DW735 Planer and Byrd Shelix Head Cutter

[kevinculle]

I measured the amperage draw of my 735 before and after the cutterhead change and the Byrd heade was indeed drawing about 7% more amperage than stock.

 

[Bob D.]

[member=60461]Bob D.[/member]

If you had a line splitter you could learn how many amps your machine is pulling.  Here is a video which may help.

Your 20A circuit should not be tripping the breaker, if as you noted, it is the only appliance/tool being run on that circuit.  However, because you mentioned the ambient temp being in the low 30s when this happens, I wonder if the 735 has inherent friction affected by the cold temp which dissipates when the machine has been run?

Just a guess on my part.

Yes, added friction from some stiff lubricant somewhere was my thought too, maybe the bearings as it never did this until 2 winters ago, and as I said my machine is about 10 years old IIRC.

I have a splitter and know how to measure the current, just haven't bothered.

 

[kevinculle]

The stop is adjustable at least on mine!, just loosen the nut, move the screw to the correct height and tighten it back up. You have to be careful when tightening it up, it tends to move the screw as you're tightening the nut.

Thanks for that tip tdwill1!

 

[kevinculle]

I think part of the increased current draw from the Byrd head is due to the geometry of the cutters...because the cutting edge is skewed to the toolpath and overlapped between rows there is more contact area between cutters and wood than a straight blade head.  The work done to remove wood is the same but the increased frictional area takes more power to drive.

 

[jdw101]

I have this planer and the cutterhead but I haven't installed it yet.  The planer came with an extra set of knives and I try and do most of my stock prep by hand until I have mastered it. 

The reason I am posting is I wanted to express how shockingly nice the face of the boards are when they come out of this planer with the steel knives.  I almost could not believe it.  I fed in some pretty nasty grained quilted maple and it came out like glass.  Granted, the first thing to touch the initial knives but it was amazing.

I ordered the Byrd Shelix and it took 6 months to get, ordered it 3 months before Christmas last year and got it about a month ago.  It's still in the box, I have to get through the first set of knives and then the extra set I got with the kit. 

One thing though, I am kind of wishing I had ordered the head that was a little larger around (The one where you have to screw in the cutters after it is installed) because it just seems like it would be nicer to have the extra cut.

I also felt I got a pretty nice deal on it, I bought the head and complete additional set of cutters for less than 600 USD.  At one point I remember the cutter costing near that alone.  Thanks for all the good info,  I also bought the digital gauge everyone is using.  Have to get the cutter on before I do that too!

 

[patriot]

[member=45902]jdw101[/member]

Thanks for your post.

Best of luck getting the cutter installed.  Please let us know about the install and the difference it makes to your workflow. 

 

[Cheese]

I think part of the increased current draw from the Byrd head is due to the geometry of the cutters...because the cutting edge is skewed to the toolpath and overlapped between rows there is more contact area between cutters and wood than a straight blade head.  The work done to remove wood is the same but the increased frictional area takes more power to drive.

Because the cutting inserts are skewed with the Byrd head, there is never a time when the cutters are not engaged in the wood being planed, whereas with the standard 3 blade setup, there is some relief every 120º of rotation.

 

[Cheese]

A couple of weeks ago I installed the Byrd Shelix in my 735.  I ordered the smaller diameter version with new bearings installed and it took around 90 minutes for the install.
The only issue was the size of the snap ring pliers needed. Make sure you have a large enough pliers on hand. I'd suggest pulling off the side cover of the planer first and checking the pin diameter needed for the snap ring. Standard snap ring pliers have tips that are too small while the pliers I use for transmission center bearings is too large.  [sad]

In the photo below, the cutterhead shaft is the one in the middle. Look at it closely and you can see the black snap ring and the size of the tips that the snap ring pliers needs to have. Also, the snap ring is probably .090" thick so you need a lot of leverage to remove it.

My observations:
Wow, what a difference in noise level. [big grin] There was approximately a -10dB reduction in noise as measured with an app on my phone. That's a perceived noise level reduction of 50%.

I had previously planed some Ambrosia maple with the standard 3 blade setup and in some areas I was getting tear-out that was 1/16" deep. That's the reason I put this drawer front project on hold until I could order/receive/install the Byrd cutter head.

Incredible, I replaned the troubled tear-out areas on the Ambrosia and they are absolutely smooth. Almost like they had been run through a Timesaver. I'm way impressed...I should have purchased/installed the Byrd head 8 years ago!!!

