Dream Shop - Help Me Spend My Money and Design My Shop

I agree, 6" is soo not enough. Most of the lumber I buy as a hobbiest is 6-8" wide, sometimes it might push 10". If you try and limit yourself to boards that will fit through a 6" jointer, you eliminate alot of choices when going through a wood stack.

ScotF said:
I would opt for a bigger jointer -- 6 inches are not wide enough for most solid lumber -- face jointing is the first step to processing stock and getting it flat and square.  A 12 inch machine or a 16 inch machine is ideal, hence the J/P combination I mentioned.  A 12 inch machine covers 90% of the material that enters my shop.  Lots of good manufacturs to look at for not much more than a standalone in other brands...

Scot
 
Sorry if I offended you, to me sandbagging is just understating your abilities or the difficulties of a particular endeavor.  Being able to start out fresh seems like a really fun challenge.  Good luck on your journey.
 
sancho57 said:
Only thing I would add would be 1400 guide rail X 2. You need 2 of them with connectors to break dow sheet goods.
I disagree. Joining short rails, while it does work, is a pain. Far better to get a 3000 rail as it will be in a shop.
 
GhostFist said:
Kev said:
GhostFist said:
Kev said:
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]
I agree with all this except for the ipad

Have another beer ... Relax, enjoy your abacus, parchment and quill !
You mean my functioning non over hyped devices, but cheers anyways

I deal with narrow minds and attitudes like this on a regular basis - so I'm not going to bother here.

Enjoy your functioning devices.
 
Some have asked for the size and layout of the shop, totally subject to change per your suggestions, within reason.  I attached the blue print.  It have two levels.

This is the main floor.  Basically a double car garage.

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The loft does not have a lot of room with head clearance as it was made with attic trusses.

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There was a 6x12 glu lam left over from the remodel that could not be reused, so I had my framers cut it in half, bolted it together, and mount it under the window for a work bench.  Very stout.
 
Kev said:
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]

Well I don't have an iPad just an old desktop computer, but otherwise I got the things Kev mentioned in my small basement shop...plus a nice Hi-Fi setup and the old discarded flatscreen TV from the living room. Now my wife is complaining that she never sees me upstairs anymore!  [big grin]
 
hrrb said:
Kev said:
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]

Well I don't have an iPad just an old desktop computer, but otherwise I got the things Kev mentioned in my small basement shop...plus a nice Hi-Fi setup and the old discarded flatscreen TV from the living room. Now my wife is complaining that she never sees me upstairs anymore!  [big grin]

Music is so important ...

Just had a funny mental image of Rembo motoring through his work listening to Bolero ... think I need some sleep!
 
Kev said:
GhostFist said:
Kev said:
GhostFist said:
Kev said:
Has anyone specified your need for a fridge with cold beer, an Internet connection, comfortable chair and iPad to chat on the FOG ??

Priorities !!!  [big grin]
I agree with all this except for the ipad

Have another beer ... Relax, enjoy your abacus, parchment and quill !
You mean my functioning non over hyped devices, but cheers anyways

I deal with narrow minds and attitudes like this on a regular basis - so I'm not going to bother here.

Enjoy your functioning devices.
I don't know what's so narrow minded about having tried both options and preferring one different than yours, but thanks I am and will continue to do so. Back to the topic at hand....
 
Wooddoctor,

  I have the Incra table, but I don't have the lift you are looking into.  This is the lift that I have.  

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With this lift, I can adjust the height of the bit,  and change the bit from the top of the table.  A must have with any router table.

[attachthumb=#]

If you get the Incra table, then spent the extra money and get the wheel kit.  If you need the table to be mobile.  I wish I would have bought this when I bought the table.  It was a pain having to lift the router table and move it around every time I needed to use it.  

This is the Incra lift.  I'm not sure of the model number.    I have a Porter Cable  3 1/4  HP motor on it.  The PC 7518 is a great router for my needs.
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The one thing I love about the table is the dust port build into the fence.  
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I have used the Incra table as a joiner a couple times.  With the fence you can adjust the in feed and out feed sides of the fence to use the router table as a joiner.  This method so far has been my choice of joining wood instead of using my old craftsman joiner.  
I have made a couple drawer boxes using the dovetail templates.  Just like the guy in the youtube videos.  They turned out great.  Easy way to make dovetails.  My dovetail jig now collects dust on a shelf in the shop.  
If you have watched the youtube video's then the table sells it self.

The quality is that of a Festool.  Worth every penny.  

Hope I could be of some help.  Please let me know if you have any questions.

Eric
 
Couple comments. While the Jessum table looks to be a real nice one it is not suited for the Incra fence due to its shape. You need a bunch of space for the Incra, that is why all their tables have the plate offset to one side.  Regarding your shop, I would put your finish room upstairs. You don't want to bother cleaning around cars and heating that whole space. Plan a separate spray booth with proper ventilation and you will avoid the challenges many of us face when it comes to finishing.
 
OK, this seems like a dumb question to me, so I am sure you may agree.  How do you break down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with Festool?  They are too big to put on even two MFT/3 tables.  So when most of you are suggesting using the guide rails and the TS55, how exactly are you doing it?  So you have another 4x8 table set up, then use the MFT to cross cut?  For example, if wanted to make upper cabinets 11.5 deep and 30 tall, I would normally rip the plywood on the table saw to 11.5", then cross cut to 30 inches on the MFT.  If I do not use a table saw, how are you making the first cut?  It sure seems like I need a big table to work on.

