Festool Burning wood....

[RichardClements]

Hello,

I just recently purchased a ts55 rail saw and have been using it for about three days now. On the forth day however the saw started to feel "tight" on the rail and required more force to move it than before, and due to this i am burning the edges of my plywood. I have checked both the blade speed (it gets "sticky" on all speeds) and made sure that the rail is clear from saw dust. I am cutting 12mm plywood. I am cutting rather small pieces of wood that require me to "bridge" the rail with other pieces of wood to keep the rail flat and level. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

Richard Clements

 

[Roseland]

My first thought is that one of the two adjusters that take up the lateral slack on the rail have been knocked, or are dirty - a speck of sawdust, perhaps.

If they are set correctly, I would try a light spray of dry (silicone) lubricant on the rail.

It seems a bit early to look for resin build up on the blade.

I regularly cut small pieces and bridge the rail as you described, so I don't think it's that.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

I just recently purchased a ts55 rail saw and have been using it for about three days now. On the forth day however the saw started to feel "tight" on the rail and required more force to move it than before, and due to this i am burning the edges of my plywood. I have checked both the blade speed (it gets "sticky" on all speeds) and made sure that the rail is clear from saw dust. I am cutting 12mm plywood. I am cutting rather small pieces of wood that require me to "bridge" the rail with other pieces of wood to keep the rail flat and level. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Welcome to the Festool Owners Group! Sorry to hear about your problem, but like Roseland suggested, it does sound as though the guiderail adjusters on the saw have moved.

I'd try this:

Place the guiderail on a flat surface like the floor (you're not going to be cutting anything for the moment)
Disconnect the saw from the electricity supply and clean the grooves on the bottom of the saw with a brush to remove dirt and sawdust
Likewise, clean the rail
Place the saw on the rail, and without plunging the saw, simply try to slide it along the rail.
It should glide along the rail with very little resistance, but on the other hand it should not be so loose that it moves from side to side.
If the saw is difficult to move along the rail, or it "jiggles" from side to side, adjust the green thumbscrews on the baseplate so that there is no side-to-side play, but the saw moves freely along the rail.

Once it moves nicely along the rail, try cutting your plywood and report back!

See page of 8 Rick Christopherson's excellent Supplemental Manual for the TS55 for a more detailed account of how to adjust the thumbwheels - and for loads of useful information on the saw.

Forrest

 

[Brice Burrell]

.........I regularly cut small pieces and bridge the rail as you described, so I don't think it's that.

I use this technique too. I do, however, believe this could be your problem. Smaller pieces can move as your cutting them, causing the strain and burns. If you have larger pieces try the saw on them and see it your getting the same results.

Another possibility (although less likely) is a toe adjustment problem.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Assuming the saw glides smoothly on the rail, I think the key is the small stuff
you're cutting. If you are ripping narrow stock that does not span across the width
of the guide rail you need to be aware that the guide rail in not flat on the bottom
and particularly that the splinter guard is not flat. By design it presses down only on
the outer edge so if your using a resilient material as a sacrificial cutting surface
the narrow work piece will tilt under the uneven pressure of the splinter guard
and this can cause burning in addition to un-square cuts.
In this case a hard sacrificial cutting surface is best.

Also, once you get a little burning, residue starts accumulating on the teeth
and you'll likely get more burning and more accumulation until the blade is cleaned.

 

[RichardClements]

Wow, thanks guys, i'll try all those things. I was working so sweetly the first days i thought i was in tool heaven! I'm sure it is one of those variables you guys have mentioned. I'll make sure to check 'em all out. Thanks so much!

I'll get back and let you know what the problem was!

Cheers!

Richard Clements

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Richard we would also like to welcome you to the forum.  If you are still having problems tomorrow, I would encourage you to call our toll free number (in my signature below) for assistance.  We'll be glad to help you get it resolved.

 

[anm8tr]

Richard we would also like to welcome you to the forum.  If you are still having problems tomorrow, I would encourage you to call our toll free number (in my signature below) for assistance.  We'll be glad to help you get it resolved.

Was the burning wood problem ever resolved? I have seen numerous posts on the problem and not one post with a final solution.  I have a new TS55 I have only used it three days now and have the same exact problem. I have only cut one 4x8 sheet of 3/4 Birch and one 5x5 sheet of 3/4 Baltic Birch.

The original Birch material has a combination core of MDF layered in and the saw cuts it like butter with no burning. The Baltic Birch is the material that burns when ripping or cross cutting. I also cut some scrap pieces of the regular Birch after the Baltic Birch and there is no burning at all. So it has something to do with the 48 tooth Comb. blade and Baltic Birch.  Speed setting is at 6, I also checked the depth of cut and set it as directed by the manual. The blade is clean!!

I guess I will call the 800 number since no one has bothered to post any resolutions here.

Regards.

 

[anm8tr]

I'm gonna go out on a limb and reckon it's the glue in the material that is reacting to the heat of the blade. I haven't cut any solid wood yet.

 

[peter halle]

It could be many things.  MDF core does not have a grain so the cutting is more even.  You may indeed have to experiment with speed.  It could be that your saw could use a tweak in the alignment to the base - that tweak is abut the thickness of a business card.  Have you experimented with blade depth - use a sacrificial surface underneath that is softer than wood?  Have you tried the universal 28 tooth blade - I think what came on the TS55?

Festool does have fabulous tech support people available during the week.  No matter what info you get here, it might also be a good idea to call so that you can talk with a real person and feel more comfortable.

Just my 2.2 cents worth.

Peter