Festool LR32 Hole Drilling vs others

[peter halle]

I have been on a cleaning spree and  have come across so many 32 mm drilling solutions for shelf pin holes and more.

I know that the LR 32 system is pricey, but after I look at what I used and was not happy with, and had its limitations, and ...

A question:  For those who have the LR 32 system - Any regrets?  Would you recommend to others?

Peter

 

[ThomasC]

Peter,

I've been happy with my purchase of the LR-32 system. Like you, if I added up the cost of everything I tried (and was dissatisfied with) prior to that purchase, it would likely be pretty close to the cost of the LR-32. As you know, there are many videos and tutorials related to the system. They are quite helpful, as there are a few aspects of the system that are less than intuitive. I sometimes view tools this way: "If it were to be stolen, would I replace it with the same tool?" In the case of the LR-32, my answer would be "yes". I do keep a couple of other jigs around, as well. Occasionally I need to add a row of shelf pin holes to an existing cabinet (already built and in place). As far as I know, the LR-32 will not help you in this situation. You'll need to revert back some type of jig with a self-centering bit. Let me know if you have any specific questions. I'll be glad to offer my opinions.

TC

 

[ccarrolladams]

I have been on a cleaning spree and  have come across so many 32 mm drilling solutions for shelf pin holes and more.

I know that the LR 32 system is pricey, but after I look at what I used and was not happy with, and had its limitations, and ...

A question:  For those who have the LR 32 system - Any regrets?  Would you recommend to others?

Peter

I have absolutely no regrets about buying my first OF1010 along with the LR32 kit. That was so long ago (2006) that the 55" (1400mm) guide rail with holes was not available. Since I did not have space for the 95" rail, I would couple my shorter rail to a non-hole 55" when I needed to make tall cabinets with LR32 holes. I needed to carefully reposition that system so the holes all were on 32mm centers.

Previously I owned a line boring machine with 25 drills. What a PIA, because to skip holes I needed to remove certain drills. Then I needed to be sure I put those back in the correct chucks for the next set-up.

With the Festool system all it takes is a wax pencil mark on the rail indicating the holes to be skipped.

In an ideal world all Festools with a complete assortment of accessories would be available for rent by those who seldom need certain tools. Alas, in the Greater Los Angeles area no such rental facility exists.

When woodworkers ask my opinion, in turn I ask how often they expect to need to drill LR32 holes and how much time on each project can be devoted to this function. I cannot remember anyone asking me about LR32 set-ups who did not already own at least one router, almost always taking 1/2" shanks.

Look at the Festool price list and you will find the OF1010 is their least expensive plunge router. There is a theory that since the OF1400 can be attached to the LR32 kit, it works well for hole drilling. In my experience this is not the case. Installing an OF1400 on the hole guide takes much longer than attaching and centering the OF1010. Because the OF1400 plunges more, this means for every hole drilled you are pushing the OF1400 longer. Because the greater weight of the OF1400 the plunge return springs are stiffer. So, not only are you plunging longer, you are doing so against greater resistance. This is not an issue for a few holes, but for me is a major deal breaker when making hundreds of holes, as I do on a typical day.

I own all of the current Festool routers. In fact I own several each OF1010 and MFK700, so I do not need to change set-ups between operations. The OF1400 and the OF2200 each have many uses. My experience is that neither is effective drilling 5mm and 8mm holes.

Personally I do not like using 1/4" and 8mm shank drills or bits in routers more powerful than 1010 watts. I own extra OF1010 besides the 2 I keep dedicated to hole drilling because when I use 1/4" shank smaller bits I do not want the power of an OF1400.

As soon as I had space I did buy a 95" guide rail with holes. When the 55" guide rail with holes became available in the USA I paid the extra to include that with my next TS55. These new LR32 coupling spacers make it super practical to accurately connect hole rails to make them longer.

Yes, I do own a very nice CNC nested router. Programing it to either skip holes or drill them on non-LR32 spacing (which I need to do often) is fairly simple. However, we still drill hundreds of 5mm and 8mm LR32 holes daily using guide rails and the LR32 kit attached to OF1010.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I don't own the Festool system, but I have built my own jigs for the 32mm hole system and used them with success in the past when I was building lots and lots of cabinets.  

