Energy efficient garage doors with high "R" value

[BarryL]

Did I get you in here John?  I sure hope so!  That was my intention! 

I cannot tell you how many times I have read your project page where you detailed the building of your garage doors!  How do you like them?  I am going to try to get two doors like yours built and hung before this winter creeps in.  I am planning on just framing in a window on the other side of the garage to make more wall space ..as well, I do not need but two doors.

Is there anything different you would have done? Any suggestions?  I love how yours turned out!

I might also ask...as I know that many have converted the garage into shop...has anybody else built / or are planning to build doors for their garage? 

Take a look at Johns great site - woodshopdemos  where he detailed building some great doors!

 

[woodshopdemos]

Barry,
  You got me.Thanks for your kind words. I wouldnt change anything about the doors. I would use different construction methods, like the Domino where I used beadLOCK but thos are minnor. I thnk the r value is about as good as you can get.

The story starts here:http://www.woodshopdemos.com/gar-dr-1.htm

 

[jakiiski]

The R-value depends on the type of insulation used.
- if you use polystyrene, the R-value if equal to similar thickness of mineral wool/glass fibre insulation.  I.e. 50mm = 50 mm.
- if you however use polyurethane blocks/foam, the R-value will be half of similar thickness of mineral wool/glass fibre insulation. I.e. 50 mm polyurethane equals 100 mm of "normal insulation material". Polyurethane is also more rigid than polystyrene.

=> Polyurethane is the best known insluation, if you use that you will get a "warmer" door.

 

[BarryL]

Thanks Jakiiski!  That is exactly the kind of information that will be useful in my doors!  I will try to Google that type of insulation to see what I can find.  Is this something that you can get at the home centers as well?

 

[jakiiski]

I don't know what you have available there, but I would assume yes.

In Finland it's available with brand name "SPU" and "MacroPUR", but I know it's a Canadian invention and for example some door frames/garage doors come from Canada with that insulation in it.

But, a local hardware store that sells insulation material should know what you mean when you ask for PolyUrethane insulation Boards.

 

[bruegf]

John,

What kind of hinges did you use?  As heavy as your doors are I would guess a standard exterior service door hinge would be inadequate.  I'm thinking maybe a ball bearing hinge? 

Just curious....

Fred

 

[woodshopdemos]

Fred,
  From page 6 of that story:  "I got these Stanley hinges that are real heavy steel and have ball bearings ? they are costly (Stanley Number: FBB179 4 1/2  x 4 1/2; about $30 each and can be special ordered by your hardware dealer.) "

 

[bruegf]

Thanks,  John.

Sorry I must have missed that when I read the story.  I in the planning stages of a double wide closet door/bookcase that will look like a builtin bookcase when its closed and I expect that I will need something better than ordinary door hinges to handle the weight.

Fred

 

[BarryL]

John

I am in the process of drawing up my garage doors in sketchup.  Your doors are great and I do not intend to reinvent the wheel in making mine...but I have a few questions....

Your opening was 8 feet wide and you made each door 46 1/2 wide with 2 x 4 jamb on each side...  my questions center around where the doors meet in the middle...how much space is between the doors and how did you adjust them for ideal fit?  How much space is necessary to be able to close the doors as they sweep closed on an arc?  I am just very inexperienced with building doors and don't want to end up with..."oh wow....they need to be trimmed somehow..."

Next question...after you hung the doors...then you mentioned adding a top jamb....just a 2 x 6?  What did you do there to seal out the weather?

Next question on the hinges..  you had the issue with the screws going into the edge of the OSB...is there something you would do different there or just use the solution you did on your doors?

Last question...when calculating out the height of the doors....what did you take into consideration to get to your final height?  If say the opening is 7' in height...and a 2 x 4 jamb....how much did you allow for clearance at the top and bottom...and I guess that is part of the question above with the weatherstipping or whatever you used...

Wow....I can see there was a lot of thought put into those doors!  I hope mine turn out half as good as the ones you built..

Barry

 

[butzla]

John,  Did you ever consider sliding overhead rails instead of hd hinges?  Like on the New Yankee workshop.  Seems to me it would work easier than hinges.  Also,  how about insulated glass instead of plexi for the windows?  Just curious as to your mind set.