Drawer Bottoms

[Tinker]

This may cause the true craftsmen to shudder, but for shop drawers I use 3/4" birch ply for both sides and bottoms, and pocket screws to hold them together. Reason being is I have a lot of machine tools and the contents of a 4" drawer can end up weighing 50-60#'s. The deeper drawers ~12" hold power tools, a small anvil, vises, arbor press, etc. & still no issues with weight.

I just flush the bottom with the lower edge of the sides and pocket screw into them. No need for dadoes, everything is a butt joint.

Assuming 24" cabinets you can get ~4 drawers worth of material from a sheet, so each one costs around $10-12. I guess it is a mite crude but they are bulletproof and fast to construct.

RMW 

Since i don't consider myself a true craftsman (WW type that is), I like your idea.  I don't need to support as much weight in drawers as you, so maybe 1/2" AC ply wood work for me.  I have not tried pocket joinery with 1/2 to 1/2 yet, but have done some 1/2 to 3/4 joints. I am getting geared up to do a coulple of tool shelve/drawers as soon as i get thru my annual tax stuff (biz taxes and then a short breather before getting into the horror types of taxes.

Tinker

 

[Scorpion]

my only concern, assuming these are the same drawers you mentioned in http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/number-of-dominos-for-deep-drawer/ , would be that you'd be tempted to load a 10" drawer past the 1/4" hardboard's capacity...

It's easy to do and the primary reason I just went with 1/2-inch ply bottoms in all my drawers.  Add a pair of 100lb slides and you'll never need to worry about capacity

 

[JimD]

My shop drawers are even cruder.  Front, back and sides are 3/4 (really 18mm) BCX plywood.  Bottoms on all but the smallest are 7/16 waferboard.  Strong but cheap.  I cut a rabbet in the front and just overlay the sides and back.  Glue and brads hold it on.  I did splurge a little and bought some 1 1/2 wooden knobs off an ebay seller.  About $10 for 25.  I used 3/16 luan plywood for a few of the smallest drawers.  It's nicer and saves a bit of space.  (drawer boxes are pocket screwed together)

For nicer drawers (furniture, kitchen cabinets), I like to use 1/2 Baltic birch and dovetail all 4 joints.  Bottoms of smaller drawers for lighter stuff are 1/4 BB and big ones get 1/2 Baltic birch.  Both types of bottoms in dados.  I also built some of my shop drawers this way, when I had more time.

 

[grbmds]

Recently I made some more drawers for storage and used half blind dovetail joints just for the practice with my Incra table. However, I didn't really think this through completely. The dovetail joints turned out great, but I'm not quite sure what to do with the bottoms. I used pocket holes on the first set I made and dominos on the second set, both of which were no problem to cut a 1/4" dado along all 4 sides and it doesn't show. However, with the dovetails it would. I don't really care much about looks so I could do something simple since the dovetails were just for practice anyway. I've thought of a few options, but would like to hear what would be best, easiest, and not show any dadoes on the sides.

 

[fshanno]

Has anyone used 1/4" hardboard (Masonite?) for drawer bottoms. These drawers are for workshop benches, not quality furniture. It seemed like I could save a little money over using 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood.

You mean like this?

[attachthumb=1]

I had it left over from another project so I used it.  The drawer you see is 24" wide. 

 

[Claimdude]

My default drawer bottoms are 1/2" Birch from the big box store. Never have to worry about weight being a problem.

Jack

 

[Neal W]

I recently just used 1/4" underlayment (that is what the shelf tag at the box store said).  It has a pretty grain pattern on one side. 

I also used It for door panels for my garage cabinets.  Used it for the cabinet backs.  In expensive and seems relatively durable.

 

[Billedis]

[member=19734]grbmds[/member] I used stopped dados.  Takes a little work, but presents a finished look.  Bill

 

[grbmds]

[member=19734]grbmds[/member] I used stopped dados.  Takes a little work, but presents a finished look.  Bill

Done with a router I assume?

 

[Billedis]

yes, I use a router, and then sometimes have to chisel the corners.  Bill

 

[#Tee]

8mm carbon fiber

 

[grbmds]

8mm carbon fiber

What is carbon fiber?

 

[polarsea1]

8mm carbon fiber

What is carbon fiber?

It's made from recycled motorcycle fenders and bicycle forks. ;D

For smallish drawers I use 1/4" melamine coated mdf.

 

[JimD]

When using half blind dovetails I cut a 1/4 dado in all 4 sides, unless I rip the back down so the bottom is replaceable.  The dado goes into the last full pin in a side and the same recess on the front and back.  It doesn't show. 

 

[tjbnwi]

8mm carbon fiber

What is carbon fiber?

Very strong.

Tom

 

[socaljohn]

8mm carbon fiber

What is carbon fiber?

Very strong.

Tom

Very Toxic!

 

[grbmds]

When using half blind dovetails I cut a 1/4 dado in all 4 sides, unless I rip the back down so the bottom is replaceable.  The dado goes into the last full pin in a side and the same recess on the front and back.  It doesn't show.

Yeah, I figured that out when I finally got around to actually cutting the dado. You just have to make sure the doesn't go into the pin. I tried on a scrap piece first and found out that it doesn't show.