Festool Belt sanders
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AlexThePalex
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GPowers said:PaulMarcel said:Like Michael, I'd take a 220V version of the belt sander; been wanting one for awhile. I need to plan a vacation where I can get one and pack lightly cuz it's huge
You better pack very light. The thing comes in a SYS Maxi!
In Europe you can buy them also without systainer.
rsdaniel said:
Michael is a very rare, unique (and super nice) individual who is driven to detail. I've met him personally and I believe he missed his calling -- an investigative reporter, research analyst or any profession requiring in-depth information. Time and time again I've seen him drill down into subjects and dig out tons of obscure but useful information.
Accolades to Michael! [thumbs up]
I have used an AEG HBSE75S since 1990 or so. I have been nursing it recently and was overjoyed ( I cross my fingers! ) that it may be able to last another twenty years, or until Festool starts selling their model, which is identical. It makes me happy that Festool has not seen fit to improve much on my AEG! Even if I had a wide belt thickness sander there are times when no other tool will work except my AEG with the sanding frame. It is a fine woodworking tool, not to be confused with a sander without frame. I pray I can continue to use it. This posting also points out the genius of the internet!
For some idea of the projects my AEG has been used on look at my website:
http://eastmanwoodworking.com/
For some idea of the projects my AEG has been used on look at my website:
http://eastmanwoodworking.com/
Michael Kellough
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Thanks Ron! I never considered being an investigative reporter but you're probably right about missing my calling, judging by my bank account...
I was asked about other belt sander/sanding frame options. These are only available outside of the US as far as I can tell.
The Makita 9903 is made to accept a simple stamped sheet metal sanding frame.
The pointed tabs facing inward fit into the shallow angled slots in the sides of the sander.
It's hard to tell if the mounting tabs are adjustable but they need to be in order to make the frame coplanar with the sanding platen. Even if they are not adjustable with a screw they could be adjusted with a hammer or pliers. Don't laugh, it can be very effective.
With this frame I think the tabs could easily flex enough to allow the platen to tilt if the sander is worked from the handle. I'd operate it from the frame instead.
For general sanding I prefer a frame with stiff bristles on the bottom like the Festool frame. This allows debris to be swept instead of lifting the sander. The Makita frame is flat on bottom (at least is should be) so it could ride up on debris and stop cutting. That isn't good but is way better than a design that allows it to cut too deeply at random, like a belt sander without a sanding frame.
The bad thing about the flat bottom frame is that a loose bit of abrasive can get ground into the work. For this reason this frame is better reserved for fine grits and could be said to be superior to the bristled frame because it can't be pushed down which can happen if you abuse a bristled frame.
Bosch has been making this form of belt sander for a long time.
The sanding frame looks like it is well made and the parts diagram makes it look like a lot of thought has gone into it.
A nice thing about the Bosch frame is that a smooth plastic cover is included. That would be handy if you had to sand down a plug type patch on a finished surface.
The platen should be graphite coated canvas when using a sanding frame. Both the canvas and the graphite conform to the chassis and work surface to assist in the coplanar adjustment. Break-in a new graphite platen by running it in the air a while to flatten the rough graphite particles and let the canvas tighten down to the chassis.
It looks like the two sanding frames will need different methods for adjustment. I'd prefer the Bosch since it can be adjusted in the upright working position. The Makita will need to be adjusted upside down using straightedges and a flat board. With either you'll need to test the fit by blocking the sanding frame from moving on the work surface and then running the sander for a second. Adjust until you get the broadest cut pattern you can. Even if it isn't a full rectangle at first that should improve as the graphite platen wears in.
This is the only belt sander with sanding frame available in NA at present. The sander gets poor reviews on belt tracking.
I was asked about other belt sander/sanding frame options. These are only available outside of the US as far as I can tell.
The Makita 9903 is made to accept a simple stamped sheet metal sanding frame.
The pointed tabs facing inward fit into the shallow angled slots in the sides of the sander.
It's hard to tell if the mounting tabs are adjustable but they need to be in order to make the frame coplanar with the sanding platen. Even if they are not adjustable with a screw they could be adjusted with a hammer or pliers. Don't laugh, it can be very effective.
With this frame I think the tabs could easily flex enough to allow the platen to tilt if the sander is worked from the handle. I'd operate it from the frame instead.
