Festool 55req vs makita sp6000j1

Kwolsen

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Jun 24, 2016
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15
Certain this comparison has been beaten to death many times before...
But why not one more time?
I'm new to woodworking and here's my deal.
1. Have limited workspace, so can't use/store a table saw.
2. Have various projects in mind from kids student desks to some simple cabinetry.

So, I don't want to cut on my garage floor on a sheet of foam with a track and track saw as I've seen others do. I want to be on a table, using the MFT/3 table makes sense.

In terms of track saws, I like the lower priced Makita sp6000J1 compare to the ts55 req, but I'm concerned about mixing products from different manufacturers in terms of compatibility.
If I just get the mft3 bare WITHOUT the angle unit(protractor head) and use the equivalent Mikita miter gauge device with the Mikita sp6000j1
Then there is dust collection, will the festool vac hoses fit with the makita?

is this downright nuts to mix products from diff manufacturers?

Bombs away, guys.

Thanks.

 
The lowest cost way to get the portable precision cutting ability that Festool introduced is to buy the Makita set and make your own MFT-like cutting station.

Buy a replacement top for a MFT, some QWAS dogs and or Parf dogs, and build your own table.
 
I have never used the Makita track saw so I can't offer a definitive answer on the vac hose fitting although I believe it does or else an inexpensive adaptor could make it happen.

Regarding a full MFT/3 or a bare MFT and the Makita miter attachment:  But the MFT/3.  That other accessories looks like the Festool one that has numerous non-likers.  There will be no positive angle settings.  Besides that I always advise on the full setup unless there is another full setup in the house.  The price differential when you factor in another rail is not that great.

Peter
 
I have the Makita TS and I use it with Festool's products with no problems.  It is a great saw and for me and my way of working it is perfect. I have had it since it was made available in the US market,  it's a nice saw and built in the UK.  If it lasts as long as my other Makita tools I be dead before the saw. The only Festool product that I have found not to work with the Makita is the parallel guide system,  every other parts can be easily modified to work with the Makita's tracks if you are thinking of using them,  but the saw is interchangeable.  B
 
Ive had both saws, the REQ does integrate slightly better with the PlugIt, but you can convert your other tools to PlugIts with a kit from Festool (might still have a few kicking around).

The Makita has a noticeably stronger motor, and the anti-tip feature which you'll appreciate if you bevel a lot. They have the scoring function too, though I don't use it that much, I seem to get a good finish without it (I never fussed with the Festool splinter guard either though).
 
I have had both. I'd give a very slight edge in power to the makita and I give a fit and feel to the ts55. The makita works on the MFT fine. The one thing that the festool wins hands down is the cam adjusters for fitting on the rail. The makita ones are finicky compared to the crisp adjustability to the ts55.
 
Brent Taylor said:
I have the Makita TS and I use it with Festool's products with no problems.  It is a great saw and for me and my way of working it is perfect. I have had it since it was made available in the US market,  it's a nice saw and built in the UK.  If it lasts as long as my other Makita tools I be dead before the saw. The only Festool product that I have found not to work with the Makita is the parallel guide system,  every other parts can be easily modified to work with the Makita's tracks if you are thinking of using them,  but the saw is interchangeable.  B

My I ask what makes the Makita saw not work with the parallel guide system? Is the problem the makita saw itself, or is the problem the makita guide rail in which case the problem could be avoided by using a festool guide rail?
 
I believe it has to be the track because that is what the parallel guide attaches to.  I use a DeWalt and had to make my own but I don't use it much.  It, like the Festool, cannot be used with clamps.  If I was to get one for a Makita or Festool, I would look at the one by Precision Dogs or other similar ones that lay on top of the workpiece.  I use my track setting jigs.  Much cheaper and easy to make and do not interfere with clamping. 

I use a Paulk style workbench with my DeWalt.  It is not the same but has similar funtionality.  He has a total workstation with the Kapex that could be good for limited space.  It also integrates a small table saw.  I think you will want one.  The other alternative that seems very interesting to me is the fold-up alternative with wheels.  It would be more similar to the MFT but move around and store easily. 
 
blaszcsj said:
I have had both. I'd give a very slight edge in power to the makita and I give a fit and feel to the ts55. The makita works on the MFT fine. The one thing that the festool wins hands down is the cam adjusters for fitting on the rail. The makita ones are finicky compared to the crisp adjustability to the ts55.

Very true. The makita cam adjustments for proper fit in the track constantly loosen and are fiddly to get right. The festool just works and stays. This in my opinion sums up the differences between the saws. The festool is just a little more refined in every way.

