DTS 400 EQ vibration issue

[AlexThePalex]

I set the sander down on table after about 10 minutes of running to work on something else. Went to move sander and it seemed extremely hot. I took a temp reading and middle of sander was 120f/49c while top of handle was 107f/42c , bottom of sander was also 107f/42c. Ambient was 88f/31c. Again, this may be normal but not sure.

With such a high ambient temperature, your readings are perfectly normal. That motor is making 14000 rpm's inside that little plastic box.

 

[bdiemer]

It's a finesse thing. The sander has only a 2 mm stroke. Everything is gentle, the grip, the paper, movement and most of all the air flow. Remember it's a finishing sander so the dust extractor can easily pull the light dust at its lowest setting. That being said, I do wear a mask with this sander...

 

[six-point socket II]

This thread reminds me of the Member from Switzerland who had the same issues with his brand new DTS 400. I can't find that thread right now, guess I'm looking in the wrong section of the forum - but I also can't recall what the final solution was.

Maybe [member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] or [member=1674]Peter Halle[/member] can remember/  can find it and link to that thread? Maybe it will help.

I'm definitely sorry that you are undergoing this issues [member=61515]Rustys[/member] , as my Review was partially responsible for your decision I guess.

I tried to replicate these issues with my DTS, I can't. Works as it is supposed to. Sorry!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[semenza]

I found these two. There was one other but it only had a couple posts that did not really address the issue.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...ving-problems-their-125s/msg454542/#msg454542
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...ith-my-ets-125-eq-sander/msg458490/#msg458490

Seth

 

[Rustys]

Thank you for all the suggestions and comments.

I may be comparing this to my current PC390K sander, which has acceptable vibration. Once it’s clamped down and with Ruben 2 paper, seems better but I can only run at 5 or above with CT26 attached.

Oliver, I used your review as input but it was my decision made from many perspectives. The sander seems ok without a CT26 connected but I didn’t try on a clamped piece. So this might be user error or both user/machine issue.

Grbmds, when I clamped it down, seemed to help.

@PeterHalle , I will try the hose and see if that helps.

Alex, Thanks for verifying the temp.

Cheese, it was all I had to check temp.

SRSemenza, thank you for the links.

I will be taking it back this weekend and see if I can re-create at Woodcraft. Once I have their input, I may opt for another unit (if this has an issue),  choose another sander or keep the PC and move on.

Russ

 

[Cheese]

Cheese, it was all I had to check temp.

I will be taking it back this weekend and see if I can re-create at Woodcraft. Once I have their input, I may opt for another unit (if this has an issue),  choose another sander or keep the PC and move on.

Hey Russ it works...who says a Thermapen is only good for steaks & chops?  [eek]

Also, when you visit Woodcraft, make sure to bring with you the board that's causing you problems along with 2 fresh pieces of the same grit sandpaper. That way your DTS and their DTS can be tested on your board in a direct comparison. Good luck...  [smile]

 

[Holmz]

Nicely done [member=44099]Cheese[/member] , reduce the variables down to a single one.

 

[McNally Family]

I don't remember which thread I read this in, and I couldn't find it just now, but I seem to remember one fellow saying he just hung his sander in the air, turned it on, and walked away for 4-6 hours.  When he came back, his sander was much more stable and the skipping around was over. 

I have no idea if this is the remedy for you, but it worked for him...

I took another crack at finding that thread discussing the idea of hanging your sander to help with the break in.  Here is the link:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...ew-rotex-users-a-public-service-announcement/

I think it was from 2013, and it led to a series of point-counter point posts, some friendlier than others.  In the end, some liked the idea of helping break in their sander, and others did not.  I suspect that will still be the case today.

Here is yet another thread regarding the DTS 400 handling problem.  Forgive me if this thread has already been referenced.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...400-not-feeling-the-love/msg343930/#msg343930

 

[Rustys]

Thanks for the link (in case you get bored).

Video of issue:

Video 3

 

[grbmds]

[member=61515]Rustys[/member] I did notice the position of your hand while sanding with the 400 in the videos. With both my ETS125 and DTS400 I support the back of the sander by putting my hand up under the hose. When I clamp the sanded piece down and hold the sander this way, I get almost no vibration. When I hold the sander on top, I find I get more vibration just about all the time. I believe, although have no real factual evidence, that supporting the hose/dust port slightly keeps the sander level. The weight of the hose on the back and the sander's rather light weight overall tend to pull the back of the sander downward instead of keeping it level. I can even sand by merely holding the hose and nothing else quite often.

