Drill press vises

[rmwarren]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] not sure, I was considering that myself but shied away for that reason. The fit is tight, no more than a few thou, so it wouldn't take much upset metal to jam it.

I'll take a closer look at the clamping mechanism later.

The 1214 came from McMaster, about $30/FT.

Thanks for that Richard ...I just checked and I have some 1 1/2" Ø 6061 so I'll make a standoff and see what happens.

Interesting pricing from McMaster...12L14 from Discount Steel (which is local) is $13 per foot.

Curious why you chose 1214 rather than 1018? Better machinability?

Whoops, almost forgot........

But Mom, it followed me home...

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Willburt's long lost twin! I don't even want to know how little it cost...

I needed some other stuff from MMC so I grabbed the steel there rather than hitting Fazzio's for a 4' chunk of 1018 for probably the same price. If I order by about 2:00 MMC arrives next day. Don't recall the difference in cost on the 1018.

PM me your address if you want enough of the cork rubber for the jaws.

RMW

 

[Cheese]

Willburt's long lost twin! I don't even want to know how little it cost...

I needed some other stuff from MMC so I grabbed the steel there rather than hitting Fazzio's for a 4' chunk of 1018 for probably the same price. If I order by about 2:00 MMC arrives next day. Don't recall the difference in cost on the 1018.

PM me your address if you want enough of the cork rubber for the jaws.

Ya I found his twin hanging out in California...I guess he got tired of the Midwest.  [big grin]

MMC prices can be steep but their service is terrific. My packages always arrive next day.

I appreciate the kind offer Richard but I'm going to have to purchase some anyways for my other vises. Wilburt, The Record & The Starrett (Yost) are all getting leather pads, possibly the little Palmgren also.  [smile]

Where do you purchase yours?

 

[rmwarren]

I got the "cork rubber" Andy Klein sourced for his twin speed vise:https://www.in-kleind.com/store/10-x-30-Cork-Rubber-p129024790

RMW

 

[Dick Mahany]

Those Versa Vise pics by [member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member] and [member=44099]Cheese[/member] really got me interested in finding one.  They look like a such a great addition to a worktable for light duty applications.  I purchased an original tall jaw model from an online seller and am anxiously awaiting its arrival.  Then I just need to figure out how to disassemble it without damaging the bushing on the sliding jaw for refurbishment. 

Used ones in reasonable condition are selling for a little more than the original price........ [eek]

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[Cheese]

I just checked and I have some 1 1/2" Ø 6061 so I'll make a standoff and see what happens.

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member]  [member=59951]Dick Mahany[/member]

The interesting thing about the various "Versa Vises" is they are free to pivot on the vise base until you tighten the jaws slightly, then a cam is actuated that presses against the vise base and prevents further rotation. Here's a typical vise base.

[attachimg=1]

I wanted to investigate if the vise base could be fabricated from aluminum rather than steel. So I took a chunk of 6061 aluminum, coated the end with red Dykem, placed it in the bottom vise mount and tightened the vise jaws by placing the vise on the floor and then stepping on the handle. I applied approximately 80-100# of force on the handle. That's certainly several times more than would be applied in typical usage.

Here's a photo of the mark left behind in the red Dykem after the jaws were fully tightened.

[attachimg=2]

I then marked the end of the aluminum where the vise mark was so that when I removed the Dykem, I'd know where to look for any damage caused by the vise cam.

[attachimg=3]

With the Dykem removed, the entire clamping area was looked at closely for any damage. There was absolutely no damage at all.  [smile]

[attachimg=4]

Now, knowing that aluminum mounts would work for this application, I decided to fabricate a mount to be used with 80/20 extrusions (RH side) and a mount with a 20 mm dog end so the vise can be placed on an MFT.

[attachimg=5]

Here the vise is installed vertically & horizontally on a SYS-MFT for working outside.

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[attachimg=7]

 

[Dick Mahany]

I just checked and I have some 1 1/2" Ø 6061 so I'll make a standoff and see what happens.

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member]  [member=59951]Dick Mahany[/member]

The interesting thing about the various "Versa Vises" is they are free to pivot on the vise base until you tighten the jaws slightly, then a cam is actuated that presses against the vise base and prevents further rotation. Here's a typical vise base.

