Drilling Holes in a Workbench

[jmarkflesher]

I have a OLD 2" thick Rock Maple bench top. It has three rods running front to back and two tightening bolts on each end holding the bread board ends. The best spacing of holes for me was 7" on center. If I find I need more I will double the holes by going 3 1/2" on center. I got the 3/4" bushing from Lee Valley but decided not to use them. The bench top drill press drilled all holes without problems. Layed out the entire top and started sliding drill press to holes. Located the brad point bit on X and drilled through the top without tear out on bottom side. The spurred bit left a thin plug upon exiting bottom.(See Picture) Finished by applying Slip-It inside holes mostly to keep out moisture. Thanks, MARK

 

[jacko9]

Nice job and that Delta drill press has some years on it.

Jack

 

[Cheese]

Looks good, have you checked the position of the holes with a square? Just curious...
I did the same thing to a 1 1/2" maple top using a 20mm Zobo bit.

 

[jmarkflesher]

Put in a straight line where holes would start along edge of table. run a square line at half way. Checked it with a 3-4-5 mathematical triangle. When that was good layed all holes out. Checked out the end marks, by luck within .003 in 5 feet, than started drilling. But I will not use this bench for any cutting. MARK

 

[Cheese]

Put in a straight line where holes would start along edge of table. run a square line at half way. Checked it with a 3-4-5 mathematical triangle. When that was good layed all holes out. Checked out the end marks, by luck within .003 in 5 feet, than started drilling. But I will not use this bench for any cutting. MARK

You can call it luck but, it all gets back to careful layout. That optimizes the luck issue. I'm always amazed at the tolerances that can be held thru very careful layout and implementation.

That looks like a real handy portable drill press. It looks like it was made from 2 different machines. Why 2 electrical cords going to the switch?

 

[jmarkflesher]

I cringe when I see another bad issue with the Kapex and other say that you are being to fussy with tolerances. I have one good certified straight edge that is + or - .0015 over entire length and a 6" Starrett square which is same. How do you set up tools without having a dependable reference? Just bought the Betterly Una Gauge. So far it is more than I expected but I will continue to put it to the test before I decide to keep it.The bench top is a Delta Milwaukee and has a foot pedal on off. I highly recommend this feature on any drill press. MARK

 

[Cheese]

I totally agree, You need to have an accurate reference and that is where the machine tool manufacturers have it over the woodworking tool manufacturers. I'm a retired engineer/designer/machinist and I've used Starrett exclusively for over 40 years because of their precision. Any Woodpecker's tools that I purchase, I always check them against the Starrett's that I use, and the Woodpecker's in that sense are very good. Tough to justify using a $1600 24" Starrett square when a $180 26" Woodpecker's square is pretty much the same thing for WOOD.

Having said that, I also think that sometimes we become too absorbed with the specs of a tool and don't just use the tool first before we bash it. I think you need to use the tool first and if it doesn't work for you, then measure it to quantify the areas, through measurements, in which it is deficient. Just as Starrett and Fluke have tool certification programs, I'm sure that Festool could offer a certification program but I'm not sure that many people would spring for it as it would probably cost an additional 25% - 40% of the cost of the tool. I'm talking Kapex in particular. Certification is an expensive process, it's just more insurance costs.

I still think the Milwaukee/Delta drill press idea is great, and the foot switch is a super idea. I will have to construct a similar item. How many speeds does it have and what is the speed range? It looks like it uses a 1/4 HP or less motor.