Festal Jigsaw OR Bandsaw for this?

[lumbajac]

Looking to make a table similar to this with curved legs, top, etc http://www.onlineamishfurniture.com/zoomify.asp?catalogid=5628&image=http://www.amishfurnitureimages.com/images/2010/country_woodshop/henderson_table.jpg

Don't have a bandsaw yet and contemplating whether or not to invest in one if I don't have to... that is if I could invest in a Trion for the time being if it will handle simple curves in thicker material such as in the example above. I know it is said to cut up to 4 1/2" thick, but on a radius?

Comments on whether the Trion would handle the task well or not?

Thanks

 

[mouppe]

I think you could either tool to rough out the curves, and then a router with a template to bring it dead on. You could always use the jig-saw to cut from both sides if needs be.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Hey Corey!  Cool table!  That would be a fun project.

As usual, Richard is spot on.  Run a few trial cuts on scrap wood of the same species and thickness and see about how far off square the cuts are.  Then use a template and a scribing marker to draw a line for the roughcut (distance off square away from the template + maybe 1/16 for good luck).  The template can be made of 1/4 or 1/2 inch mdf or plywood.  Use a flush trim bit to run against the template to smooth the curve.

If you can find (or afford) a flush trim bit long enough to smooth the curve, lemme know and we can get into a somewhat kludgy way to align two templates and run the bit from each side.

And btw, pay attention to grain direction when using that bit.  If going against the grain take very small bites or it will bite you back.

Another option (my preferred) do you have a friend in the UP with a bandsaw and maybe a shaper?????

 

[tbellemare]

You should have no issues using a Trion jigsaw on that table. Just be sure to use the right blade and keep the foot flat with the work. Speed an feed are also factors but you should be able to feel them.

Like Jesse mentioned, do some test runs to fine tune your technique.

Tom

 

[lumbajac]

Jesse,

Longest pattern bit (cutting depth) that I see anywhere with a quick search is 2".

I like the idea of using a pattern and bit, probably from 2 sides to get the depth I need, in order to get "perfect" curves.

Any other ideas on how to get the curve perfect on all 4 legs assuming they may be around 4" thick?

Thanks

 

[mouppe]

4" square is a very thick (and expensive) piece of wood. It could also present warping issues if the grain is not straight down the leg.

I would build up each leg from two laminations. Make a template corresponding to the leg shape you want, then clamp the leg material to the template and run it on a router table. I prefer to use top bearing flush trim bits such as this one.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020476/31592/Freud-Pattern-Router-Bit-Top-Bearing-2D-2CL-12SH-Freud-50138.aspx

Once you have the two pieces, glue them together and use a flush trim bit to smooth the faces. This is the same process I used to make table aprons and sides. You can see in this picture that the apron is made from three pieces of pine laminated together after being shaped on a template. Another advantage is that the lamination is usually stabler than a single solid piece of lumber.

[attachthumb=#]

Hope this helps
Richard.

 

[lumbajac]

Thanks for good input and advice thus far.  According to what I'm hearing I should be fine using the Trion for rough cut.

As far as pattern/template goes, do you suggest using Luan plywood for that and how do you ensure a smooth pattern - taking everything nice and slow I imagine, but are there any tricks?

Thanks

 

[mouppe]

I think I used MDF for my leg template, and pine for my apron template. Pretty much anything will do- you need to sand it really smooth as the flush trim bit will copy even the smallest dimple in the template. For curves which need a lot of sanding, I would steer clear of MDF because of the nasty dust. I like pine because it is easy to shape- plywood presents a stiffer challenge.

In fact, normally the template itself has a template! Made from cardboard or something similar. This is where you draw and cut the rough shape before transferring it to the router template. If the shape is symmetrical, then you draw half the shape and flip it over the centre axis. This ensures symmetry.

Also, make sure your template is several inches longer than the piece you are shaping. The nice thing about a template is you can keep working at it until you are happy with it, before touching the actual wood.

 

[tiralie]

Thanks for good input and advice thus far.  According to what I'm hearing I should be fine using the Trion for rough cut.

As far as pattern/template goes, do you suggest using Luan plywood for that and how do you ensure a smooth pattern - taking everything nice and slow I imagine, but are there any tricks?

