THis seems to show that SERVICE is the deciding factor with a Festool purchase (and to a lesser extent, sales tax). From the experience you've had with those Woodcraft franchises, perhaps Uncle Bob could offer you better service. He's done me good with the few purchases I've made thru him. My Domino arrived next day. Close enough to "now" for me...
ETS 150/3 problems - burning smell and overheating
- Thread starter denverdad
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Matthew Schenker
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Randy,
Thank you for taking the time to fully detail your experiences. It's really important in situations like this that members try to provide details that can be helpful to others. You certainly did that!
Sorry you had to have this kind of experience, but in the end it looks like things worked out for you.
I look forward to your future posts!
Matthew
Thank you for taking the time to fully detail your experiences. It's really important in situations like this that members try to provide details that can be helpful to others. You certainly did that!
Sorry you had to have this kind of experience, but in the end it looks like things worked out for you.
I look forward to your future posts!
Matthew
Dave Ronyak
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- Jan 23, 2007
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I don't own an ETS 150/3. I do own an RO 125, a Deltex 93 and an LS 130, and as like Dan, I have given both the RO and Deltex some hard work outs without any burning smell. The RO has been put to heavy loading while holding it at an angle to grind through old plaster cracks using 36 grit Saphir and with the speed dial turned down to reduce softening of multiple layers of latex paint. The body does get warm and the air coming out of the motor vents quite warm, but there is no burning smell from the machine. I'd say you definitely got a defective machine. If the store delivered a used machine when the deal was for a new one, they have an even more serious problem - fraud that is actionable under the laws of any state. They owe you a new machine in proper working order, as most are. If that occurred, it is a dealer problem, not a Festool problem.
Dave R.
Dave R.
Woodenfish
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I work with new electric motors on a regular basis and quite often smell some faint burning odor from them on initial use that I have assumed was from the brushes or something in the assembly breaking in that soon dissipates. The ETS sander has a very powerful motor. Like any motor its going to generate heat of some level and being a new tool to the owner the hand positioning or grip can affect how much heat you will feel.
I noticed a slight electrical smell too when I first turned on my brand new CT 33, ETS 150/5 and Domino. It did not last too long and all are fine. I was wondering though what the heck caused the sander to vibrate where the user was unable to control it? From using mine and others different Festool's plus reading about them I haven't come across complaints of out of the box DOA's or quality control problems.
Just pondering before I grab the torch and pitchfork and help storm the Festool castle especially if it was a new operator error. Sometimes internet BBS have a way of diving off the deep end when the pool is empty.
I noticed a slight electrical smell too when I first turned on my brand new CT 33, ETS 150/5 and Domino. It did not last too long and all are fine. I was wondering though what the heck caused the sander to vibrate where the user was unable to control it? From using mine and others different Festool's plus reading about them I haven't come across complaints of out of the box DOA's or quality control problems.
Just pondering before I grab the torch and pitchfork and help storm the Festool castle especially if it was a new operator error. Sometimes internet BBS have a way of diving off the deep end when the pool is empty.
Woodenfish, I too was wondering whether the burning smell was normal, and might go away. The burning smelll from the first sander was way over the top, it would fill the garage. I am pleased to report that the new sander does not make a burning smell, and does not oscillate wildly. In preparation for repainting my daughters' room, I went over all the walls with the ETS - vertical surfaces, one handed, no problem. BTW, has anyone tried to use the Brilliant2 for sanding drywall? It is recommended in the Festool abrasives brochure. These walls had paint over drywall. The "slick" finish mud job was terrible, and the paint was sprayed and had lots of junk trapped in it, so it was a mess. The Brilliant2 120 almost immediately filled up, but I found the Rubin 120 worked much better. The walls after sanding are smooooth.
re: pitchforks - I don't have any problem with Festool and never did, I have since ordered a Domino and all the accessories I had been looking for from Bob, and I am still trying to figure out how to afford to buy all the other tools they make.
-Randy
re: pitchforks - I don't have any problem with Festool and never did, I have since ordered a Domino and all the accessories I had been looking for from Bob, and I am still trying to figure out how to afford to buy all the other tools they make.
-Randy
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- Jun 24, 2007
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- 10,357
Hi,
Turning the sander to a lower speed will probably help with the loading problem also. That will reduce the heat build up and probably help keep the paint from becoming -melted? burnished?- whats the word I am looking for? - into the paper.
Seth
Turning the sander to a lower speed will probably help with the loading problem also. That will reduce the heat build up and probably help keep the paint from becoming -melted? burnished?- whats the word I am looking for? - into the paper.
Seth
Dave Ronyak
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I've experienced that reverse performance effect, too, between Rubin and Brilliant when sanding walls and ceilings painted with latex paint. Rubin has often worked better for me. The loading from latex paint [and old shellac/varnish on some doors] is in the shape of little curved tadpoles. I have found them easily flaked off by using a putty knife held at a slight angle while manually spinning the disk. A soft interface pad makes it much easier to deflect the sandpaper to crack the "tadpoles" loose. Of course, you can remove them by holding the putty knife with the disk being driven by the tool, but if you snag the tool, you could injure yourself!
Dave R.
Dave R.
Michael Kellough
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semenza said:
And keep moving to cool areas. Sanding in the same place too long equals melting paint.
Thanks for all the tips, you guys are great.
I don't know anyone else who would actually sand the walls before repainting them, so I felt a little sheepish about posting it in the first place. I also don't know anyone else who has Festools, so I guess I have more in common with you guys than I do with my neighbors.
-Randy
I don't know anyone else who would actually sand the walls before repainting them, so I felt a little sheepish about posting it in the first place. I also don't know anyone else who has Festools, so I guess I have more in common with you guys than I do with my neighbors.
-Randy
imaginarynumber
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I sand a lot of latex- primarily mdf primer but also wall paint.
I use 80g brilliant on my ro150 for badly painted walls and keep moving the sander to prevent over heating.
I find that the finer brilliant papers clog immediately but the titan papers are far better- especially when used with the interface pad.
Strangely the Festool USA site does not recommend Titan for water based paints whereas the Festool Europe site does recommend the Titan ???
I use 80g brilliant on my ro150 for badly painted walls and keep moving the sander to prevent over heating.
I find that the finer brilliant papers clog immediately but the titan papers are far better- especially when used with the interface pad.
Strangely the Festool USA site does not recommend Titan for water based paints whereas the Festool Europe site does recommend the Titan ???