Thanks
 
After spending almost $10k on Festool products by time I am done, you would think I would have some kind of priority to get into one of their Vegas Cabinet and Drawer Making Classes.  By time the class shows up on their calendar, it is already filled.  FESTOOL - PLEASE SEND ME TO VEGAS.!!!!!!!!!  I could give you valuable feedback from a Newbie on you system, I learn VERY fast, and I will pay for the trip and class myself.  Win Win

WoodDoctor
 
We break down sheets in one of two, basically similar, ways

Couple of saw horses with sacrificial two-by material attached to the tops (yes, from below), lay down 4x8, cut through 4x8 and sacrificial two-by material.

On saw horses without sacrificial two-by material, lay down a 3" piece thick of rigid insulation foam from The Borg.

Similar results.

Plenty of room for clamps.
 
WoodDoctor said:
OK, this seems like a dumb question to me, so I am sure you may agree.  How do you break down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with Festool?  They are too big to put on even two MFT/3 tables.  So when most of you are suggesting using the guide rails and the TS55, how exactly are you doing it?  So you have another 4x8 table set up, then use the MFT to cross cut?  For example, if wanted to make upper cabinets 11.5 deep and 30 tall, I would normally rip the plywood on the table saw to 11.5", then cross cut to 30 inches on the MFT.  If I do not use a table saw, how are you making the first cut?  It sure seems like I need a big table to work on.

Thanks

Plenty of good ideas and plans available for cutting tables.  Ron Paulk has some good stuff.  Just spend a little time doing searches on here and you'll find plenty to choose from.  Of course, as previously mentioned, saw horses are the most basic solution.
 
WoodDoctor said:
OK, this seems like a dumb question to me, so I am sure you may agree.  How do you break down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with Festool?  They are too big to put on even two MFT/3 tables.  So when most of you are suggesting using the guide rails and the TS55, how exactly are you doing it?  So you have another 4x8 table set up, then use the MFT to cross cut?  For example, if wanted to make upper cabinets 11.5 deep and 30 tall, I would normally rip the plywood on the table saw to 11.5", then cross cut to 30 inches on the MFT.  If I do not use a table saw, how are you making the first cut?  It sure seems like I need a big table to work on.
Thanks

Read and view the videos in this thread:

Cutting table

Then you will add the Parallel Guides and the 3000mm Guide rail to you shopping list.
 
GPowers said:
WoodDoctor said:
OK, this seems like a dumb question to me, so I am sure you may agree.  How do you break down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with Festool?  They are too big to put on even two MFT/3 tables.  So when most of you are suggesting using the guide rails and the TS55, how exactly are you doing it?  So you have another 4x8 table set up, then use the MFT to cross cut?  For example, if wanted to make upper cabinets 11.5 deep and 30 tall, I would normally rip the plywood on the table saw to 11.5", then cross cut to 30 inches on the MFT.  If I do not use a table saw, how are you making the first cut?  It sure seems like I need a big table to work on.
Thanks

Read and view the videos in this thread:

Cutting table

Then you will add the Parallel Guides and the 3000mm Guide rail to you shopping list.

The way I do it is use a sliding table attached to my Powermatic 66 Table saw.  I can cut 4x8 sheets easy and it's great for cross cutting table tops, etc.
 
WoodDoctor said:
OK, this seems like a dumb question to me, so I am sure you may agree.  How do you break down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with Festool?  They are too big to put on even two MFT/3 tables.  So when most of you are suggesting using the guide rails and the TS55, how exactly are you doing it?  So you have another 4x8 table set up, then use the MFT to cross cut?  For example, if wanted to make upper cabinets 11.5 deep and 30 tall, I would normally rip the plywood on the table saw to 11.5", then cross cut to 30 inches on the MFT.  If I do not use a table saw, how are you making the first cut?  It sure seems like I need a big table to work on.
Thanks
You are standing on the big table I started on. [crying] ;) Just put down a sheet or 3 of insulation and you are good to go. Later I was building my workbench I used the half bench. Now it's built I use it No MFT for me
 
WoodDoctor said:
OK, this seems like a dumb question to me, so I am sure you may agree.  How do you break down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with Festool?  They are too big to put on even two MFT/3 tables.  So when most of you are suggesting using the guide rails and the TS55, how exactly are you doing it?  So you have another 4x8 table set up, then use the MFT to cross cut?  For example, if wanted to make upper cabinets 11.5 deep and 30 tall, I would normally rip the plywood on the table saw to 11.5", then cross cut to 30 inches on the MFT.  If I do not use a table saw, how are you making the first cut?  It sure seems like I need a big table to work on.

Thanks
Just like others,i use a couple saw horse with a sheet of 1/2" ply and a sheet of foam unsulation.
You can use your table saw,i have done that for many years,but since i have the festool,never again.I'm not getting any younger and trying to work with heavy sheets like melamine that i sometime use 5x9 not 4x8 are very heavy and very hard to handle by yourself.
 
the initial planning / cut-list has a lot to do with it. all my initial cuts are aimed at breaking sheets in half, and I gang cut these.  keep in mind that it's usually necessary to cut a "collar"  if your aim is professional accuracy.  If you're using a CAM oriented program to generate cut-lists, there's usually a global value which may be set for this.

I use a 4x8 trailer as my workbench, since it's less handling to pickup a bunk of sheet-goods, back it in the shop, and immediately start  gang-cutting,  from there, a few saw horses with a grid frame is tough to beat.

I have a sliding table saw,  and a CNC router,  but neither can compete with the TS on a guiderail once you're used to it.

note to self:  pickup foam insulation sheets today  -what a great idea! 
 
You need a phase converter and some real machinery.

My fairly large festool collection really compliments the 25k pounds of cast iron machinery I use.

Plus, they are fantastic to pack up and take with you for an install.

I am not really sure how the TS saw would be quicker and better then a sliding TS.  The Altendorf's, Martins, etc. can rip over 100" with the sliding table.

 
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