ETS 150/3 - First usage and thoughts...

JimB1

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Jun 12, 2011
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I got to use my new 150/3 last night for a bit and figured I'd post a few thoughts. This isn't really a review, just a few things I thought were interesting or gotcha's that I didn't think about when getting it...

First, the discs: It comes with a selection of 5 disks (Rubin 80, 120, 180 and Brilliant2 220, 320). I haven't tried the Brilliant disks yet. After using it for an hour and a half or so (the first 10 minutes or so on scrap to get used to the sander) on some glued up rail and stile doors and solid wood edging using all three rubin disks, the 180 seems to be wearing out quick. 80 and 120 seem much better. I think I may need to pick up Granat or Brilliant2 180 and see if they last longer. 5 Packs seem to be going away and the 5 packs out there don't appear to be multi-jetstream disks so testing different disks can get expensive. I really think that the grits for Festool aren't quite the same as the 5" grits I am used to. I think there are a few standards for grits and I expect that Festool uses whatever standard is in use in Germany. The Rubin 180 Grit seems finer then the 180 grit pads I have for the Porter Cable.

Next, the sander itself: On the panels, I didn't think about this when I bought the 6" but the radius of the pad is much larger then the 5". What this means is that the area in the corners that I have to sand by hand is much larger then when using the 5". The plus side is that the rails and flats go much faster and while it is not that aggressive, using 80 grit and slowing my passes down I can get out planer blade marks in about 2 passes then can move on up the grits. A couple of the pieces I used it on I had gone over previously with the Porter Cable 333 and the 150/3 flattened them and sharpened the edges nicely. I don't have the hard pad yet but it seems to work fine on 2 1/2" rails and even the 3/4" x 3/4" solid wood edging without rounding the edges at all. As I went along last night, the vibration I initially felt in the unit gradually went away. A few folks have said it takes a few hours of use for it to break in but it seems to be very good on vibration now even after an hour and a half. I've found that the most comfortable way for me to hold this is one hand on top and one hand where the hose meets the sander. This way the hose doesn't mark the wood and the weight stays balanced. One really cool thing is if I line the center of the unit up, it stays balanced even on the 3/4" x 3/4" pieces without rounding over the edges or feeling awkward and tippy. The other thing with smaller pieces is that the unit does transmit the vibration into the pieces so if you are holding a piece manually, you will get the full vibration in that hand and it causes he pieces to walk around on the table unless they are secured somehow.

Final thoughts: I like the sander a lot, very nice so far and comfortable to use. A few things I need to think about as far as sanding in corners. With the 6" pad, it almost doubles the corner area I need to hand sand. I don't have the cash for another festool to handle corners so I may need to invest in another brand 1/4" sheet sander now because the time saved using the 6" is used up by having to hand sand more in corners on some pieces. The issue of sanding disks is complicated. I wish they had a mixed grit pack or something $9 - $16 a 10 pack to see if I like a type is a lot to spend. especially since it seems that some types are better in certain grits then others.

Well, that's my quick first real use thoughts... hope they are useful for someone.
-Jim

P.S. Notice I didn't mention dust control? That's because it is a given for this sander. There is no dust when using a CT extractor. My Midi works great with it.  [thumbs up]
 
It all depends on how much you dislike the hand sanding in the corners.  My first Festoy sander was also the RO 150.  I already had an old Milwaukee 1/2 sheet sander to work into corners.  Since that had no DC capabilities, i picked up a LS 150 but still found i had to be very careful in the corners.  I do use it for final sanding over all are as the vibration is linear.  i can make all of the swirls from rotary sanding disappear with one or two passes.  I finally broke down and bought the DF 93 with the triangular pad.  That is so manageable it takes only a few seconds in each corner.  I also find it to be very quick on door rails and use it in favor of the RO 150 in many instances.  If the Ro 90 were availalable, i would have made that my first Festoy sander (that is knowing what I know now).  For the uses you are mentioning, I can see you eventually showing your weakness  ::) by going for the 90. [cool]
Tinker
 
A few years back I bought my first Festool Sander, the DTS 400.  I bought this with a CT 22 as a combo.  I, too, was used to PC sanders with no DC.  I was blown away with this little finish sander.  No chatter in corners, can get into tight spots, beautiful finish, but it is a true finish sander.  I then bought the 150/3 and WOW, now that is a sander!!  They do complement each other very well, and since you already have a Midi...  [big grin] 

You could also look at the RO90DX, depending on the kind of work you do, this sander would give you the best of all worlds.  It is awesome on narrow stock, like face frames and rails, stiles.

Enjoy your tools!
 
If you make rail and stile doors you must before glue-up sand to finish all the sides that will not be sand-able after the glue up. Like the panel or inside sides of the rail and stiles.
And if you stain, then you must stain the panel before glue up as well.
I don't know if your door was new or an old one you were refinishing though.

As others have suggested i recommend the DTS 400 along with your ETS150, those or my fav festool sanders.
 
Timtool said:
If you make rail and stile doors you must before glue-up sand to finish all the sides that will not be sand-able after the glue up. Like the panel or inside sides of the rail and stiles.
And if you stain, then you must stain the panel before glue up as well.
I don't know if your door was new or an old one you were refinishing though.

As others have suggested i recommend the DTS 400 along with your ETS150, those or my fav festool sanders.

I was actually thinking that I should have sanded everything before assembly. It's my first (probably last :) ) time making kitchen cabinets so I'm making all the rookie mistakes I guess...

I'm thinking about the DTS 400 and RTS 400 but I probably won't have the cash for either for quite a while. RO 90 is cool but thinking about it logically I don't think the rotex mode is all that useful to me and the ETS 150 seems to work fine on narrow widths so can't see paying that amount of cash for a delta pad sander that I occasionally will use as a small RO sander. The DTS or RTS seem to make more sense in my world...

Thanks for the info on the doors, I have a bunch more to do so it'll be useful...
-Jim
 
I like Rubin for sanding bare wood up to 150 then I switch to Brilliant for 180 and up.  I am beginning to  try adding some Granat into the mix.

For knocking off glue lines I still prefer Cristal even over the Granat, but the granat is a close second for me.

Seth
 
I ordered some more Brilliant2 in 180, 220 and 320 plus some Rubin in lower grits.

I got to work with it some more this weekend. This is absolutely awesome for evening edge banding to ply precisely because it is not too aggressive. You can get the edge binding right down to the ply without eating into the face layer much and even without the hard pad as long as you don't put force behind it, it will remain flat.

One thing I have noticed is that at 180 now, the pores of the wood close up more so the wood doesn't take the stain as well. I may have to drop down to 150 grit for final sanding now. I'm not sure if it's the paper or the orbit of the pad but it seems to be a finer cut then I was getting with my PC 333.

Vibration is non-existent when using the unit and it works well one handed with my other hand holding the vac hose to keep the weight off. I do need to slow down my passes but it only takes a pass or two with each grit to get to a nice finish.

This was a great purchase, the only issue I had a couple of times is that the plug works it's way out of the accessory plug on the midi so I have to check it every once in a while. Other then that, sanding is far less tedious then it used to be.

-Jim
 
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