I've had 2 makitas (used as my rough work saws) and also have the festool. I'd you want to save cash the makita will do fine. I've not noticed any power difference between the two. I don't use the scoring feature of the makita and non tip feature for bevel cuts is not that useful as there is still some play so all it really does is so the saw tipping over when you let go of it still on the track.

The lack of splinter guard attachment on the makita bothers me more for when you want a totally clean cut on both sides of the line.

If you get an mft i would get the set. The makita saw will work fine on it.
 
I had the makita for about a month but had shortly thereafter bought the CT26 and an ETS sander. I'm into some cabinetry and bookshelves right now and had a small space in the client's garage to set up shop, so I built a version of a Paulk bench, and my own boom arm design for the vac out of 1/2" pipe and fittings. I ultimately decided to take the Makita back and get the TS55 because of the system integration with power cords etc. I have a vacuum hose and power cord rigged to the boom arm and being able to quickly change tools from saw to sander is a priority to my particular sanity, so, festool won.

The makita is a VERY good saw! It has a couple more amps in the motor which does make an appreciable difference. Rips through 3/4" with greater ease and less bogging down than the festool, and makes just as clean if not - and I'm serious - higher quality cuts.

Agree about the cam adjustments, but you don't have to mess with those often anyway. The one thing I'd say is that the festool's adjustment piece is a long strip rather than makita's small round(ish) cam, and makes laying the 55" rail (which should be 60" anyway for ripping across 4'!!!) across a full sheet more accurate at the start and finish of cut. Hope that makes sense, it's a small advantage of the festool, but no kind of deal breaker.

Makita's rail works very well with the TS55 as well, I bought makita's 118" rail for $220 because to me a track saw is only 40% useful without the ability to make long rips.

I also bought Dewalt's rail clamps which work perfectly with both makita and festool rails. 2 for less than the price of one festool clamp, and they work great!

I still don't understand the hype about the mft tables. To me they're way too small for the stuff that I personally do, I can see it if you're building jewelry boxes and other smaller stuff, but if you're going to be doing desks and cabs I'd say build a Paulk bench, buy or make your own clamps and dogs, and have the ability to throw a full sheet on the nice flat full sized table to work it down into pieces, build a cross cut jig if you think you'll need one, and have more capabilities/space than an mft...
 

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"I still don't understand the hype about the mft tables. To me they're way too small for the stuff that I personally do,"

The MFT tables are portable. They were designed to be taken to the work site where they can provide the level of precision that previously could only be found in a fully outfitted shop.
 
I think the Makita saw plays wells with the MFT-3 setup.  You can even drop the makita guide rail on the crosscut/rip system of the MFT-3 with very little issue.  The makita guide rail even accepts the hose deflector attachement to help with hose management.

As for whether the makita tracksaw can be attached to the festool CT dust extractors.  It does not work with the festool 27mm AS hose, but the festool 36mm AS hose works well and is probably a better option for dust collection on the tracksaws. 

The scoring feature works really well and gives a very nice, clean cut. 

The feskita setup with the makita rail in place.  I do also have the festool 1080 rail that comes with the MFT-3, but I have the makita rail loaded just for demonstration.  The makita rail is nice since it has that little groove which the makita can tab lock into so your bevel cuts are a bit more stable.  I did purchase one of the delrin slop stops and that works very well to prevent any movement of the festool and makita guide rail when cutting. 

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The festool hose deflector attachment on the makita rail

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A nice rip cut in Cherry, a little scorch burn at the end as I lingered a bit too long with the blade as I finished the cut. 

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About a 2" thick piece of sycamore cut by the Makita.  Not the densest/hardest wood but delivered a nice clean cut without any bogging of the motor, I did make a score cut and then cut about halfway through and then finished the cut on the second pass (not including the score cut).  I tend to like to do this with thicker cuts. 

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Does the Makita saw have a roving knife?  I think that's the only difference I noticed. Do any of you Makita owners have any problems with the saw binding up or jumping because of the lack of the r. knife?
When my TS55 plays out, I've been seriously considering the Makita.
 
I have had the TS55, TS 75 and the Makita. I kept the Makita. I never had it bind yet. The  Makita has more power than the TS 55.

So unless you need the power if the TS 75 go for the Makita for sure. The Makita is by far the best Track saw of its size I have tried to date.

It works great with all the Festool tracks.