For general sanding I prefer a frame with stiff bristles on the bottom like the Festool frame. This allows debris to be swept instead of lifting the sander. The Makita frame is flat on bottom (at least is should be) so it could ride up on debris and stop cutting. That isn't good but is way better than a design that allows it to cut too deeply at random, like a belt sander without a sanding frame.
The bad thing about the flat bottom frame is that a loose bit of abrasive can get ground into the work. For this reason this frame is better reserved for fine grits and could be said to be superior to the bristled frame because it can't be pushed down which can happen if you abuse a bristled frame.
Bosch has been making this form of belt sander for a long time.
The sanding frame looks like it is well made and the parts diagram makes it look like a lot of thought has gone into it.
A nice thing about the Bosch frame is that a smooth plastic cover is included. That would be handy if you had to sand down a plug type patch on a finished surface.
The platen should be graphite coated canvas when using a sanding frame. Both the canvas and the graphite conform to the chassis and work surface to assist in the coplanar adjustment. Break-in a new graphite platen by running it in the air a while to flatten the rough graphite particles and let the canvas tighten down to the chassis.
It looks like the two sanding frames will need different methods for adjustment. I'd prefer the Bosch since it can be adjusted in the upright working position. The Makita will need to be adjusted upside down using straightedges and a flat board. With either you'll need to test the fit by blocking the sanding frame from moving on the work surface and then running the sander for a second. Adjust until you get the broadest cut pattern you can. Even if it isn't a full rectangle at first that should improve as the graphite platen wears in.
This is the only belt sander with sanding frame available in NA at present. The sander gets poor reviews on belt tracking.
Michael Kellough
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 7,096
To continue...
This is the old Elu/Dewalt sanding frame. It is kinda like the Bosch frame above in reverse but the side mounts are on single tie rod (part #36). To adjust the side to side angle of the Elu frame you have to loosen and then re-tighten a small screw while keeping everything flat. It was too frustrating for me so I just added shim stock to one of the sockets to level the frame on my old Elu.
The nice thing about the Elu is that it is fairly quiet compared to my AEG. But, that's because it is slow and weak.
The Bosch 1276 4" (105mm). This is the biggest belt sander to use a sanding frame that we ever have been able to buy in NA. I bought one several years ago after I was told Festool would not sell their belt sanders here.
The platen is cork and spring steel, not good. The steel is never flat and it warps when hot reducing the contact area to less than half that of the Festool 75mm (3") sander. I should have changed to a graphite platen but the frame adjustment is so frustratingly primitive compared to the Festool that I just went back to my AEG. The frame adjustment is pretty much the same as the smaller Bosch in the post above.
The Festool sanding frame is by far the best. The mounting blocks attach to the sander and can be adjusted so the frame is coplanar and un-torqued. If the blocks could not be adjusted and the actual connecting parts not perfectly machined then the frame would be twisted instead of flat. I haven't seen a picture of the underside of the Festool mounting blocks but on my old AEG there are set screws so the blocks can be perfectly adjusted.
Somebody scored big here. Now he just needs to import a sanding frame.
This is the old Elu/Dewalt sanding frame. It is kinda like the Bosch frame above in reverse but the side mounts are on single tie rod (part #36). To adjust the side to side angle of the Elu frame you have to loosen and then re-tighten a small screw while keeping everything flat. It was too frustrating for me so I just added shim stock to one of the sockets to level the frame on my old Elu.
The nice thing about the Elu is that it is fairly quiet compared to my AEG. But, that's because it is slow and weak.
The Bosch 1276 4" (105mm). This is the biggest belt sander to use a sanding frame that we ever have been able to buy in NA. I bought one several years ago after I was told Festool would not sell their belt sanders here.
The platen is cork and spring steel, not good. The steel is never flat and it warps when hot reducing the contact area to less than half that of the Festool 75mm (3") sander. I should have changed to a graphite platen but the frame adjustment is so frustratingly primitive compared to the Festool that I just went back to my AEG. The frame adjustment is pretty much the same as the smaller Bosch in the post above.
The Festool sanding frame is by far the best. The mounting blocks attach to the sander and can be adjusted so the frame is coplanar and un-torqued. If the blocks could not be adjusted and the actual connecting parts not perfectly machined then the frame would be twisted instead of flat. I haven't seen a picture of the underside of the Festool mounting blocks but on my old AEG there are set screws so the blocks can be perfectly adjusted.
Somebody scored big here. Now he just needs to import a sanding frame.
