Dust Collection Pipe System

[travisj]

If it were me, I would go with your first option.
1.  You already have the parts and 2. The magports wouldn’t offer you any increased functionality.  It would actually add inefficiency (albeit slight).  In your first picture you only have to open the blast gate whereas with the mag port, you have to open the blast gate and attach a hose.

I think the magports are pretty cool, but in this situation I don’t see any added value by using them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gregor]

[member=53905]Gregor[/member] that's a very interesting thought. I will probably operate the system as is for a while, just in case I decide to move it some where else in the shop.

In case you don't bold it to the wall itself but onto a carrier with cleats... it would stay somewhat mobile.

Okay, time for a poll:

2) Only put a single blast gate and a magport right after the Y

Simply because you could pull the hose off in case you need the space below for something, like doing a glue-up of a thing that needs the height (that wouldn't be there when attaching the additional Y and gates).

You could still put another Y with additional gates at the two machines should you notice that it's more convenient to have one there.

 

[Bob D.]

"I thought of putting some kind of mesh wire to prevent small part to get sucked. I will at the propeller for sure, since I notice some brand have that feature."

This could also cause large shavings from a planer or jointed for example or when cleaning up around the shop from entering the DC and create a partial blockage that would build over time to stop all flow. My point is be careful of what size opening your mesh has that it's not too restrictive.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Don't you hate it when you realized your self that you have been dishonest  . Dishonest with my self and my poor questions. I'm guilty to not provide to you the full picture of my intent. I will clean the shop today and will invite you to the dragon's den.

Prior to start that project, I visualized in my head a bunch of scenarios. Should I go straight to the tool by running the pipe diagonally etc etc.. I drank a lot of coffee on this, perhaps too many.

On going clean up..

 

[gnlman]

"I thought of putting some kind of mesh wire to prevent small part to get sucked. I will at the propeller for sure, since I notice some brand have that feature."

This could also cause large shavings from a planer or jointed for example or when cleaning up around the shop from entering the DC and create a partial blockage that would build over time to stop all flow. My point is be careful of what size opening your mesh has that it's not too restrictive.

That is one of the nice things about mating the dust collector to a cyclone, or buying a cyclone dust collector. Nothing goes thru the fan...or at least so far....lol
Greg

 

[rmhinden]

Do Magports come in sizes other than 4"/100mm ?

I contacted Magports, they are planning a 5" version. 

Bob

 

[Alanbach]

I would install as many wyes stacked on top of each other as needed for the tools in the area. You have gone to all of this work, don’t stop now and start moving hoses around. You can also stack two wyes and go all the way down to the floor with more straight pipe and create a floor sweep with a blast gate. It is a nice way to provide more stability and get a floor sweep in the bargain.

 

[Bob D.]

"I thought of putting some kind of mesh wire to prevent small part to get sucked. I will at the propeller for sure, since I notice some brand have that feature."

This could also cause large shavings from a planer or jointed for example or when cleaning up around the shop from entering the DC and create a partial blockage that would build over time to stop all flow. My point is be careful of what size opening your mesh has that it's not too restrictive.

That is one of the nice things about mating the dust collector to a cyclone, or buying a cyclone dust collector. Nothing goes thru the fan...or at least so far....lol
Greg

I agree, but they put those bars in there for some reason, which thinking about it a little more maybe it has nothing to do with keeping debris out of the fan. On mine there are only two bars, one vertical and one horizontal, so there is room for big stuff to get through and do damage to the fan. So maybe they're there to reinforce the opening in the fan housing, and not to keep junk out of the fan since it should be caught as you say by the separator.

 

[gnlman]

[member=60461]Bob D.[/member]
Hmm never thought of the bars as being structural.....and I've seen where folks have snipped them off with hopes of increasing suction...I always assumed those bars were meant to catch something like a shop rag or small tool that accidentally gets sucked up. I could see where in some instances it could be keeping the inlet sound though. I would probably never snip mine off (especially now) for both of those reasons.
Thanks,
Greg

 

[Bob D.]

[member=60461]Bob D.[/member]  Thank you for putting a  [big grin] on my face this morning. I'm sure you won't be able to resist to the temptation of showing off your Magport setup [popcorn]

Well, not setup yet. MagPorts just arrived today. But I must say those 2.5" MagPorts are tough to separate. Same number and size magnets as the 4" version. I bet you could get by just fine with only 4 magnets on the 2.5" version. A FT hose is too small, will need an adapter collar. Haven't tried any of my other hoses yet. The 4" should be fine I suspect.

