Dust extraction

Beertje

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May 19, 2018
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Using a TS55 coupled with a C26 extractor i am experiencing quite a lot of dust from the front end as i do cross cuts, obviously i dont expect 100% suction but how much escaped dust should i expect?
 
A little less with a bigger (35mm) hose & some gaffer tape over the arbor nut peep-hole.
 
Thanks for the advice. I as cross-cutting 45mm thick Pine when i noticed, just done a batch of 25mm and the dust was barely noticeable, so i guess the first lot was approaching the max for the 27mm hose.
 
Beertje said:
Using a TS55 coupled with a C26 extractor i am experiencing quite a lot of dust from the front end as i do cross cuts, obviously i dont expect 100% suction but how much escaped dust should i expect?

Dust from the front end? Do you mean the beginning of the cut or the end of the cut?

There is always dust blow out at the end of the cut as the blade emerges from the wood. If your are doing a lot of cross cuts there will be a lot of dust behind the bench/table. If that’s a problem just add a stop block where the exit kerf will be. That will stop the dust exiting the first cut but be much less effective on subsequent cuts. Just move the stop block over a little for each cut.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Dust from the front end? Do you mean the beginning of the cut or the end of the cut?

There is always dust blow out at the end of the cut as the blade emerges from the wood. If your are doing a lot of cross cuts there will be a lot of dust behind the bench/table. If that’s a problem just add a stop block where the exit kerf will be. That will stop the dust exiting the first cut but be much less effective on subsequent cuts. Just move the stop block over a little for each cut.

A piece of masking tape will also work to cover an existing kerf in your cutting table where dust escapes.
 
If you are doing cleaning up cuts on eg plywood, you should stay away 5 mm from the edge. Less distance causes a lot of sawdust being projected from the front.
 
For edge trimming cuts (I think Bert meant cleaning cuts) I tape a strip,of thin cardboard (cereal box) to the side of the saw so that it just touches the sacrificial surface and also wraps around the front of the saw. That forward end of the cardboard needs to be trimmed/stepped to fit around the saw base and it will require more tape to seal than you might expect but then it allow trimming when half the blade is off the wood with throwing chips all over the place.
 
I've attached a 1" National Guard Products weatherstrip to my 55 and 75.  Works great for eliminating side thrown chips, also have closed the rectangular opening with a piece of thin ABS.  My next modification will be to get a NGP 6611A style strip and make slots for attaching attaching so I can move the brush down further for edge cuts.
 

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rst said:
I've attached a 1" National Guard Products weatherstrip to my 55 and 75.  Works great for eliminating side thrown chips, also have closed the rectangular opening with a piece of thin ABS.  My next modification will be to get a NGP 6611A style strip and make slots for attaching attaching so I can move the brush down further for edge cuts.

Nice idea, thanks for sharing!  My most unfavorite cut is the clean up cut on factory sheet good edges.  This looks like an excellent solution.
 
Do you have a splinterguard and is it against the board and is it supported?

Splinterguard

If you make a cut on the very edge of a board, expect more dust since it can easily escape the extractor suction.
 
[member=43117]Kriss[/member] has a video on how to make an attachment to improve edge cut dust collection:

 
Thanks for all the advice. As a novice it's great to pick your brains, as Hannibal Lecter said/or should have said [tongue]
 
There also is FESTOOL Cover Plate 491750 which drops lower on the edge and covers the arbor hole. Unfortunately the front needs to be cut out to clear the bolt for the forward tear out green piece if that makes sense. It also can not be used when cutting on an angle.

If cutting on an MFT table you can also set up a stop "fence" at the end of the guide rail, attached to the table, to block any debris from flying further forward.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Any tips to improve dust collection on the HK saws?
The video is for HK85, but same can be done with 55. Also, you could add a cover to the pendulum part. It will be essentially the same as the cover utilized on VN-HK85 grooving unit, but flat.=player_embedded
 
Looks like a great candidate for ABS use.  I used .060 ABS to plug the rectangular holes in my TSs.  I used two layers, one a friction fit in the hole and another glued on top to overlap, preventing accidental dropping into the blade cavity.  They've been in all three saws for a couple years without falling out.  I would not use tee nuts however.  The brush that I use to trap sideways chips is attached with small screws tapped into the blade cover.  I used self tapping 12-24 (steel door hinge screws) and then ground off the ends that protruded into the blade cavity rather than buying undersize taps to ensure that the screws fit tightly. 
 
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