Festool LR32, how-To
- Thread starter Brice Burrell
- Start date
butzla
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- Feb 5, 2008
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- 1,233
No the cases are not assembled. They're 12" deep. How did Chris cut the second row of holes if he referenced off of the same end that he cut the first row? Obviously, he used another piece of stock to support the rails but I just wonder how to get the 2 roles of holes to line up perfectly. I hope this makes sense.
I see that, unfortunately, Chris has a restricted status here so he can not answer himself. I found him in the other forum and sent him a PM over there, however. That's too bad we have to use these kind of work arounds. It log-jams info.
I see that, unfortunately, Chris has a restricted status here so he can not answer himself. I found him in the other forum and sent him a PM over there, however. That's too bad we have to use these kind of work arounds. It log-jams info.
mastercabman
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- Apr 15, 2007
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- 1,854
Flip the fence over.Stoolman said:
mastercabman
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- Apr 15, 2007
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- 1,854
stoolman,all you have to do is use those stops that comes with the hole drilling kit.Stoolman said:
Set them on each side of the guide rail(make sure that both are showing either 16mm 0r 32mm facing up)
When you are done drilling one row,flip the guide rail and use the other stop.
I hope this make sense.
Dave Ronyak
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- Jan 23, 2007
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- 2,234
Please permit me to respectfully disagree with what many others have said, although what they wrote is correct and the recommended conventional way to achieve the desired result of having the shelf pin holes line up in terms of elevation. But I have found that laying out a couple of precisely drawn pencil lines (parallel to the top or bottom and perpendicular to the front and back edges of the cabinet or bookcase side piece to drilled with shelf-pin holes can serve quite adequately. I used a Woodpeckers 18" carpenter's triangular square and one of the HD slides to layout 5 rows of holes in each side of a storage cabinet that was ~7ft tall and ~26 inches deep. The line drawn with the precision square assured that the holes needed for any shelf or slide would be at the same elevation and parallel to the bottom of the cabinet. I used one of the slides itself to mark the position of the columns of holes to be drilled with the LR 32. If all the holes (5 rows in each cabinet side) line up with one another to enable level installation of all 10 screws for each HD slide, this is clearly accurate enough. This method assumes that the cabinet sides have been carefully cut which I did using a TS 55 and guide rail, and that a large precision square is available for your use. The Festool side stops and end stops for the LR 32 simply would not work for my storage cabinet project; they do not have sufficient range relative to the LR 32 guide rail and size of the cabinet side components I was working with.
Re drilling bits with a 10 mm shank, I note that the cover insert of the Systainer supplied with my OF 1400 there is listed a 10 mm collet part number. Sorry I don't have it with me at this writing. I'm going to ask Bob Marino if he can get one for me! IF not, it should be possible to ream out a 3/8 inch collet which is also available for this router.
Updated 25Feb2010:
I now have the 10 mm collet. I have not purchased any 10 mm shank boring bits yet.
Dave R.
Re drilling bits with a 10 mm shank, I note that the cover insert of the Systainer supplied with my OF 1400 there is listed a 10 mm collet part number. Sorry I don't have it with me at this writing. I'm going to ask Bob Marino if he can get one for me! IF not, it should be possible to ream out a 3/8 inch collet which is also available for this router.
Updated 25Feb2010:
I now have the 10 mm collet. I have not purchased any 10 mm shank boring bits yet.
Dave R.