This is a no-brainer improvement for the DW735.  [thumbs up] [thumbs up] [thumbs up]

 

[jlt23]

Do you guys recommend the smaller diameter or OEM Shelix head?

 

[Bob D.]

Glad to hear the conversion went well and of the noise reduction.

I bought the head a while back but haven't installed it yet. I need to get around to doing that though as I have a project I want to start which I will need to plane some cherry.

 

[Cheese]

One more observation after I ran a bunch of the Ambrosia through the planer.  With the Shelix, there is a slight ripple across the surface of the board. It can be felt and it can be seen but it is quickly removed with just a swipe of the ETS EC 125/150 and 180 grit Granat.

The ripple is consistent and runs in the .001" to .0015" range. Not a big deal and I'd still rather have the Shelix head rather than the standard 3-blade setup.  The ripple is probably just the result of the design of any helical cutter head.

I'd be interested in hearing if others have experienced the ripple effect with other brands of helical cutter heads.

 

[semenza]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Any idea what the actual size is on the snap ring pin? 

Seth

 

[Cheese]

Sorry Seth, I never measured it. I do know that’s it’s larger than .070” though because that size tip was too small. It’s probably close to .100” or maybe a little more.  [tongue]

 

[ear3]

The individual blades on the Shelix are slightly convex, which is what I assume causes the ripple.  I get the same effect on mine, but as you said, easily removed.  You definitely win the OCD award though [member=44099]Cheese[/member] for actually measuring it!

I also still get snipe on my planer, though not a function of the Shelix.  I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the differential pressure applied by the front vs. the back roller, as I can definitely feel the board pop slightly when the front roller engages it, and the moment of engagement always marks the point of the board where you see the level change from the snipe. 

Anyone every mucked around with adjusting the roller pressure on the 735?

One more observation after I ran a bunch of the Ambrosia through the planer.  With the Shelix, there is a slight ripple across the surface of the board. It can be felt and it can be seen but it is quickly removed with just a swipe of the ETS EC 125/150 and 180 grit Granat.

The ripple is consistent and runs in the .001" to .0015" range. Not a big deal and I'd still rather have the Shelix head rather than the standard 3-blade setup.  The ripple is probably just the result of the design of any helical cutter head.

I'd be interested in hearing if others have experienced the ripple effect with other brands of helical cutter heads.

 

[Cheese]

You definitely win the OCD award though [member=44099]Cheese[/member] for actually measuring it!

I also still get snipe on my planer, though not a function of the Shelix.  I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the differential pressure applied by the front vs. the back roller, as I can definitely feel the board pop slightly when the front roller engages it, and the moment of engagement always marks the point of the board where you see the level change from the snipe. 

Anyone every mucked around with adjusting the roller pressure on the 735?

Well thanks for the award Edward...it’s the perfect solution for an engineers conundrum. To measure or to not measure...aye, there’s the rub.  [smile]

As far as snipe goes, I’m still working on that issue. There has to be a way to mitigate this issue short of just throwing $$$$$ at it.

 

[blaszcsj]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] [member=37411]ear3[/member] do you think this has to do with the undersized head and increased downforce of the rollers since the “zero” plane has shifted? I.e. you have to make up the .006” radius difference.

I am trying to evaluate this before I buy.

 

[semenza]

Sorry Seth, I never measured it. I do know that’s it’s larger than .070” though because that size tip was too small. It’s probably close to .100” or maybe a little more.  [tongue]

Well come on man, pop that thing open again and measure it! I need to buy some pliers. 

On second thought I will just get every size.  [scratch chin]  Yup, that's a better plan.  [big grin]

Seth

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] [member=37411]ear3[/member] do you think this has to do with the undersized head and increased downforce of the rollers since the “zero” plane has shifted? I.e. you have to make up the .006” radius difference.

I am trying to evaluate this before I buy.

You’ve got a good point, but I think it actually snipes less than the original 3 blade version. The snipe is in the .002”-.008” range. It’s not consistent which really drives me crazy.  Before the Shelix conversion it would snipe in the .015” range all day long. It got so bad that I’d just go to a local wood vendor and pay to have him run the boards through his timesaver.

 

[Cheese]

Well come on man, pop that thing open again and measure it! I need to buy some pliers. 

Always a comedian in the house... [poke]

 

[Rob Z]

Cheese, you mentioned a 10db reduction in sound with the Shelix cutter. I think that is what was advertised for the  " silent power " upgrade on my Hammer A3-31.  Wow, what a difference it makes. [eek]

I don't recall what the upcharge was, but it was well worth it.