Festool Carvex 420 (both corded & battery) - Comparisons

[Paul G]

Slightly off topic but this is the first time I've heard a corded tool referred to as a main, is that common language in parts other than here?

Referring to electricity that comes into a building from the "grid" as being from "the mains" is part of my vocabulary but, now that you question it, I realize that is a term that I picked up when I lived in the United Kingdom.  I guess that it is not in common use in North America.

In that I have lived in the United Kingdom, in the USA, and in different regions of Canada, I find that I frequently use terms that are not familiar to the folks I am speaking to.   [embarassed]

I guess that I should change the title of the thread to refer to "corded "and "battery".

Thanks for explaining the word origin. I don't mind it one bit, it's an opportunity to learn something new.

 

[Frank Pellow]

OK, I have more or less wrapped up testing of these saws.  

In the interest of fill disclosure, Festool generously let me keep the Carvex that I preferred.  I kept the battery power model and returned the mains powered one.

The Trion which has been a dependable and much used tool for almost two years is now for sale has now been sold and I will no longer be using it.

I am keeping the Bosch.

I can still do so testing if you have other tasks to suggest, but I can no longer do them with all four saws.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I gave the Carvex battery powered jigsaw an extensive workout today -as is described in the thread: http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/cactus-coat-rack/msg277664/?topicseen#msg277664

As I reported in that thread, I needed to re-charge the battery 5 times.  It is obvious that at least two batteries will be needed if one plans to use the saw on tasks like this.  In spite of this obvious fact, Festool only supplies one 18 volt battery with the saw.    [huh]    ???  When I decided to keep the saw that I had been allowed to test, the first thing that I did was to purchase a second battery.  The job would have been intolerable if I had not done so.  As it was, the battery being used almost continuously wore out long before the other battery was re-charged.  Perhaps, I need to purchase a third battery.  [unsure]  I used the lack of a charged battery as an excuse to goof off for a while, but I am retired and can afford to do this.

 

[Frank Pellow]

This morning, I did a follow-up test to determine just how long a battery under load would last.  I used scraps left over from my Cactus coat rack (see the thread: http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/cactus-coat-rack/msg277664/?topicseen#msg277664):

[attachthumb=#1]

With a fully charged 18 volt battery, the saw set at A speed, the light off, and using a fast scrolling blade, I ran two tests.  In the first test, I managed to cut for 14 minutes.  In the second, the saw cut for 16 minutes.

These times were less than I had expected.  [sad]

 

[fdengel]

I'm in the states and have heard "mains" being used in the above suggested way numerous times in the past.  Can't speak to how common it is everywhere or remember specifically where I've heard it, but it wouldn't have stood out to me as being completely foreign either.

It always bothers me when people use "electric" to distinguish from battery-powered as they are in fact the same thing... "corded" seems to be the favored term these days, and seems completely reasonable.

I guess both the corded and battery-powered Carvex can be "hosed"...  [laughing]

 

[ScotF]

This morning, I did a follow-up test to determine just how long a battery under load would last.  I used scraps left over from my Cactus coat rack (see the thread: http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/cactus-coat-rack/msg277664/?topicseen#msg277664):

[attachthumb=#1]

With a fully charged 18 volt battery, the saw set at A speed, the light off, and using a fast scrolling blade, I ran two tests.  In the first test, I managed to cut for 14 minutes.  In the second, the saw cut for 16 minutes.

These times were less than I had expected.  [sad]

Frank -- if you measured the length of each cut how many lineal feet of cutting would you estimate you cut on a charge?  I think that Steve Bace mentions it in one of the Carvex videos and I want to say, could be wrong here, but that it was 160 - 170 lineal feet or so.  I could see where the need for multiple batteries would be really important if using it for an extended session.  I guess I am happy that I opted for the corded version -- which for me works since I rarely need to cut anything outside of my shop.  Thanks for posting the update.   

 

[Frank Pellow]

Frank -- if you measured the length of each cut how many lineal feet of cutting would you estimate you cut on a charge?  I think that Steve Bace mentions it in one of the Carvex videos and I want to say, could be wrong here, but that it was 160 - 170 lineal feet or so.  I could see where the need for multiple batteries would be really important if using it for an extended session.  I guess I am happy that I opted for the corded version -- which for me works since I rarely need to cut anything outside of my shop.  Thanks for posting the update.    

