Dream Shop - Help Me Spend My Money and Design My Shop

Thanks for all the help.  Uncle Joe ask for my skill level, so I attached some pics.

The first is the work bench I made as a teenager 30 yrs ago with my Craftsman table saw.  I still have it today and am replacing the worn out casters this week.  I mostly us it as an out feed table.

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My Grandmother, rest her soul, gave me money at about age 22 to buy tools.  I bought a ShopSmith and made a roll top desk which unfortunately I gave to my x-mother-in-law.

My third project was an executive desk I saw in an ad and really liked.  It is currently in storage, but the credenza is still used daily at my office.  Here is the pic.  Solid Black Walnut.

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This is a close up of the glued up top.  It is separating in one place.  TOO BAD I did not have a Domino back then.

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Nice work!  I am guessing you are sandbagging us a bit with the " I only have two tools" comment.

I am sure it is already on your list, but a good dust collection is a must if you want to have an environment that is conducive to hanging out and making stuff. I would recommend getting a large cyclone.  You already have experienced the Minimax quality, so maybe consider a FS30.  Once you have the core machines then add your drill press, bandsaw, edge and disk sanders.  With a quality slider I would not put too much emphasis on your SCMS, any decent 10-12" one will do.  

Of course you could spend twice the money on a bunch of Festool goodies, but in the end you would probably decide you need/ want larger fixed machines anyways and have to re-organize your entire shop to accommodate them ( ask me how I know this).  I would recommend starting with the big real-estate items, organizing your shop ( and DC around them) then add Festools as you need them for specific projects.  Plan your storage to accommodate sustainers if you like using them (16" wide shelves/drawers).  While you could get some MFT/3's you could make a much more functional stationary bench that has the same elements for less(check out the Ultimate workbench).  Festools were designed for the onsite carpenter, and while many are amazing workshop tools there are other ways to achieve the same results more efficiently.  
 
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]
 
Doc,

I'm sure you'll receive plenty of solid advice from members here regarding your tool purchases, so I won't add my .02. However, I saw that your project list includes a secret room with hinged bookshelf. I've done a couple of these and they can be challenging. Not too long ago Gary Katz published an article in his on-line magazine, "This Is Carpentry" focusing on such a project. It would be worth your time to read the article before you get too far into that project. Lots of good tips. Have fun putting your shop together. Plan, and then plan some more.

TC
 
wooddoctor,

    Not sure if anyone suggested a router table.  But may I suggest a  INCRA router table.  The fence is IMO the best in the market.  Add a adjustable lift for bit
change above the table.  Get the casters for mobility.  The Incra frame is 80/20 aluminum, which will let you customize it and build doors and drawers for
storage.  Check out Youtube for some videos.  You can also get the Incra fence system for your table saw.  With the ability to micro adjust the Incra fences to
within 1/1ooth of an inch !    Anyway,  Incra is a great company and worth checking out. 

Nice work on the projects you have shared.  Have fun searching for and buying your dream shop!

Share some pics of the "honey do list" as the project progress.

Eric
 
Wooddoctor-
The credenza is gorgeous.  I would take the top off now if I were you, split it, domino it and refinish it.
Very Impressive.
It looks like much of the work on you list is in sheet goods......A TS55, Dust collector and MFT with accessories would be a great way to start off and give you the most flexibility.  Upgrade your rail on the TS to the long LR32, buy another long LR32 and some rail connectors, and you will be easily capable of doing almost anything you want to sheets.

You'll need to pick a sander- the 150 / 3 is good for cabinate type projects- but you could decide to go rotex....
My next purchases would be a 1400 router, much more versatile than a 1010 in my opinion. One of the festool drills, and then maybe the LR32 hole drilling stuff.  For now, you can drill shelf holes with a hand drill and for 20$ buy a 4x8 piece of pegboard and rip it into "guide strips / jigs" for shelf pin drilling. (if cost is an issue)
Nice work
Jay
 
with a sliding table saw, I really don't see the need for a ts55/75. It's so easy to cut down size sheet goods with one.
 
Kev said:
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]
I agree with all this except for the ipad
 
GhostFist said:
Kev said:
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]
I agree with all this except for the ipad

Have another beer ... Relax, enjoy your abacus, parchment and quill !
 
zapdafish said:
with a sliding table saw, I really don't see the need for a ts55/75. It's so easy to cut down size sheet goods with one.
Cutting down might be easy, but getting sheet goods up on to the table isn't. Start lifting full 20mm MDF sheets around and you will soon find the benefits of a TS55 over any table saw.
 
