Face frame bookcases advice needed

I Googled "Wood stability Charistics" and found Beech.  I scrolled to this:

(Beech) Workability: Overall good workability; it machines well, and glues, finishes, and turns well. Beech also responds superbly to steam-bending. It does, however, have a large amount of movement in service, so movement and wood stability must be taken into account.

If you go back to reply #11 where i mentioned a quote (from memory way before i was 39/ever for the first time) from al old time carpenter on a job i was on about 100 years or so ago."Aye,  I wouldn't use beech fer anything.  It just follows the sun with all its twistin'."  I also qualified that i have never used beech for anything but fire wood, so I am not an authority beyond what i have been told.  all other accounts within this thread seem to indicate it is quid stable. JMB seems to think poplar is mrs stable. I have to gee with his observation in that i have used poplar (Tulip poplar) for projects where I want stability as the primary quality.  I have never used over sized dado or allowed extra spacing when using tulip where I would have made allowances for expansion and contraction if using other woods. I have not used tulip for any of my larger projects where i felt i had to allow for expansion no matter what wood i used.

That is just my thought on the matter and much of what I think I know is not from a lot of experience but more from info here on the fog (discounting my own entries) and from builders and carpenters i have known in the past (some even since i turned 39  [wink])
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
I Googled "Wood stability Charistics" and found Beech.  I scrolled to this:

(Beech) Workability: Overall good workability; it machines well, and glues, finishes, and turns well. Beech also responds superbly to steam-bending. It does, however, have a large amount of movement in service, so movement and wood stability must be taken into account.

If you go back to reply #11 where i mentioned a quote (from memory way before i was 39/ever for the first time) from al old time carpenter on a job i was on about 100 years or so ago."Aye,  I wouldn't use beech fer anything.  It just follows the sun with all its twistin'."  I also qualified that i have never used beech for anything but fire wood, so I am not an authority beyond what i have been told.  all other accounts within this thread seem to indicate it is quid stable. JMB seems to think poplar is mrs stable. I have to gee with his observation in that i have used poplar (Tulip poplar) for projects where I want stability as the primary quality.  I have never used over sized dado or allowed extra spacing when using tulip where I would have made allowances for expansion and contraction if using other woods. I have not used tulip for any of my larger projects where i felt i had to allow for expansion no matter what wood i used.

That is just my thought on the matter and much of what I think I know is not from a lot of experience but more from info here on the fog (discounting my own entries) and from builders and carpenters i have known in the past (some even since i turned 39  [wink])
Tinker

Yep, I found similar experiences on other forums, but for every person saying they wouldn't touch it, there were another three people saying that was nonsense, so I was a little worried. But it's certainly harder, and not being anything more than face frames or door surrounds hopefully will mean I'm safe and it won't turn into some evil monster trying to take over the house.

Plus it's being painted, so if it messes me about, I'll smash it up, fill it and paint it again. I'm not being dictated to by some wood, nosiree.
 
I also have noticed that most of the posters recommending beech are from UK area.  I have never been to UK but have been several times to Germany and one extensive trip thru Denmark.  I have seen some large beech trees in all six New England states, but in my European trips, some of those beech trees are huge.  Especially in Denmark.  The trees in Denmark were, in many observations, at least 48" in diameter and straight, rising (a visual estimate from my memories) 70 or 80 feet with not a branch and no visual sign of a branch knob.  Those trees were mostly along roadsides and in small groves along the route traveled. In Germany I saw many Beech trees of smaller size than in Denmark, but still quite large and very straight.  I saw those trees mostly along forest trails, but still, the evidence was that those trees had been well taken care of and al lower limbs had been well pruned.  The trunks rose to great heights, again with no visible signs of branching until 30 t0 50 feet.  It made no difference if the trees were grown in a crowded forest or along the edges of roadsides or open fields, they were well cared for and very straight to a height before any signs of branching. 

I see beeches here in NE that are maybe 30 to 40 inches in diameter, but unless in a heavily wooded forest, the branching begins within my reach, and I ain't so very much tall :(.  I think in Europe and UK, people have had longer period of time to realize the finality of logging and have been taking care of their trees for hundreds of years, going back to long before there was ever a USA.  Here, in US, we have, proportionally, only just begun to realize the value of our forests and the finality of our trees as a valuable, but dwindling source of lumber.  We are only just beginning to take care of that valuable resource.  Perhaps, it is more in the way we care for our trees that indicates the stability of such wood as beeches, and perhaps othe woods that we thing has a certain instability.  A straight log will harvest straight lumber.  A twisted or curved log will forever produce lumber that will want to twist into its original state of growth.

Many times, when I am looking for lumber for my projects, I want to find some crazy grain characteristics.  I have found i need to consider he length and width of the boards I want.  If something long, i need to avoid many crazy grained boards. Small knots do not seem to affect stability.  Large knots and a large area affected around the large knot will have an effect over twisting for a large area of the board.  I need to decide how the crazy grain will affect my project.  I don't always guess right, but sometimes the results can be quite interesting.

I've rattled about long enough.  It is time for me to get out and do something about another by product of our New England, and specifically Connecticut, trees.  I have customers who "...want those leaves off of our lawn BEFORE Thanksgiving."  Ah yes.  I am thankful for all of those leaves, they go a long way towards making my woodworking toys very affordable. ::)
Tinker
 
Had a call today giving me the go ahead on this job [big grin]

Dont worry some photos will be posted at some point
 
joiner1970 said:
Had a call today giving me the go ahead on this job [big grin]

Dont worry some photos will be posted at some point
Congrats.
Winning new commissions is definitely one of the high points of the job.
 
SMJoinery said:
joiner1970 said:
Had a call today giving me the go ahead on this job [big grin]

Dont worry some photos will be posted at some point
Congrats.
Winning new commissions is definitely one of the high points of the job.

Next best thing to the cheque clearing  ;D

Rob.
 
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