Scot, I didn't actually measure the distance I cut but my guess would be about 15 metres.  So, that is a lot less than what you recall Steve saying.  

Of course the material being cut would effect the distance.  In my case, the material being I cut was 18 mm thick Baltic birch plywood.

I will eventually test distances in different types of material and report the results in this thread.  I don't know why I didn't think of doing so earlier.

 

[Tinker]

Frank -- if you measured the length of each cut how many lineal feet of cutting would you estimate you cut on a charge?  I think that Steve Bace mentions it in one of the Carvex videos and I want to say, could be wrong here, but that it was 160 - 170 lineal feet or so.  I could see where the need for multiple batteries would be really important if using it for an extended session.  I guess I am happy that I opted for the corded version -- which for me works since I rarely need to cut anything outside of my shop.  Thanks for posting the update.    

Scot, I didn't actually measure the distance I cut but my guess would be about 15 metres.  So, that is a lot less than what you recall Steve saying.  

Of course the material being cut would effect the distance.  In my case, the material being I cut was 18 mm thick Baltic birch plywood.

I will eventually test distances in different types of material and report the results in this thread.  I don't know why I didn't think of doing so earlier.

Frank,
How could you? [poke]
Tinker

 

[tallgrass]

Am I the only one who finds the inability it cut an angle with both the circle cutter and the track guide annoying? I can due it with my old Festool jig saw but not the new one. I guess the need to cut an angled radius or a beveled strait cut no longer are needed. I am glad I did not get rid of my old one when I got the new one. Is any one else curious about this?

 

[Frank Pellow]

Am I the only one who finds the inability it cut an angle with both the circle cutter and the track guide annoying? I can due it with my old Festool jig saw but not the new one. I guess the need to cut an angled radius or a beveled strait cut no longer are needed. I am glad I did not get rid of my old one when I got the new one. Is any one else curious about this?

I do find this annoying but not insermountable.  As I demonstrated in reply #78 in this thread, such tasks can be accomplished in two passes.

 

[Paul G]

Am I the only one who finds the inability it cut an angle with both the circle cutter and the track guide annoying? I can due it with my old Festool jig saw but not the new one. I guess the need to cut an angled radius or a beveled strait cut no longer are needed. I am glad I did not get rid of my old one when I got the new one. Is any one else curious about this?

I do find this annoying but not insermountable.  As I demonstrated in reply #78 in this thread, such tasks can be accomplished in two passes.

That technique only works if the finish edge is convex correct?

 

[Frank Pellow]

Am I the only one who finds the inability it cut an angle with both the circle cutter and the track guide annoying? I can due it with my old Festool jig saw but not the new one. I guess the need to cut an angled radius or a beveled strait cut no longer are needed. I am glad I did not get rid of my old one when I got the new one. Is any one else curious about this?

I do find this annoying but not insermountable.  As I demonstrated in reply #78 in this thread, such tasks can be accomplished in two passes.

That technique only works if the finish edge is convex correct?

It can be very slightly concave but, for the most part, you are correct.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

I'm a Carvex 420 user, I got the 15v 3mAh model to save money with the intention of getting a drill with the new 18v 4.2mAh batteries. IMO that's the smartest way to upgrade your battery park. Then each additional battery spreads out the cost of having cordless tools in mulitple, with say four batteries for two tools you can always be charging 2 of them in a Jigsaw session then say one in use one on standby, and two in the chargers...

I just love using a jigsaw without a cable for outdoor work, it's the one tool that benefits the most from being freed from it's cable from a egronomics point of view.. Of course this only if you don't us Dust extraction..

 

[tallgrass]

I have reread post 78. I do. It think that technique will give the same quality of cut as a single pass guide created cut. While you suggest a plausible solution, I think it is still a design short coming that should not exist for a tool company that produces tools of this quality.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I have reread post 78. I do. It think that technique will give the same quality of cut as a single pass guide created cut. While you suggest a plausible solution, I think it is still a design short coming that should not exist for a tool company that produces tools of this quality.

I agree with your statement that I have marked in bold.  [sad]

I wonder if we will see after market bases to solve these problems?  ???  I am thinking of a couple of designs that might work and might experiment with them sometime down the road -not to manuafacture but just to see if I can do it for my own use.