Kev said:
GhostFist said:
Kev said:
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]
I agree with all this except for the ipad

Have another beer ... Relax, enjoy your abacus, parchment and quill !
You mean my functioning non over hyped devices, but cheers anyways
 
Wood Doctor, our OP, has told us he has a generous amount of space in his "Man Cave" which he describes as being 38' x 30' divided by a center wall into two spaces 38' x 15' I interpret this to mean the working space is at grade level with a double car garage door as access to receive lumber and plywood as well as move out finished cabinets. What is less clear is the amount of available electrical power.

To be sure, not all cabinets are built in the same way. Since the end of WWII the cases for a high percentage of cabinets have been made from plywood or another type of sheet goods. Traditionally face frames were made of solid lumber, but an increasing percentage of cabinets are frameless. Cabinet doors and drawer fronts can be built in many ways, some of which involve gluing-up jointed and planed planks.

From the beautiful photos shared by Wood Doctor he has a lot of talent and experience. He also is willing to maintain his equipment.

My first concern is that the space is divided into long narrow rooms, which could well frustrate movement of materials in this shop. For example, where will the uncut sheet material be stored prior to being broken down? Stored flat a stack of 4x8' sheets eats up a lot of floor space.

Not all sliding table saws are equal. Even the largest and most powerful sliding table saws, such as the Felder Kappa 550 E-motion I own, can be inconvenient for a person working alone when breaking down full sheets. In addition to the saw itself, even with the slide you still need in-feed and out-feed support. Like any table saw to rip an 8' long sheet you need about 20' in line with the blade. To cross-cut you need some working room beyond the rip fence and at least 8' on the other side of the blade, or a total of 12+ feet wide by 20+ feet long. All by itself a cabinet-style sliding table saw will use nearly all the space in one of those 15' x 38' rooms.

Jointers and thickness planers can also eat up a lot of space. It is really frustrating to need to join and plane 12' long stock without good in and out feed support in a space over 24' long. Yes, it is entirely possible to buy and use combination machines which convert from jointer to planer. The problem is that hardly ever, in the real world, is it practical to join a stack of lumber prior to converting the machine to planer mode. Normally it makes better sense to smooth one side of a plank using a wide jointer and then run that same plank through a thickness planer to bring it to almost the desired thickness. After that normally the plank would be turned on one edge so that can be rendered smooth and at the desired angle relative to the two smooth faces. Perhaps then the still rough side of the plank will be run through a saw to rip it to almost the desired width. Now that plank need to be stored for several hours before being planed to final desired thickness and the ripped edge of the plank joined. Imagine how much less frustrating those operations are when the table saw, jointer and planer are all set up and ready to use side by side?

Traditionally sheet material is not processed on a jointer. So most of the time what is needed is a "glue-ready" edge. Obtaining such a glue-ready edge with a manually fed table saw is hardly a sure thing, even aided by a sliding table. Remember the material between the blade and the rip fence is not on the slider, so it can be scratched by the table. This is why the pressure beam saws were invented. The sheet is moved into position on an air table. Then the air is turned off and the pressure beams on each side of the blade clamp the material. Only then is the blade moved through the material from below. Normally beam saws have a scoring unit, but that is controlled by the same CNC commands as all the other aspects of the cut. The downside is that pressure beam saws to not have tilting blades and they are not intended for miter cuts.

So, how does a hand pushed track saw, such as a Festool TSxx, compare? I like to think of my very large beam saw as a Festool TSxx on steroids and upside down, with four guide rails and splinter guards all clamped together very tightly to reduce tear-out. A downside to my Holzma 14' beam saw is that it needs a 25' x 25' dedicated space, uses a lot of 480v 3 phase power and cost more than 125 TS55s with 5000mm rails. And, although it makes marvelous glue-ready cuts, none of those can be bevels. Beam saws only do right angles in all directions.

My shop is built around a big CNC nested router, the large beam saw and the large Kappa 550 CNC sliding table saw. Still, near all of those is my 18' x 4' cutting table where I use TS55s and guide rails ranging from 1400mm to 5000mm to perform all those cuts which are inconvenient and inefficient to make on the slider saw and impossible to make on the beam saw. I find that I save so much time using the beam saw for the 90+ percent of cuts of sheet material it can do that I can afford the time to make those pesky 10% of cabinet parts involving miters and/or bevels.