[attachimg=1]

I wanted to investigate if the vise base could be fabricated from aluminum rather than steel. So I took a chunk of 6061 aluminum, coated the end with red Dykem, placed it in the bottom vise mount and tightened the vise jaws by placing the vise on the floor and then stepping on the handle. I applied approximately 80-100# of force on the handle. That's certainly several times more than would be applied in typical usage.

Here's a photo of the mark left behind in the red Dykem after the jaws were fully tightened.

[attachimg=2]

I then marked the end of the aluminum where the vise mark was so that when I removed the Dykem, I'd know where to look for any damage caused by the vise cam.

[attachimg=3]

With the Dykem removed, the entire clamping area was looked at closely for any damage. There was absolutely no damage at all.  [smile]

[attachimg=4]

Now, knowing that aluminum mounts would work for this application, I decided to fabricate a mount to be used with 80/20 extrusions (RH side) and a mount with a 20 mm dog end so the vise can be placed on an MFT.

[attachimg=5]

Here the vise is installed vertically & horizontally on a SYS-MFT for working outside.

[attachimg=6]

[attachimg=7]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] thanks for that great information and excellent pics.  I had wondered if an aluminum base would "brinell" with the clamp action.  I have an old Chinese mini lathe and could easily fab up a couple of mounts and would prefer to use the aluminum if possible.  I have machined the high lead steel material before for pen bushings and the like but I don't have stock that large in diameter.  This is helpful info to know.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Ditto what Dick said.

Also appreciate how the pics show the scale of the vise.
I’d read the dimensions but it’s bigger than I realized.

What’s the weight of the vise?

 

[Cheese]

What’s the weight of the vise?

They quote 16# Michael...it’s a really nice convenient size for real working applications. It may just be kept inside the SYS MFT for the summer and then brought inside to use on the larger MFT  for the winter.  I think the extended height jaws will be nice for sheet metal fabrication.

 

[Rob Z]

Cheese, thumbs up for that excellent modification.  [big grin] That vise sure does have the retro-cool factor.

Going the other direction, I am waiting for my Dad to tell me I can have Grandpa's old vise. I don't recall the brand name, but it originally was mounted on the front of an ancient Oliver tractor on the farm in Kansas.  When Dad says he's ready to let me take it I will likely need to rent an engine hoist to move it  [eek] [scared] [big grin]

One of those things that a fella doesn't need, but wants to have anyway. LOL

 

[Cheese]

I forgot to add that the "thrust bearings" that contact the bottom of the vise and the MFT/8020 extrusions are just 18-8 stainless flat washers that have been pressed onto the aluminum mounting posts.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Cheese]

Here's a set of cork covered angle jaws produced for the Shop Fox version that will readily clamp tapered pieces. I assume they will fit virtually all of the various Versa-Vises out there.
https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D31...d=1567351895&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews

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And here's the option Garrett Wade offers for their version of the Versa-Vise.
https://www.garrettwade.com/gyrojaw...ageId=05R10.01&merchArea=crosssell&merchPos=3

[attachimg=3]

 

[Dick Mahany]

WooHoo, received a Will-Burt versa vise today.  It operates very smoothly and shows no signs of cracks or significant issues.  Now for the job of cleaning, stripping, de-rusting and repainting.  I had never seen one of these before and only became aware of them through a couple of threads here on FOG. 

Thanks to the folks who helped me drain my allowance  [big grin].

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[attachimg=2]

 

[Cheese]

WooHoo, received a Will-Burt versa vise today.  It operates very smoothly and shows no signs of cracks or significant issues.  Now for the job of cleaning, stripping, de-rusting and repainting.  I had never seen one of these before and only became aware of them through a couple of threads here on FOG. 

Thanks to the folks who helped me drain my allowance  [big grin].

You sound like a happy camper Dick...you just purchased an early model Will-Burt, noted by the shape of the vise handle attachment, for probably a very insignificant price.  [eek]

I'll be very interested in how your restoration proceeds as my Will-Burt has been stripped to the naked metal surface and then oiled. That's probably not a great situation in the cold, moist northern Minnesota climates.

