rot in the end grain of the trim

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Comments and questions are welcome.
Tim
 

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This (and the other dormer) sure look like a perfect opportunity to apply PVC trim board, along with appropriate flashing and some good caulk. 

 
A great example of lack of planning, obviously this trim work was bad before the re-shingling.  This job was probably done by a crew that only roofs.
 
Sparktrician said:
This (and the other dormer) sure look like a perfect opportunity to apply PVC trim board, along with appropriate flashing and some good caulk. 

There are six windows in total and they all are in various stages of deterioration. Hopefully I find that everything is ok under the trim but that might be a stretch. I am only doing one window so the client has an idea of the overall cost.
This home was recently purchased and the listing price was 1.15 million dollars.
Tim
 
rst said:
A great example of lack of planning, obviously this trim work was bad before the re-shingling.   This job was probably done by a crew that only roofs.

Ya, the guys who put the new windows in told the home owner they would fix the trim and then backed out. The roofing crew should have flashed and maybe they did but I am not holding out too much hope.

Here's a closeup of the dormer side and the shingles. Does't look like anything is in there... hard to tell.

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If you're going to use plastic. Spray your tools and yourself with Static Guard.

Tom
 
Tim, I've done numerous dormer repairs like this so I know how tough they can be.  How high off the ground is this dormer and what kind of setup are you planning to use?  Setup is going to be hard and the mansard roof isn't helping.  I've used scaffold set up to just under the height of the window with a short cantilevered platform on the top that stuck out until just about touch the roof.  This allowed us to work on the sides with short ladders and step ladder to reach all the to the peak of the face.  Since you're only doing one for now renting scaffold might be too pricey.  

I can't see how there can be flashing, surely you'd be able to tell if the roofers disassembled trim to tuck flashing in. Around here, and I'm sure it's the same up there, is how little framing there generally is behind the trim, especially on the face.  The old growth 4/4 or 5/4 trim had no problem holding itself together with little or no framing.  That doesn't work out well for replacing it with pvc....  Anyhow, good luck and let us know how this turns out.      
 
Brice Burrell said:
I've used scaffold set up to just under the height of the window with a short cantilevered platform on the top that stuck out until just about touch the roof.  This allowed us to work on the sides with short ladders and step ladder to reach all the to the peak of the face.  
I am working off a scaffold. I did forget to order the brackets for the cantilever. Thanks for the reminder.

Brice Burrell said:
Since you're only doing one for now renting scaffold might be too pricey.  

I hate working off ladders. It's not worth hurting myself for this project.

Brice Burrell said:
I can't see how there can be flashing, surely you'd be able to tell if the roofers disassembled trim to tuck flashing in. Around here, and I'm sure it's the same up there, is how little framing there generally is behind the trim, especially on the face.  The old growth 4/4 or 5/4 trim had no problem holding itself together with little or no framing.  That doesn't work out well for replacing it with pvc....  Anyhow, good luck and let us know how this turns out.      

Lack of framing/sheeting is my concern. The customer will be getting an up charge if that is the case. I will be replacing the old growth with Miratec/waterproof MDF, although I don't really like the look of the dormer siding.

Thanks for your comments.
I will post an update as soon as I can.
Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Sparktrician said:
This (and the other dormer) sure look like a perfect opportunity to apply PVC trim board, along with appropriate flashing and some good caulk. 

There are six windows in total and they all are in various stages of deterioration. Hopefully I find that everything is ok under the trim but that might be a stretch. I am only doing one window so the client has an idea of the overall cost.
This home was recently purchased and the listing price was 1.15 million dollars.
Tim

Holy mudfish Mackerel!!! Hope he didn't pay the listed price.  [eek] must be some great location.
 
Miratec is an exterior MDF product, but I wouldn't call it waterproof like PVC.  I have seen Miratec swell and fail, but some poor flashing details contributed to the problem.  I'm not trying to restart the great exterior trim debate, just adding a clarifying point. 

I'm curious about the shingles.  Sure a mansard roof is steep, but aren't those stained shingles meant more for sidewalls than roofing?

I hope you get skies as blue and clear as in your pictures for this project. 
 
Colonel Panic said:
Tim Raleigh said:
Sparktrician said:
This (and the other dormer) sure look like a perfect opportunity to apply PVC trim board, along with appropriate flashing and some good caulk. 

This home was recently purchased and the listing price was 1.15 million dollars.
Tim

Holy mudfish Mackerel!!! Hope he didn't pay the listed price.  [eek] must be some great location.

The house is located very close to the lake (Ontario) and a park. Not sure what it sold for but I would guess 900K.
 
w802h said:
Miratec is an exterior MDF product, but I wouldn't call it waterproof like PVC.  I have seen Miratec swell and fail, but some poor flashing details contributed to the problem. 
I might use something else. I am not crazy about PVC for this application. PVC expands and contracts a fair amount.

w802h said:
I'm curious about the shingles.  Sure a mansard roof is steep, but aren't those stained shingles meant more for sidewalls than roofing?

I don't know anything about roofing. Maybe someone who does can comment.

w802h said:
I hope you get skies as blue and clear as in your pictures for this project. 

Thanks, it has been nice here lately.
Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
w802h said:
I'm curious about the shingles.  Sure a mansard roof is steep, but aren't those stained shingles meant more for sidewalls than roofing?

I don't know anything about roofing. Maybe someone who does can comment.

Those look to me like traditional cedar shingles/shakes. Nothing wrong with them for a roof except 1) they're expensive, and 2) they burn REALLY well!
 
I second Boral. Flyash and a polymer. Will not absorb water. Will not move in temperature change like plastic, 1x and 5/4x plus moldings. 16' long. MARK
 
I suggested Boral in another thread. They're a little apprehensive about using it.

Tim, use Boral, I wouldn't steer you wrong, the shady guy in the Post Base thread----maybe----but not you.

Tom
 
I've never used Boral and am very curious about it, since it sounds bombproof.  A friend of mine said it didn't hold screws well.  How would you best fashion a corner board or assembled window trim package out of Boral?  Can you domino/biscuit it?  Any working tips? 
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
Use Boral.
jmarkflesher said:
I second Boral. Flyash and a polymer. Will not absorb water. Will not move in temperature change like plastic, 1x and 5/4x plus moldings. 16' long. MARK
tjbnwi said:
Tim, use Boral, I wouldn't steer you wrong, the shady guy in the Post Base thread----maybe----but not you.

Thanks for the suggestion, Tom, JMarkFlesher and Warner.
I would use it (I don't like PVC for this application) but I can't find it anywhere here. I didn't have time to call them today but I will followup to see if they have any distributors.

Tim
 
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