Festool dovetail and box joint jigs

tpaton

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Jan 10, 2011
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anyone aware of any video's or tutorials on using Festool's jigs for dovetails or box joints.
 
I would recommend Jerry Work's manual referenced in Bob's link.  It is a huge timesaver.  He has 'done the math' for metric dovetail layouts and has a great table that simplifies your design. 

One thing you learn quickly with Festool dovetailing - design in metric.  Using both imperial and metric will drive you nuts. 
 
I am amazed that there is so little here on the Festool dovetail jig. I have used mine for fancy wood drawers and big stable Tack boxes. I'm about to be making a set of cabinets and drawers in 6mm poplar ply and box joint is about the only rational joint for this size stuff. I was just looking for some hints on set up but maybe I'm the guy to post my results. Does anyone use the Festool jig?
 
I think it was only available for a few years. It did not compare well to the versatility of the Leigh dovetail jig in terms of actually cutting dovetails but it did allow making a much longer row of dovetails, about 22”?

Also, it had an optional template to make a row of dowel holes, which is why I bought one and remains the only use I put it to. It did solve the problem but I wish I could have bought a Mafell doweler instead.
 
I didn't even know there ever was one. Is in still available in Europe? They just stopped it here and didn't discontinue it totally?
I have had a Leigh for many years. It has always been good to me, I haven't used it in a while though.
The Shaper Origin or DF500 have done the joinery for the last few years.
The company I worked for had a floor-model Grizzly dovetail machine. It was quick and easy, always ready to go, but all it could do is half-blind. As much as I dislike the uniformity of machine-cut half blinds, for some reason box joints with Origin really appeal to me. I think it's because the pin spacing has nothing to do with bit size.
 
@Crazyraceguy , I just checked the Festool Uk site and the VS-600 is still around. I would venture a guess that it didn't help the acceptance of it here that it relied on the Festool router bits with their 8 mm shanks. I remember a visit to Festool and they had a box (large) with a sign on it for employees to feel free to take some of the contents for free. They were VS-600 templates.

Leigh was much more adjustable and versatile and accepted by woodworkers - even with its learning curve.

Peter
 
@Crazyraceguy , I just checked the Festool Uk site and the VS-600 is still around. I would venture a guess that it didn't help the acceptance of it here that it relied on the Festool router bits with their 8 mm shanks. I remember a visit to Festool and they had a box (large) with a sign on it for employees to feel free to take some of the contents for free. They were VS-600 templates.

Leigh was much more adjustable and versatile and accepted by woodworkers - even with its learning curve.

Peter
The Leigh bits are 8mm too. Back when I first got mine, I had to use an adaptor, with a 1/2" collet.
Some people are apprehensive of that kind of adjustability. It adds complexity, along with additional tools required to move the fingers. You also have the flip over and depth adjustment. That doesn't take tools, but it sure isn't "cut both pieces at once" easy either.
 
@Crazyraceguy , I just checked the Festool Uk site and the VS-600 is still around. I would venture a guess that it didn't help the acceptance of it here that it relied on the Festool router bits with their 8 mm shanks. I remember a visit to Festool and they had a box (large) with a sign on it for employees to feel free to take some of the contents for free. They were VS-600 templates.

Leigh was much more adjustable and versatile and accepted by woodworkers - even with its learning curve.

Peter
The 1010 router has 1/4" collet too.
The process for the Festool jig is complicated but very accurate. Not only does it follow the fingers but it has a lip that prevents the router tipping or timing up on any debris. Probably minor things. It's the only one I've used. I got the router Jig and all templates for $500 so it seemed like a good thing. I guess I'm on my own working out a good process for my boxes.
 
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