Last week at the Cabinet Construction class, I tried the Festool system for the first time:

[attachthumb=#1]

and I really liked it.  If I ever find myself with a large bunch  (say 12 or more) of cabinets to build on some future project, I might decide to buy it (including the 1010 router even though I alreay have a 1400).   It would save time over my jigs and the Festool system is more fun to use.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Peter,

I too have used those hole drilling jigs prior to getting the LR32 system.  I use mine with the OF1400 and either a single FS1400 LR32 rail or joined to another FS1400 LR32 rail.  I wish I had bought the FS2424 LR32 rail.  It is a PITA joining them up to keep accurate hole spacing, but I did some accurate measurements and it turns out that with my rails, leaving an 8mm gap between them is dead on using the regular rail connectors.  Sometimes I don't get a smooth transition when crossing from one rail to the other.

Unlike Carroll, I don't mind the extra plunging of the OF1400.  Consider it excercise.  [big grin]  The holes are so much more precise and cleaner, more professional looking than the Vix bit jigs.

 

[Wonderwino]

I have a jig thjat uses vix bits to drill shelf holes, but it has been idle ever since getting the LR32 system and the OF1010.  I find the LR32 to be much faster, more accurate and versitile than the other jig.  I would never give it up after using it for several years, especially after seeing Brice's method of repetitve setups using the parallel guides.  It's part of a system that can easily be taken advantage of. 

 

[Jeff Hein]

I just used my LR32 for the first time yesterday on some cabinets. I drilled all of the holes perfectly for 6 cabinets in no time at all. I am thinking I saved at least an hour versus my small drill jig that was not all that accurate.

All of my shelf pins lined up perfectly as well...no wobbly shelves.

It was a lot of money, but after using it I do not regret it.

 

[harry_]

Peter,

I just used my LR-32 setup for the first time last week after buying it over a year ago just before the 55" drilled rails came out. Once I could remember how to do the setup (it's been a long time since class) it was pretty easy. Even with using a 1040mm rail on 96" panels it was still a pleasure to use.

On the 96" panels, I had to move the rail twice per run of holes.
Was this a pain in the backside? Yeah, but not unbearably so.
Did I wish I had the longer rail? Absolutely.

The edge stops allowed me to keep all the hole in line down the length. Then all I had to do was get it lined up for the 32mm. This was easy enough to do by plunging and then locking the router, setting it a hole, then sliding the rail until it clicked in. Done. Figuring this out did not cause smoke to emit from my ears because I had to think it through, nor did it wear me out physically. It was just a few extra steps because I was not ready to spring for the longer rail.

In the end, I think that the system ROCKS. I only wish that I got to use mine more often. If I did, I would definitely get the longer rail!

As an aside:
I originally purchased an OF1010 router, which I exchanged for the OF1400. While I absolutely LOVE my OF1400, it is a lot of router for drilling those itty bitty holes. If I did these a lot I would get the OF1010 and task it for the purpose. But there again, it is not worth the investment for the amount of them that I actually do.

 

[Sparktrician]

I've been using the Econo-Bore line boring jig from MEG Products (http://megproducts.com/econo-bore32.html) ever since I saw Norm Abrams using the aluminum version on one of the New Yankee Workshop shows, and long before I ever heard of Festool's LR32 system.  It has worked flawlessly with my older P-C 8529 router with a 5/8" collar and a 5mm brad-point bit.  The holes are dead-on, and have excellent perpendicularity to the material, meaning no sloppy holes and wobbly shelves.  That having been said, I will likely add the LR32 to my Festool system when it is most appropriate.  Until then the Econo-Bore will work just fine for my needs. 

[smile]

 

[VictorL]

The most important part of LR-32 is that this system is NOT just a jig for just a random shelf pins holes. It works for Euro hinges AND doors too. However it's required some planing and careful design.
Another good thing that you can buy parts you need at the current moment.

Regards,
VictorL

 

[Programmergeek]

Well it is one of the only festool things I regret buying, but let me explain.  I ahve not used it in a while because I fear it.  Set up is not painless, make sure your rail is clamped tight.  I had to get the long rale you can't just move the rale down easly, some people have made jigs, tried other thngs, to bad they don't make a kit to splice rails together or for that matter just drill all there rales with holes. 

However when it does work the holes are perfect the router does a better job tan any drill I used. and it s fast.  Look at it carefully and try setting it up before buying.  I think this could of used a little more thought but if you are careful and know what you are doing it works. 

 

[peter halle]

Well it is one of the only festool things I regret buying, but let me explain.  I ahve not used it in a while because I fear it.  Set up is not painless, make sure your rail is clamped tight.  I had to get the long rale you can't just move the rale down easly, some people have made jigs, tried other thngs, to bad they don't make a kit to splice rails together or for that matter just drill all there rales with holes.  