I'm sure this sounds unlikely, but it has worked for me. I know that the vibration problems I had were remedied in far less time sanding that the indicated break-in period after I started holding them the way I described.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Judging from the videos, I think this is not how the sander is supposed to sound. Should make a lot more noise.

Also, the rattling you hear is because the piece isn't secured properly.

 

[Holmz]

That sounds pretty bad to me.

 

[bobfog]

Something very wrong with that. The vibrations are too low frequency, like a knocking from something that is out of balance

 

[Rustys]

So I went by Woodcraft. We could re-create the jumping around part. Tried an RTS and it did the same. It can't be run below 5 with CT attached. The vibration issue is user error and not securing piece properly. When I compared to PC sander, DTS has less vibration even at setting 5. The guy at Woodcraft wanted to know why I would run it a slower speed. I would assume you should be able to run it at a lower speed or why have it but a bad assumption on my part.

Thank you everyone for the help and input. More user error than anything. Still deciding if I will keep it.

Russ

 

[Holmz]

Well then try their Mirka deros.

 

[grbmds]

So I went by Woodcraft. We could re-create the jumping around part. Tried an RTS and it did the same. It can't be run below 5 with CT attached. The vibration issue is user error and not securing piece properly. When I compared to PC sander, DTS has less vibration even at setting 5. The guy at Woodcraft wanted to know why I would run it a slower speed. I would assume you should be able to run it at a lower speed or why have it but a bad assumption on my part.

Thank you everyone for the help and input. More user error than anything. Still deciding if I will keep it.

Russ

I own the sander and it is very sensitive to how it is held, pressure put on the top of the sander, and suction of the vacuum. It's a very light weight sander and I think that, it is because it is light, it is very easy to let it sag on one edge while moving it across the board which always causes vibration. I did have problems similar to yours when I first bought it, but I don't anymore, even at lower speeds. It could be, as some seem to feel, that Festool sanders need a break-in period. I think it is more likely that it is because, with use, I learned that supporting the hose with one hand and making sure the pad is completely flat on the surface are the two most important parts of technique with the sander to prevent vibration.

The sander should, of course, be able to be used at any speed and, if that is what you need it for, returning it is the best course of action. I'm not really sure what the lower speeds are normally used for. I don't use them, in general, and this is the first random orbit sander I owned that had variable speed.

As for keeping it, certainly don't keep something you aren't happy with. At Festool prices, you need to be completely satisfied with any Festool tool you buy. However, it is very useful for sanding inside corners and smaller pieces. I am working on a project right now that, without the DTS400, I wouldn't have been able to easily sand glue squeeze-out from the inside corners. It is certainly not my most used sander and, if you do a lot of larger flat surfaces, one of the ETS sanders might be more useful.

 

[leakyroof]

So I went by Woodcraft. We could re-create the jumping around part. Tried an RTS and it did the same. It can't be run below 5 with CT attached. The vibration issue is user error and not securing piece properly. When I compared to PC sander, DTS has less vibration even at setting 5. The guy at Woodcraft wanted to know why I would run it a slower speed. I would assume you should be able to run it at a lower speed or why have it but a bad assumption on my part.

Thank you everyone for the help and input. More user error than anything. Still deciding if I will keep it.

Russ

. I typically run my DTS at speed level 4 and the lowest vac setting I can get. Very smooth operation for me .  As you move up in grits and a smoother surface, the vacuum/suction level can affect you even more.

 

[Holmz]

...
I own the sander and it is very sensitive to how it is held, pressure put on the top of the sander, and suction of the vacuum. It's a very light weight sander and I think that, it is because it is light, it is very easy to let it sag on one edge while moving it across the board which always causes vibration. I did have problems similar to yours when I first bought it, but I don't anymore, even at lower speeds.
...
I think it is more likely that it is because, with use, I learned that supporting the hose with one hand and making sure the pad is completely flat on the surface are the two most important parts of technique with the sander to prevent vibration.
...

^These^ are good points, and pretty much why I suggested to try the Deros. It has a bit lower profile and CoG which makes it a bit harder to rock. But if one dislikes a paddle then it is not a good choice. Since woodcraft carries both sanders, then it seems worth trying it?

It could also be worth looking at different hoses, as a light flexible one can help to keep the sander from getting rocked as grbmds suggests.