Festool jigsaw and guide rail?

[Toolpig]

Often, when cutting cabinet parts, I stop the plunge-cut saw in the middle of a board and have to "finish" the cut with a handsaw or jigsaw.  The results are not always perfect.

A better option, in my opinion, would be to finish the cut using a jigsaw paired with the Festool guide-rail.  Will the Festool jigsaw work with the same guide-rail used for the saws & routers?

TP

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

There is a guide rail adapter available for the Trion.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/festool/product/490031

Shane

 

[Hotwheels]

There is a guide rail adapter available for the Trion.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/festool/product/490031

Shane

I have a Meta bo jig saw that looks very much like the Festool jig saw. I can attach the CT22 and it works like a charm. I have the same need as toolpig for using something other than a hand saw to finalize a cut and other applications where using the guide rail with a jig saw would be helpful.

Any idea if the Festool guide stop would fit a very similar looking Metabo?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

John,

The best I can probably do is give the dimensions for the opening for the jigsaw base.  I went and grabbed one of these from the warehouse so I have it here in my office.  So I went ahead and snapped a few photos that may help you determine if it might work for you. 

The width of the opening is 68mm and the length is 157mm and the depth from the top retaining clip to the bottom clip is about 10mm.

Shane

 

[Dan Lyke]

Just to note, that clips on the opposite side of the rail than you're used to using, but, yeah, I've got it and used it and like it.

 

[Toolpig]

What I'd like to be able to do is "start" the cut with the TS55 using the guide rail.  Then, I'd like to remove the saw from the rail and put the jigsaw right on (without having the reposition the guide rail to finish the cut with the jigsaw).

Is this possible with this adapter?

TP

 

[Brian 57]

Toolpig,
Since you can plunge cut with the Trion (freehand), for thinner materials is it an option to make a small starter plunge cut with the Trion and finish with the Trion on the guide rail, giving a more consistent cut.
I suggest this since I understand that the quality of cut of the Trion on thinner material is excellent, but not so good on thicker material, (>1").
Regards 

 

[Per Swenson]

Toolpig,

Nope, you need to flip the rail around.

This attachment hangs off the other side.

I have no problem doing this though.

A little math and a pencil.

Per

 

[Toolpig]

Ooooh... I'm not good at math.  That's why I got the TS55!  8)

 

[Daviddubya]

Toolpig - You might consider making the entire cut with the jig saw on the rail.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Toolpig, your post got me thinking, try this:

I ripped a 1/4 piece of MDF to go against the rail and to the baseplate of the jigsaw baseplate so the blade can cut right on the  Splinter Guard on the rail.
Brice

 

[Toolpig]

I thought about that, but occasionally the cut needs to be "joint" quality.  Not sure I could get that with the jigsaw (I'm guessing).

TP

Toolpig - You might consider making the entire cut with the jig saw on the rail.

 

[Toolpig]

I like the idea, but doesn't the jigsaw get a little tippy doing it that way?  The base of the saw isn't fully supported by the guide-rail.

The plastic base for the Festool seems like the best option, despite having to flip the guide end-for-end.  It does seem like an afterthought, though.  Very un-Festool-like.

Festool, are you listening??????  Get your engineers working on this!  ;D

TP

Toolpig, your post got me thinking, try this:

I ripped a 1/4 piece of MDF to go against the rail and to the baseplate of the jigsaw baseplate so the blade can cut right on the  Splinter Guard on the rail.
Brice

 

[Brice Burrell]

I like the idea, but doesn't the jigsaw get a little tippy doing it that way?  The base of the saw isn't fully supported by the guide-rail.

Sorta, note left hand on the base of the saw, it makes about as good a cut as my jig saw can, perfect no, but pretty good.
Brice

 

[mxlars]

I'm not a cabinetmaker, but what I do when I need to sneak up to a endcut in a board is using a full plunge and the blade start/end indicators on the saw's base, or the blade startindicator on the green splinterguard to get a clean cut all the way.
Not an option on thicker materials with the TS55, but I'm mostly handling 3/4" or less, so it works fine for me.