Svar said:Does not matter.GoingMyWay said:What thickness is your shim or does the actual thickness not really matter?
Right. But mine is 10mm. And I this it's a good choice.
Svar said:Does not matter.GoingMyWay said:What thickness is your shim or does the actual thickness not really matter?
Michael Kellough said:Translation?...The single photo says it all.
Steven Owen said:Maybe we can have one of our English speaking cohorts make an English version of the video so it's easier for people to reference in the future.
It's a very practical method to keep the domino stable for angled joints.
Dick Mahany said:Have you ever considered guards for it?
Bohdan said:Switch on the subtitles and select "English" in the auto translate menu.
Boris Beaulant said:Svar said:Does not matter.GoingMyWay said:What thickness is your shim or does the actual thickness not really matter?
Right. But mine is 10mm. And I this it's a good choice.
Jim Metzger said:I like the idea very much. How do you set the Domino on the alignment marks on the work piece? The cursor is obscured by the miter block.
A small notch in the shim will solve the problem. A "deluxe" version could be made of Plexiglas.Michael Kellough said:That’s a good question. Since there is no cutout window in his piece he must be registering from the sides of the fence or base or simply using the flip out paddles.Jim Metzger said:I like the idea very much. How do you set the Domino on the alignment marks on the work piece? The cursor is obscured by the miter block.
Svar said:BTW. The shim does not have to be beveled at 45. One could use rectangular shim and set the fence at 45 instead of 90.
Svar said:BTW. The shim does not have to be beveled at 45. One could use rectangular shim and set the fence at 45 instead of 90.
CirclDigital said:It must be me....
But someone please enlighten me why this is preferred to using the fence at a 45 angle and referencing from the "inside" of the mitre?
This works for me every time without any issues....
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