However when it does work the holes are perfect the router does a better job tan any drill I used. and it s fast.  Look at it carefully and try setting it up before buying.  I think this could of used a little more thought but if you are careful and know what you are doing it works.  

I appreciate your comments.  I use my Festools a lot, but it might be a while before I use the same accessory again.  Relearning / remembering set up instructions is always necessary for me.  Just to let you know, there will be coming an accessory to join the drilled rails together.  It is already in other parts of the world.  Also, more models of rails are now available with the ovals "drilled" in them.

Thanks again!

Peter

 

[ccarrolladams]

I appreciate your comments.  I use my Festools a lot, but it might be a while before I use the same accessory again.  Relearning / remembering set up instructions is always necessary for me.  Just to let you know, there will be coming an accessory to join the drilled rails together.  It is already in other parts of the world.  Also, more models of rails are now available with the ovals "drilled" in them.

Thanks again!

Peter

No need to wait! The LR32 Guide Rail Connector, cat 496 938, is shown as item #5 on page 88 of the 2011/2012 NA catalog. Not only are they available in NA, many dealers have them in stock. These also serve as linear stops after being used to ensure the 32mm spacing when connecting two drilled rails.

Just this afternoon I ordered another set of cat 496 938. They are sold as a set of 2. I know I had a set of them with me when I was in Henderson for the February Solid Surface class.

 

[peter halle]

Carroll,

I was not aware that they were available now.  I thought that they had been added to the catalog in advance and would be coming soon, sooner, soonest.

Thanks for clarifying.

Peter

PS:  Dealers might want to announce that they have these in stock.  Others are also waiting to buy!

 

[tbellemare]

I have them in stock, for now anyway...

Tom

 

[Corwin]

...  Also, more models of rails are now available with the ovals "drilled" in them.

Oh?   [scratch chin]   Currently, I only see where Festool offers the FS-1400/2-LR32 and the FS-2424/2-LR32 rails, as the older FS-1080-LR32 rail has been discontinued in favor of the new 1400mm rail.  Are there other rails that are not listed on the FestoolUSA website?  Or, were you making fun of the error listing the longer rail as FS-12424/2-LR32?  -- that would be one long holy rail.    [tongue]

 

[peter halle]

...  Also, more models of rails are now available with the ovals "drilled" in them.

Oh?   [scratch chin]   Currently, I only see where Festool offers the FS-1400/2-LR32 and the FS-2424/2-LR32 rails, as the older FS-1080-LR32 rail has been discontinued in favor of the new 1400mm rail.  Are there other rails that are not listed on the FestoolUSA website?  Or, were you making fun of the error listing the longer rail as FS-12424/2-LR32?  -- that would be one long holy rail.    [tongue]

Corwin,

Caught me in an error again  [oops]  I have edited my previous post - happily.  [big grin]

Peter

 

[Brice Burrell]

The most important part of LR-32 is that this system is NOT just a jig for just a random shelf pins holes. It works for Euro hinges AND doors too. However it's required some planing and careful design.
Another good thing that you can buy parts you need at the current moment.

Regards,
VictorL

Yes, design is key to making use of most any 32mm jig but it is particularly true of the LR32.  Frankly, I think making the jump from understanding how the LR32 works to adapting your cabinet design to take advantage of it beyond basic shelf pin holes is where most users get lost.  It's not terribly complicated if you have some understanding of 32mm cabinet construction.       

 

[bruegf]

Peter,

I've only used the LR32 once so far, but expect to use it extensively later this year when I redo my kitchen.  Set up is critical, but it works very well and don't regret the purchase. 

I did have trouble the first time I've used it, but through no fault of the LR32.  I used it on the closet door bookshelf project I posted here a couple years ago.  I had a number of things that weren't quite perfect and since the shelves were only wide enough to hold a paperback book those very minor errors ended up with shelves that rocked.  I did manage to find and correct the issues I had and redid the holes (after routing the misaligned holes out w/ a rabbet, gluing in a new strip, and then veneering over the side panels so you couldn't see my repairs.

With the wider shelves used in kitchen cabinets, I don't expect to have any problems and in fact think they would have been fine even with the problems I first had on the bookshelf closet door project.

It works very well and there's NO DUST.

Fred

 

[dwillis]

I started out with a Veritas jig from Lee-Valley Tool for drilling shelf pins and found that setup was difficult and time consuming (yes I even read the manual).  After one frustrating project I took the plunge into the LR-32 system and could not be happier.  Plus the added benefit over the Veritas system is the Festool cutters leave a cleaner hole.  Now I just have to figure out w to repurpose the Veritas system...