Unfortunately to provide room to actually use all those machines, as well as the router tables, shaper, jointer, thickness planer, horizontal resaw band saw and other machines, along with room to store enough raw material, assemble the cabinets and store them until shipment, my shop has a manufacturing space 66' x 210' clear span, plus another 5000 square feet of additional smaller rooms for offices, parts and tool storage, the CAD department and so on.

Thus, when we compare the use of guide rails and a TS55 to any kind of sliding table saw we need to consider the shape of the available space, the volume of work and electricity. I would not care to make the number of cabinets I produce with a staff of 6 cabinet makers and another 6 employees in a smaller space. I cannot conceive of justifying so much space to build personal projects. I have used many brands and styles of sliding table saws for almost 50 years, and yet I have never felt comfortable using such a saw without the help of another person.

Before I had my large shop I built thousands of cabinets by myself using TS55s on guide rails but then each of my work rooms was only 18' wide by 36' long. So, the size of the work shop is a big factor in selection of machines and methods.

Oh yes, part of the extra 5000 square feet in my facility is a kitchen and a place to relax. We have 3 ADA compliant rest rooms, two with showers, because after building cabinets we need to wash up. Unfortunately because of the narrow minds of the insurance agents we cannot stock beer in my building.

 
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Kevin Stricker said:
I am guessing you are sandbagging us a bit with the " I only have two tools" comment.

I guess Kevin's comment did not sit so well, so I thought I would take a minute to clarify the "how many tools I have" issue.  When I made the workbench 30 years ago, I had a table saw, and an ol'timer guy, for some reason, started mentoring me by coaching me through the building of the workbench.  He had a router table for the plywood drawer fronts (back relief quarter round).  The frame is 2x4s for strength with a birch plywood over that for looks.

The credenza shown was made with the same table saw and a ShopSmith.  So I had a shaper and drill press built in, but those raised panels were made on the table saw with the blade on an angle with the wood standing upright. 

I sold those tools in 95 thinking I would get new tools.  I just now have a shop and am tool shopping.  I picked up the MiniMax in the late 90's and a few Dewalt hand tools here and there, but I am really starting over building the shop set up from scratch.

I will share my tools-to-buy list and comment on the other tool suggestions later after work.  Thanks for all the help.
 
So I really appreciate all the suggestions.  Reading through all the responses, I have assembled the following list:

MFT/3 x 2
TS 55
RO 90
RO 150
CT 36 with boom arm
LR 32
Clamps – assorted
Guide Rail accessories
OF 1400
Kapex and table

For non-Festool items, I decided on the Incra table saw fence.  Like Festool, I love its accuracy and repeatability.  Also the Powermatic 6” Spiral Head Jointer and Powermatic variable speed drill press.

I need a router table, and am torn on which one.  The JessEm Excel II Router table and lift with Incra fence seem to be the best combo, but I welcome you input.

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I wholeheartedly agree with Kev:  I brought in a comfy chair this weekend, tried to get the internet line to the shop hooked up last night, and I will relocated a small frig from the house to the workshop. Might as well work in comfort and style.
 
If you are breaking down a lot of sheet goods your going to need a long Guide Rail (at least 3000mm)  and the Parallel guide set.
 
I would add (or ditto...) to your list:

Thickness planer (either a good benchtop, but ideally a stationary 15". Spiral head is a nice-to if you're going to work with figured woods).
Drum sander

I would change your 6" spiral jointer to a 8" spiral jointer, changing brands from the mustard if I needed to in order to fit the budget.  8" is the sweet spot for jointers, 6" tend to get upgraded.

I would take a look at the Delta 18" drill press over the Powermatic as well for some cost-savings.
 
Just about comfort while you work, I'm all about it! it's the reason I dish out for the expensive gear! Setting up your shop to work comfortably in I feel is a high priority.
 
Several have asked what power I have.  The answer is 100 amp panel, one 220v line in several outlets along the interior dividing wall (basically extra deep double car garage with dividing wall down the middle).  I have several 110 circuits around the two rooms.  No 3 Phase.  I can run another 220 line if needed.
 
I would opt for a bigger jointer -- 6 inches are not wide enough for most solid lumber -- face jointing is the first step to processing stock and getting it flat and square.  A 12 inch machine or a 16 inch machine is ideal, hence the J/P combination I mentioned.  A 12 inch machine covers 90% of the material that enters my shop.  Lots of good manufacturs to look at for not much more than a standalone in other brands...

Scot
 
Only thing I would add would be 1400 guide rail X 2. You need 2 of them with connectors to break dow sheet goods.
 
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