ets125 or rts400 or ?

[mwildt]

Which sander is recommended for pre-paint sanding off a wall ?

I used my ets150/3 but found it a bit too heavy for wall work, tough I like the pad size. Is the ets125 or rts400 more recommend for this ?
Reviews of these varies a bit and I found them discussing more wood than wall sanding.

 

[Holmz]

The people with the Mirka DEROS say it is the lightest and best.
I don't know, I haven't used one... So that is all I have found out.

 

[AlexThePalex]

If you do full wall sanding a 150 mm sander is a big time saver over smaller sanders. I would do this with the Rotex 150 or ETS 150.

For patch sanding the ETS 125, DTS 400 or RTS 400 work great. I have all 3 of them and use the ETS125 and DTS400 often for sanding patched up spots on walls. They are too small though to remove paint on an entire wall. I mean, they will perform the task just fine, but it will take ages.   

 

[leakyroof]

Although I don't like using a ETS 150 overhead or on a ceiling for long periods of time if I can avoid it, I can't say I find that sander too heavy to use on walls/horizontally.  If you drop to a smaller pad size with either sander you posted about, you already know you're losing time as well since the 150mm/6" pad was covering your wall faster.  [embarassed]
I use a Planex on walls and ceilings where ever I can fit the sander. It speeds things up really nice.
If you're not stripping paint, then I would hope the ETS 125 would be okay for you.

 

[mwildt]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm not stripping the walls, just preparing for paint. The walls are interior so it's also includes some minor nail hole filling etc. on drywall.

The ets150 worked great, I used 180 brilliant. Should probably have used 120. If speed was not turned down to like 4'ish then I felt it got some nobs on the paper. Easy to flick off with the nail.

Might get the ets125 since it may be easier to control for the small repair areas. Any of you know if it comes with a paper assortment like the other sanders?
I do have the ro90 as well but having a one hand sander would be a benefit for this kind of work.

Just noticed that ets125 does not have a hard pad, only soft and super soft. Odd, since I like the hard pad for the ets150/3.

Alex, since you also have the rts/dts400, where do you see them shine more than the ets125 ?

 

[Holmz]

...
Should probably have used 120. If speed was not turned down to like 4'ish then I felt it got some nobs on the paper. Easy to flick off with the nail.
...

The Mirka paper is a screen.
If those screens will stick to your fetsool's velcro you may want to try that as the dust goes right up and out and the screens seem like they just do not clog.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Alex, since you also have the rts/dts400, where do you see them shine more than the ets125 ?

They are great for paint prep on window and door trim, windows and doors itself, plinths and all the smaller wood you can find around the house. DTS is my most used sander which comes out for almost every paint job I have to do. The ETS125 is my door specialist, I prefer the random orbit action on larger surfaces because it's smoother and also quicker.  I use the RTS mainly for fine sanding after the wood is painted with primer.

 

[Kev]

ets150 DC is probably your target then.

Festool's approach is obviously planex - with all the tech to take the weight out of a long wall and ceiling sanding engagement.

 

[Gargoo]

Leakyroof, which paper do like to use for sanding painted walls and ceilings with the Planex? I just purchase the Planex last Sunday and have tried crystal in 100, 150,180, 220, and 60 and 80 in the granat. Both papers load up quickly but I have had better success with the Granat. It seems I'm spending more time cleaning or changing the paper than sanding. Can you offer any tips? Thank you, Gargoyle.

Although I don't like using a ETS 150 overhead or on a ceiling for long periods of time if I can avoid it, I can't say I find that sander too heavy to use on walls/horizontally.  If you drop to a smaller pad size with either sander you posted about, you already know you're losing time as well since the 150mm/6" pad was covering your wall faster.  [embarassed]
I use a Planex on walls and ceilings where ever I can fit the sander. It speeds things up really nice.
If you're not stripping paint, then I would hope the ETS 125 would be okay for you.

 

[leakyroof]

Leakyroof, which paper do like to use for sanding painted walls and ceilings with the Planex? I just purchase the Planex last Sunday and have tried crystal in 100, 150,180, 220, and 60 and 80 in the granat. Both papers load up quickly but I have had better success with the Granat. It seems I'm spending more time cleaning or changing the paper than sanding. Can you offer any tips? Thank you, Gargoyle.

Although I don't like using a ETS 150 overhead or on a ceiling for long periods of time if I can avoid it, I can't say I find that sander too heavy to use on walls/horizontally.  If you drop to a smaller pad size with either sander you posted about, you already know you're losing time as well since the 150mm/6" pad was covering your wall faster.  [embarassed]
I use a Planex on walls and ceilings where ever I can fit the sander. It speeds things up really nice.
If you're not stripping paint, then I would hope the ETS 125 would be okay for you.

  That's weird that the Granat is even loading up on paint. I was just skim sanding older latex to get a good scuff for repainting with either 150 or 220 Granat and I had zero corns or stuck paint on the Disc when I was done.  How deep were you going with the Planex, like multiple layers of paint
I have managed to load up Granat with not-fully-dry Durabond/compound, but that was my fault, not the abrasive's.  [big grin]
Depending on what's stuck to the abrasive disc, I either use a Crepe Rubber cleaning block like the kind that you'd clean a sanding belt with, or maybe Denatured Alcohol with an old toothbrush.  I gave up using rags since the Granat is usually so sharp that it cuts a hole right into cotton while you're trying to scrub off something on the disc..... [eek] [eek]
Sanding schedules for me are usually higher grits than 60 with my Planex.  Haven't needed to break out any Saphir or remove a textured ceiling or wall finish, but it's nice to know the sander is ready for the job.
Drywall compound/mud, 80 grit for rough work or plaster repair/blending , or higher as needed.[ I never seem to be facing a wall that's newer than 80 years old.. [cool]]
Final sanding, 150-220 for compound.  I have all 3 Planex abrasive types on hand, but am usually using Granat for everything so far
I didn't know you could get any older stock of Cristal that would even fit the Planex, did you mean Saphir by mistake?