The best part is I bought the saw by itself for 262.61 from Amazon Warehouse on January 15, 2015 because it was a return. It came with the case and two blades and it appeared never used to me. It has performed flawlessly since. So keep a look out at Amazon Warehouse. The Makita's are only 351.11 for saw alone(with case and blade) to begin with new, but if they show up on Amazon Warehouse it's a fantastic deal. And the case I received and I believe they still send is a Makita Tanos case.

The cost today on Amazon is 351.11 for the case and saw, 405.00 with the case, guide rail and saw and 413.90 with guide rail, case and connector kit.

There are some marked as used on Amazon Warehouse today, but back ordered. They are normally returns and like  I said mine appeared new. The cost is only 351.00 for a case, saw AND track(basically you get a track free) and 302.00 for case and saw.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00QJV6NJQ/ref=olp_twister_all?ie=UTF8&mv_style_name=all
 
I agree Dovetail, I think you get a lot of saw for your money with the Makita. 

As far as it not having a riving knife, I think as long as your work is well supported on both sides of the cut for thick material, you should be good to go.  If I am going through very thick wood, I generally take a scoring cut (using the built in scoring depth stop) and then finish the cut in two passes after that.  In terms of cutting through plywood of 1/2-3/4" thickness, I doubt you will run into any issues as long as support on both sides of the cut is good if you are breaking down large panels.  On top of that, the Makita rails have a small groove which the makita track saw tab runs in if desired to further decrease the chance of a dangerous kickback situation as it would be very difficult to pull the makita saw off of the track with the tab engaged in the groove.

A solid saw with very good power for cuts up to its depth capability.   

Cheers,
John
 
Kwolsen said:
.. I'm concerned about mixing products from different manufacturers in terms of compatibility.
...

If I just get the mft3 bare WITHOUT the angle unit(protractor head) and use the equivalent Mikita miter gauge device with the Mikita sp6000j1
Then there is dust collection, will the festool vac hoses fit with the makita?

is this downright nuts to mix products from diff manufacturers?

Bombs away, guys.

Thanks.

I Have an MFT with a Bosch rail attached, and the FT hose fits the other manufactures saw. It also fits a different manufactures sander and yet another's router.

Or The Bosch vacuum (if it is available in the US) is well regarded.

Basically most modern tools have decent compatibly. Rails less so.
But vacuum hoses all seem to be standardised.

The main downside to mix-n-match is you have to do more homework.
And the upside is less expence and/or tools that may better suit your needs.
 
Oh boy, after years and years of wanting to buy the ts 55 and finally being ready to get it, its not the first choice anymore.
[crying]
 
If you had read this forum and the multitude of posts in almost every case the guys that own or owned both the Makita and Festool TS 55 they favor the Makita. I know I prefer the Makita and have written multiple posts stating that. I owned the DeWalt, the TS 55 and 75 and the Makita. The Makita is more powerful than the TS 55 and at a price FAR cheaper.

My Makita just fell off a second story and it cracked. I am going out to buy a new Makita ASAP.

My Makita is fitted with a Festool plug it cord and I use it on Festool tracks everyday. I have done so for I think 7 years now.

SO have no worry, just get that little Makita, use it the Festool stuff, I assure you it's a perfect comnbination.
 
I also read other fora, and most people there, and people that I talk to that have used both, prefer the festool over the makita. (Mind that it these cases it's about the 220V version).

 
I can't comment on anything other than what's available here in the US and what I have purchased with my own money. I also can't comment on other forums posts, I don't read them, this is the forum I use. The Makita is more powerful than the TS 55 in my shop. I just don't see how anyone can argue the point and until they come over to my shop and show me I am wrong,, well I am just not wrong. I tested them side by side for months. Owned the TS 55, the TS 75 and the Makita.  I sold my TS 55 and 75 on this forum for a reason, I could of kept them all if I wanted too. The TS 75 was by far the best saw, it's just to big an heavy for my weak hands. And the  Makita beat out the TS 55 as far as power, my main concern. I will say it's time they update the Makita.

I purchase tools for work and I can purchase any tool I like, cost isn't an issue. And until that TS 55 gets a more powerful motor I can't use it. I would love to have the TS 55 as overall it's more of a finesse tool with better features than the Makita, but for me I need the most power in a lightweight package.

I don't see how the 240V version could be any better unless of course it has a more powerful motor, meaning it draws more current proportionally than the 110 version. Of course the 220V will draw less current, but generally the tools I have used that offer both 120V and 240 V versions offer exactly the same amount of power. Possibly the TS 55 120V verse 220V is the exception, I dont know. I haven't used the 240V version.

Maybe Ill buy the 240V and give it a try. I have a couple 240V Festool's in my shop.
 
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