End grain joints on butcher block type top

[ear3]

Starting to spec out my workbench redesign to allow for better hand tool work and integral vising.  I'm going to make a top -- approximately 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 thick -- from 6/4 or 8 /4 maple stock that I will dress and rip myself.  Since the bench will only be about 72" in length, that would leave me with a lot of waste if I were only to use full length pieces cut out of 8 or 10 ft boards.  So I figure I can go butcher block style and stagger in some of the smaller off cuts that are end grain joined to create the full 72" in length.

So my question is whether it's worth it to invest in something like a finger joint router bit to do the end grain joints, or whether I would be fine just gluing up the top with a simple butt to butt fit on the smaller pieces?  I see there are a couple of options for variable finger joint router bits to handle thicker stock.  I was looking at the Freud in particular, which says it can create joints in stock up to 1 23/32 thick:https://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-039-Variable-Height-Finger/dp/B00004T7MB

I will probably do the top in three sections, each one apprx. 72" x 10", so that I can run them through my planer first to deal with any ridges left over from the glue up.  Then use the domino to join them to form the entire top, which I would then level off with either a jointer plane or router sled.     

 

[Michael Kellough]

I know the appeal of making your own workbench but the specs you're starting with are so close to what you can buy ready-made from McMaster-Carr . When you consider the value of your time...

As to the finger joint question, it isn't necessary since the joint is supported by the adjacent boards.

 

[HarveyWildes]

Instead of a finger joint, I might use a domino or two to keep the butt joints tight for gluing up in the block.  Also, I'd make the outside pieces full length.  That way all of the butt joints are sandwiched.

I like the butcher block approach.  I think it results in a very stable top, and you can play little games (book matching pieces, stripes of contrasting wood, etc.) with it if you are so inclined.  You can also build it a little heftier if you want - the added mass never hurts.  That's how I built mine, and I got about 2 1/4" out of it with minimal waste.

 

[mrFinpgh]

What style of bench are you planning to build?

Mike Siemsen has a great design that is extremely functional for hand tools.  If you haven't checked it out, it's probably worthwhile to take a look - he has a video where he shows all the different possible ways to use the bench without necessarily relying on a vise.

Other styles are obviously great, too.  But I like the simplicity and speed of the viseless approach.

-Adam

 

[Stephen B]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member] 
In my experience, be it only three tops, on one I butt jointed with dominoes, the other two I didn't bother. It's the clamping that is probably more significant. Glue wise I have used both Titebond111 and Sellys Outdoor  Aquadhere.

As for purchasing rather than making your own top. Sure, if you can satisfy the quality. I have two cut up factory made bench tops stored in the UntidyShop that split on glue lines whilst being stacked for sale at work. By making your own, you control quality, aesthetics and, as this is a workshop bench, the thickness.

Timber in photo is Australian Blackwood, part of a current project using shorts purchased from a kitchen cabinet maker liquidation.


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