I like to output my patterns to paper at full size from sketchup and then glue that to a board (1/4") MDF or HDF cut the pattern with a jigsaw and then clean up with a sander. Because your leg is thick but also thin at the end it will be difficult to keep a router square and supported so I would probably put it on a router table and use transfer tape to hold the template in place.
Tim

 

[BMH]

The wood whisperer has a good review on how to do templates for a project, this is the link to the first part; http://thewoodwhisperer.com/trestle-table-pt-1/
It should give you some idea on how to proceed.

Bruce

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Hey Corey,
Almost any material will do for a template.  I use mdf because it is easy to sand and smooth a curve.  Spend lots of time smoothing that template until you can run your finger over it and rejoice in how smooth it is.  Every little ding left on the template will have to be sanded out of the four legs, and mdf sands way easier than hardwood. [big grin]

The two sided template trick is as follows....

When you have perfected your template, mark its shape on another piece of mdf, rough cut with a jig saw and tape the two together and flush trim with the router.  Now you have a copy.  I would also make a backup copy just to be safe and because its so easy.

Get a length of dowel a little longer than twice the thickness of your workpiece.  Find a drill bit that fits the dowel tightly.  Tape the two templates together and drill a hole at each end through the two templates.  Now put one template on the workpiece and drill straight down through the two holes.  Straight down is important - use a guide or a drill press.  Now, just put one template on the top and one on the bottom and put the dowel through them to hold them tight and aligned. 

Now you can run the router from the top or bottom.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

band saw.

I am not sure what a festal is. [big grin]

 

[Alan m]

i think a band saw would be better for this job . the problem is you didnt need one for your previous work so you might not need it in the future.  i know if you have it you will find uses . have you a need for a jigsawa more or for the band saw. if you see your self needing the jigsaw more then that will work too.
it depends on what work you have ahead of you, is it site work or internal cuts(like a sink cut out).

 

[Neill]

Unless I am missing something here, I am not quite sure how stable you could keep that large tabletop on a bandsaw table of normal size, say about 20" x 20" of so. Of course you might be able to add extensions to the bandsaw table but I am not sure how well that would work.

I think your best bet is a jigsaw along with a template, as has been mentioned, to a slightly oversize dimension and then trim to final size with the flush trim bit and sanders.

As far as adding tools to your stable, you will eventually find the need for both so I see no significance to which you acquire at this time.  I do see that the Trion has dropped in price to $250 so this might be a good time to get one, unless you want to wait for the Carvex.

Neill

 

[mouppe]

I presumed the OP is looking to make a template for the legs, not the tabletop. I'm not quite sure why he would need to make a template for the tabletop, unless he was turning out several tables.

 

[lumbajac]

Correct - need template primarily for legs, but might also template for top and therefore Trion might be better choice for overall project.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

I think either one would work and regardless of what you choose you will need to smooth each part and a template is the way to go here.  A bandsaw will give you a lot of options for future projects including resawing and a whole host of joinery, but  a jigsaw is so useful too.  The Trion would be a less cost option initially.  Do you have space for a bandsaw?  What about dust collection for one? 

Scot

 

[KorDes]

I've used my ole Trion to cut a 4x4 post to length as I didnt have any saws capable of cutting that thick a material. Cut throught it with ease BUT the tip of the blade did wander so was left with a wonky cut.

A good bandsaw should leave a squarer cut along the curve. I fear the jigsaw blade will wander over the length of the cut and ruin a nice piece of timber.

If you have the room, get a good bandsaw.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I agree that the bandsaw would be the better solution and something you will want to buy eventually if you continue making furniture.  If you don't have the $$, space, dust collection, etc for a bandsaw, the Trion should do the job.

 

[lumbajac]

I have space, but not central dust collection for larger equipment, thus my interest in the Trion.

My shop is in the basement of my home and I have 2 small children so I am always concerned about dust.

My background is in framing, then started to get into trim carpentry before leaving the profession.  Trying to get back into the profession in custom carpentry such as built-ins, small remodels, etc.  That is why I am so heavily considering the Trion over the bandsaw at this time as it seems to have more future use.