 

[ScotF]

I have reread post 78. I do. It think that technique will give the same quality of cut as a single pass guide created cut. While you suggest a plausible solution, I think it is still a design short coming that should not exist for a tool company that produces tools of this quality.

I agree with your statement that I have marked in bold.  [sad]

I wonder if we will see after market bases to solve these problems?  ???  I am thinking of a couple of designs that might work and might experiment with them sometime down the road -not to manuafacture but just to see if I can do it for my own use.

Yes...this is a short coming for this application.  I think one type of cut is easy to do with a simple plate screwed to the angle base, but for circles it is an issue for sure and it would require a new style base.  Maybe the plate could easily adapt the clips of the circle cutter.  I am going to have to play around with this...

 

[Frank Pellow]

Frank -- if you measured the length of each cut how many lineal feet of cutting would you estimate you cut on a charge?  I think that Steve Bace mentions it in one of the Carvex videos and I want to say, could be wrong here, but that it was 160 - 170 lineal feet or so.  I could see where the need for multiple batteries would be really important if using it for an extended session.  I guess I am happy that I opted for the corded version -- which for me works since I rarely need to cut anything outside of my shop.  Thanks for posting the update.    

Scot, I didn't actually measure the distance I cut but my guess would be about 15 metres.  So, that is a lot less than what you recall Steve saying.  

Of course the material being cut would effect the distance.  In my case, the material being I cut was 18 mm thick Baltic birch plywood.

I will eventually test distances in different types of material and report the results in this thread.  I don't know why I didn't think of doing so earlier.

I did do the some tests but decided to report them in a separate thread.  That thread is: http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/battery-(18-volt)-carvex-420-distance-tests-in-many-types-of-wood/#new

 

[Frank Pellow]

Even after 8 months of frequent use, I still don't like the position of the switches nor the fact that one pushes forward on a switch in order to turn it off.

When I first tried the saw, I commented:

• I am used to operating the trigger with my thumb and this is not easily done now that the switches are so far forward.  I expect that I will get used to operating the switch with a finger, but that is going to take me some time.  The new position of the switch would take some getting used to.  
  

After using it for about a month, I said:

• Another difference from my other Festool tools is that one pushes on the switch again to shut off the Carvex saws rather than pull back on the switch.  Today, I had an experience that warned me to get use to it soon.  I needed to shut off the saw quickly but it took me about 5 second to locate the switch.  All that happened as a result of this delay was a somewhat screwed up cut, but it could have been much worse.  

I really did think I would get accustomed to the strange location and operation of the switch but this is not happening.  That's a shame because, otherwise, I love the saw.

 

[jmbfestool]

Even after 8 months of frequent use, I still don't like the position of the switches nor the fact that one pushes forward on a switch in order to turn it off.

When I first tried the saw, I commented:

• I am used to operating the trigger with my thumb and this is not easily done now that the switches are so far forward.  I expect that I will get used to operating the switch with a finger, but that is going to take me some time.  The new position of the switch would take some getting used to.  
  

After using it for about a month, I said:

• Another difference from my other Festool tools is that one pushes on the switch again to shut off the Carvex saws rather than pull back on the switch.  Today, I had an experience that warned me to get use to it soon.  I needed to shut off the saw quickly but it took me about 5 second to locate the switch.  All that happened as a result of this delay was a somewhat screwed up cut, but it could have been much worse.  

I really did think I would get accustomed to the strange location and operation of the switch but this is not happening.  That's a shame because, otherwise, I love the saw.

I totally agree! 

Thing is I am accustomed to the switch but in situations where you suddenly need to switch the Carvex of because you hit something making your carvex bounce no mater how accustomed you are you ain't finding the switch very fast!

What I have starting doing now is just quickly pull the jigsaw away from the work piece as soon as something like this happens.

Jmb

 

[Jason Kehl]

Perhaps I missed it if someone adresses this already, but for the Carvex 420 users; how effective are the improvments to cut-line visibility over the Trion?  I do a wide variety of carpentry work and one use is to cut holes in 1.5" thick green treated decking where the deck newel posts go. Will I be able to see the cut-line with no vac attached to pull the dust away? Does visibility depend on the use, or lack of use of the splinter guard?

Thanks guys

J