 

[Cheese]

Pertaining to this thread, I just noticed a new Flexaust product. It's a light weight, flexible PVC hose with an ultra smooth interior surface while also having ESD protection. Woodcraft just listed it in their latest catalog.
http://www.flexaust.com/product/flex-tube-pv-sd-lw/

[attachimg=1]

 

[Mario Turcot]

Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member] that's a nice flex hose but can't find it anywhere  [sad]

I did not give up on my system yet. I made some significant change from my original design, will post pictures soon. I just need to clean the shop again  [embarassed]

 

[semenza]

Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member] that's a nice flex hose but can't find it anywhere  [sad]

I did not give up on my system yet. I made some significant change from my original design, will post pictures soon. I just need to clean the shop again  [embarassed]

Here at Woodcraft ........ https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=Flexaust&button=search

Seth

 

[Mario Turcot]

Thank you Seth  [smile]

 

[semenza]

I just got the Flexaust hose. 4" x 10'.

Things to note compared to the basic 4" black plastic DC hose .........  it is about twice as heavy (not that it matters),  is waaaaay more flexible (it can do multiple and compound bends), stretches and recoils.

The 10' length is only 10' if you really pull it out taught. To keep it at ten feet it would need to be firmly attached at both ends. When figuring your use it would be a good idea to figure a working length of more like 8 1/2'.  If stretched to 10' and released it will recoil / retract to about 7 ' - 8'.

Can't say about the anti-static yet. Hooked it up and did a few feet of planing. Not enough to tell.

Seth

 

[Cheese]

I just got the Flexaust hose. 4" x 10'.

Things to note compared to the basic 4" black plastic DC hose .........  it is about twice as heavy (not that it matters),  is waaaaay more flexible (it can do multiple and compound bends), stretches and recoils.

The 10' length is only 10' if you really pull it out taught. To keep it at ten feet it would need to be firmly attached at both ends. When figuring your use it would be a good idea to figure a working length of more like 8 1/2'.  If stretched to 10' and released it will recoil / retract to about 7 ' - 8'.

Can't say about the anti-static yet. Hooked it up and did a few feet of planing. Not enough to tell.

Seth

Seth, 
Is that the blue stuff I mentioned to Mario?

If so I’ll be interested in your thoughts.

 

[semenza]

I just got the Flexaust hose. 4" x 10'.

Things to note compared to the basic 4" black plastic DC hose .........  it is about twice as heavy (not that it matters),  is waaaaay more flexible (it can do multiple and compound bends), stretches and recoils.

The 10' length is only 10' if you really pull it out taught. To keep it at ten feet it would need to be firmly attached at both ends. When figuring your use it would be a good idea to figure a working length of more like 8 1/2'.  If stretched to 10' and released it will recoil / retract to about 7 ' - 8'.

Can't say about the anti-static yet. Hooked it up and did a few feet of planing. Not enough to tell.

Seth

Seth, 
Is that the blue stuff I mentioned to Mario?

If so I’ll be interested in your thoughts.

Yes, in the links above.

Seth

 

[Bob D.]

Looking at the Flexaust web site they have many style hoses, connectors and other accessories.

Thanks for that link. I may now have a new source for some 16" exhaust duct needed at work.
I will have to check their pricing and see how it compares to what I buy now. I need about 200 feet.

 

[MikeGE]

Mario, I had a DC system similar to yours and after lots of thinking about it, decided the 3HP blower motor assembly was the only part I wanted to keep.  I designed my own collection system using 120mm steel ducting, an Oneida steel SDD, and a pair of Wynn 35BA filters and catch pans.  My shop is in the below-grade basement of my house (with no external windows or access), and I am determined to contain all dust there and not let it make its way through the rest of the house.

Here's the finished system, with room under the filters for my compressor.  The dust drops into a 35-gallon plastic trash can that is internally reinforced to keep it from collapsing.

Here is a view of the system before I added the filter box.  Although not shown in these images, I use a bungee cord across the top of the plywood that attaches to the trash can handles.  This gives extra compression between the trash can rim and the rubber gasket attached to the bottom of the plywood.

Here is a closeup of the blower assembly showing how I attached it to the wall.  I used rubber isolation mounts in compression mode to minimize the vibration since my shop is directly below the dining room.  This layout works very well and my wife tells me she can't tell when the DC system is running.

This is a closeup of the interface between the blower outlet and the filter box.  I used section of 180mm flexible ducting and formed it into a rectangle that is slightly larger than the blower outlet.  I would have preferred a straight path to the filter box, but I had to make do with the limitations of the closet I built before I had the DC components.

This is a view from the inside of the filter box showing the ducting and the pitot tube that connects to the external differential meter I use to monitor the filter efficiency.  It works well, and I noticed after a long cutting session that the meter reading was increasing.  The plastic trash can collapsed slightly and broke the seal at the bottom of the SDD.  This allowed lots of dust to enter the filter box and started to clog the filters.  After an hour of cleaning the filters, I reinforced the interior of the trash can with braces, and it hasn't collapsed since.

This is another view from inside the filter box showing how I attached the Wynn filters.

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=70363]MikeGE[/member] That's a very nice and convenient setup you made. I wish I had your talent and the room to put my DC and Compressor in a different room  [big grin]