 

[Dick Mahany]

You sound like a happy camper Dick...you just purchased an early model Will-Burt, noted by the shape of the vise handle attachment, for probably a very insignificant price.  [eek]

I'll be very interested in how your restoration proceeds as my Will-Burt has been stripped to the naked metal surface and then oiled. That's probably not a great situation in the cold, moist northern Minnesota climates.

I got some great tips on how to dismantle it and remove the manufacturer's name plate from a fellow on a garage forum who does restorations.  He posted a pic of his last restoration and it looked much like Richard's with a black body, but the one he showed me had a red dynamic jaw.  His work is perfect and I'm fortunate to have his advice.

I hope yours holds up well with the oiling...........do things still rust when it gets to -20F ?  [big grin]

BTW what did you use to strip yours?

 

[rst]

I received my Versa Vise direct from willburtversavise.com yesterday...$96.00.  Great looking, planning to make a 3/8" polycarbonate base that I can secure to my MFT (countersunk truss head screws, threaded dogs from under table, same way I attach Sys Vacs) or clamp to other tables.

 

[rmwarren]

You sound like a happy camper Dick...you just purchased an early model Will-Burt, noted by the shape of the vise handle attachment, for probably a very insignificant price.  [eek]

I'll be very interested in how your restoration proceeds as my Will-Burt has been stripped to the naked metal surface and then oiled. That's probably not a great situation in the cold, moist northern Minnesota climates.

I got some great tips on how to dismantle it and remove the manufacturer's name plate from a fellow on a garage forum who does restorations.  He posted a pic of his last restoration and it looked much like Richard's with a black body, but the one he showed me had a red dynamic jaw.  His work is perfect and I'm fortunate to have his advice.

I hope yours holds up well with the oiling...........do things still rust when it gets to -20F ?  [big grin]

BTW what did you use to strip yours?

[member=59951]Dick Mahany[/member] my latest volley in the rust wars is LPS 3, I don't recall who suggested it but it's been good on the bandsaw/disk sander so far. It's supposed to be penetrating, waxie and self-healing whatever that add up to.

The trade-off is always the potential to contaminate a wood surface that will be receiving finish, which is partly the reason I lined the vise jaws with the cork/rubber stuff. Time will tell.

Last winter I bit the bullet and left the heat on @50 in the shop all winter, which largely prevented condensation from forming. I have a single 240V 24" by 48" radiant panel and from what I can tell the cost was

 

[Dick Mahany]

[member=59951]Dick Mahany[/member] my latest volley in the rust wars is LPS 3, I don't recall who suggested it but it's been good on the bandsaw/disk sander so far. It's supposed to be penetrating, waxie and self-healing whatever that add up to.

The trade-off is always the potential to contaminate a wood surface that will be receiving finish, which is partly the reason I lined the vise jaws with the cork/rubber stuff. Time will tell.

Last winter I bit the bullet and left the heat on @50 in the shop all winter, which largely prevented condensation from forming. I have a single 240V 24" by 48" radiant panel and from what I can tell the cost was

 

[Cheese]

BTW what did you use to strip yours?

I didn't...it came stripped and oiled from La Puente.  [eek]    I really like the look but not sure how well it will survive the weather in Minnesota.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Dick Mahany]

BTW what did you use to strip yours?

I didn't...it came stripped and oiled from La Puente.  [eek]    I really like the look but not sure how well it will survive the weather in Minnesota.

[attachimg=1]

How funny.  Yours only lived about an hour and a half way from me, yet mine had to travel cross country from CT.

 

[Michael Kellough]

“Stripped and oiled”

Long time ago when just starting out with no money I’d go to garage sales religiously to find good quality old tools that didn’t look good anymore so I co buy them cheap. I’d clean the rust off with a wire wheel and wipe the whole thing (handle and all) with plain old boiled linseed oil and set it aside to dry for a few days. Most of that stuff now stays in an unheated metal shed a less than a mile from the NY harbor and they haven’t acquired any new rust in the decades since oiled. A leather handled Estwing chipping hammer did get mold on the leather but I don’t recall if it was oiled.