DOUBLE-WIDE SYSPORT/CMS STORAGE.
- Thread starter jiggyman
- Start date
Northernlight
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- Dec 26, 2013
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- 69
Double wide sysport. Sounds like a great idea.
jimmylittle
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- Dec 7, 2013
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- 114
I totally agree. I've built a version of a double wide Sysport myself. I find it much more convenient, and saves space and money. Keeping similar Systainers on the same tray (say, the Domino and the Dominos) lets me open one tray and get to work!
Love all the great ideas in these forums!
(After posting, I realized this is an older picture- one of the drawer glides is missing the screws and looks wonky. It's all assembled now, and full of Systainers!)
Love all the great ideas in these forums!
(After posting, I realized this is an older picture- one of the drawer glides is missing the screws and looks wonky. It's all assembled now, and full of Systainers!)
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jimmylittle
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- Dec 7, 2013
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I use the pegboard on the ends of a lot of my rolling units. It adds the strength (almost) of ¼" plywood, but allows me to attach things. I have hooks for vacuum hoses, my pocket hole jig, bench broom, my short straightedges, a couple of extra saw blades, etc. I also have made parts bins that clip to the pegboard so I can keep the screws/Dominos/whatever handy when working.
I just like it because options are never bad!
I just like it because options are never bad!
Jeff Zanin
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- Jan 2, 2009
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- 328
I like the double-wide idea, it helps keep things together and saves a bit on hardware. A couple of questions if you don't mind:
Jeff
- Are there any problems with tipping when the systainer shelves are extended?
- The construction looks like end frames made of 1x4 or similar – is the pegboard in a rabbet on the back of the frame?
- In the photo it appears there is no back on the unit on the left. Is this the finished product or a work in progress?
- If there is no back on the finished product how do you prevent it from racking?
Jeff
Timtool
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- Mar 13, 2011
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I also have a double width systainer port in my workshop, mainly because i wanted to save on materials and hardware.
And some tools are best kept together like the domino 500 and domino sys.
But in your case i think it is a shame that you didn't make the top at workbench height, your room appears cramped and you could have used them as a work top as well?
I also fear about tipping danger as Jeff brought up, if one drawer is opened and you give the unit an accidental push, when the other drawers start moving out there will be no stopping it.
And some tools are best kept together like the domino 500 and domino sys.
But in your case i think it is a shame that you didn't make the top at workbench height, your room appears cramped and you could have used them as a work top as well?
I also fear about tipping danger as Jeff brought up, if one drawer is opened and you give the unit an accidental push, when the other drawers start moving out there will be no stopping it.
jimmylittle
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- Dec 7, 2013
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- 114
The end panels are 1x3 frames Domino'd together with the pegboard in a ¼" centered dado, much like a Shaker-style cabinet door.
The bottom and top are ½" birch ply. The back is ¼" birch rabbeted in.
I made the units 18" deep for a couple of reasons. First, I was worried if I made the unit as deep as a Systainer, it would be too narrow to be stable. Second, I had a bunch of 18" drawer glides laying around, but they were only three-quarter extension glides so they only came out about 15-16 inches. The Systainers need about that much to open the lid without taking it off the tray, so happy coincidence.
The trays are just ½" birch ply with a 1x2 front edge, and a notch cut out of the back. Using 18" glides leaves a 4" hole behind the Systainer, so I notched each tray in a big U-shape to leave space behind the drawers. There is a ½" x ¾" lip that keeps the Systainers aligned to the front of the drawer. The tops have 3 slots near the back edge so I can slide in 4' levels, guide rails, and thin stuff like that. All of the trays are notched so the guide rails can slide all the way to the bottom.
I spaced the drawers a little further than necessary so that I can close the drawers without locking the TLOC. I'm lazy that way.
If I were to build it again, I'd probably use ¾" ply for the top and bottom. I haven't had any sagging issues, and I used the ½" because I had a bunch of offcuts from another job, so they were basically free.
The bottom and top are ½" birch ply. The back is ¼" birch rabbeted in.
I made the units 18" deep for a couple of reasons. First, I was worried if I made the unit as deep as a Systainer, it would be too narrow to be stable. Second, I had a bunch of 18" drawer glides laying around, but they were only three-quarter extension glides so they only came out about 15-16 inches. The Systainers need about that much to open the lid without taking it off the tray, so happy coincidence.
The trays are just ½" birch ply with a 1x2 front edge, and a notch cut out of the back. Using 18" glides leaves a 4" hole behind the Systainer, so I notched each tray in a big U-shape to leave space behind the drawers. There is a ½" x ¾" lip that keeps the Systainers aligned to the front of the drawer. The tops have 3 slots near the back edge so I can slide in 4' levels, guide rails, and thin stuff like that. All of the trays are notched so the guide rails can slide all the way to the bottom.
I spaced the drawers a little further than necessary so that I can close the drawers without locking the TLOC. I'm lazy that way.
If I were to build it again, I'd probably use ¾" ply for the top and bottom. I haven't had any sagging issues, and I used the ½" because I had a bunch of offcuts from another job, so they were basically free.
