Festool Parallel Guides vs SawStop Contractor Saw

Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Messages
145
Posted on another forum but thought I might gets some ideas here.

Well, here we go.

I love using the TS 75 and the rail (just finished a Norm Router Table with it) but repeatability is an issue.  Enter the Parallel Guide Set vs the SawStop Contractor.

Positives of the PGS:        Negatives of the PGS:

Repeatability                              Learning Curve
Already have the TS 75                More timely to set up?
Dust Collection
Safety
Accuracy
Cost
Portability (as my home shop
changes homes inside/outside
of my home)

Positive of the SS Contractor:    Negatives of the SS:                   
Repeatability                              Cost ($1700+)
Safety                                      Learning Curve (don't use/have not use                                     
Accuracy                                    TS that much)
                                                Not as easily transported

Any other comments by the users of the Parallel Guides?

Regards,
Chuck
 
Based on what you have shared, I would try the Parallel Guides.  They can be a little irritating to change setups, but work well.  Do you also have an MFT? 

Make sure you read Brice Burrell's Review and Jerry Work's Review.  Sorry if I missed any other member's reviews. 

It has taken me a long time to move away from using a tablesaw, and I am still not completely there.  There are still a few times when it is just a little more convenient/comfortable. 
 
hi chuck, i was in the same dilemma as you, just a few weeks ago!
i needed a table saw that was precise, portable and easy to use.

i cant give you a comparison with the parallel guides, but i did decide the ts-75 combined with the cms-ge set was the perfect set up for me.

i understand this is not available in the US yet, but i have read on this website that the cms will be coming  to the US soon.

i guess it depends on whether you can hold off and wait for the cms or not.

the sawstop looks great and is very precise, i think it is a fantastic product, but at 110kg, there is no way i was lifting that on and off my truck every day for construction work!

the festool cms weighs in at 35-40kg and is more manageable for me.

ironically, a few days after buying the cms, i was awarded a contract to build 180 townhouses, which are all steel framed and steel roofing. so the cms is sitting quietly in my workshop right now. i only get to play with it at the weekends, i was hoping to review it properly, but i will be busy for a while now erecting steel frames!

if you want any further info about the cms, dont hesitate to ask.

regards, justin.

 
I love my FS-PA/VL.  I use it all the time and here's what I have to say.....

WHY ARE YOU STILL SITTING THERE?  If she's ok with you getting a SawStop get your butt in gear and MOVE!    Don't pass go, don't collect $200 just get down to the Woodcraft or Tool King or where ever and BUY IT.  Quick man, before she changes her mind!  The FS-PA with the VL option is only $325, it can wait.  You can ask for the parallel guide for Christmas or for your birthday or something.  This transcends any type of rational analysis, this is something deeper, a primordial thing.  Go get the the saw.  Why haven't you left yet?

Wait! Wait! Come back here.  One more thing; if you're already talking about $2000 for a 1.75hp saw with a table mounted trunnion, you've got to at least consider the new SawStop PCS.  It's just under $3000.  You get the full 3hp and it's a true cabinet saw.  Full kerf blades, cabinet mounted trunnion, excellent dust collection, not portable at all but who cares, that's what fork lifts are for.  Ok, you can go now.  We'll talk later.

 
My wife is also in favor of that Saw Stop. I am plenty careful with my Bosch 4000, but hey, if the wife wants me to be safer and thinks $1500+ is worth the price, who am I to argue? I have used their cabinet saw and it is really something.
 
Well, one way to look at it is how far will $1500 to $3000 take you in the emergency room.  Not very far especially if you have to have some sort of reconstructive surgery, heaven forbid.  25 years ago I used this logic to get my stock feeder for the shaper.  Safety was greatly improved but so were the results of each and every cut and the range of cutting that could be done including climb cutting and cutting pieces too small to do safely with hand feeding.

So, my philosophy is always to buy the best tools that I can to get not only quality and safety features but also superior results...I hope you all can do the same.

Best,
Todd

 
ForumMFG said:
Deke,  What to trade wives?!  ;D

Now now, I think this type of post belongs in the Off Topic area! :-) I really don't want to trade wives (I'm sure yours is a fantastic person), but I might consider trading my wife for a Domino! Totally 100% kidding!!!

I am nowhere near the point of buying a Sawstop, but when I use my friends cabinet saw stop I have to tell you I feel a lot better. I am certainly not more careless in any way, but it does offer a kind of insurance that you can't beat. I know some old timers who have never hurt themselves scoff at the sawstop, but I think that perspective is really quite ridiculous. Are riving knives and blade guards somehow going against "tradition"? Did automobile drivers in the 50s and 60s who never crashed have a valid reason to scoff at seat belts, air bags, crumple zones?

I think SawStop is working on a Bandsaw too. I have to say, that of all my tools I think I have an illogical feeling that the bandsaw is somehow safer and less prone to accidents.
 
All seriousness aside, I agree with Rutabagared.  For $325 you can't go wrong.  I debated it and then bought and I love the things.  You can use them on or off an MFT.  You can use them on horses.  Rips from an 1/8" up to 26" wide.  Makes 8' rips a snap.  Admittedly there is a fiddle factor getting them on on off but with practice it gets easier.  They are fun to use and look professional.  If you're in the US you can remove the metric rule and apply an imperial peel and stick.  I did, and it's better than the factory because I placed it so the ticks on the rule are close to the indent on the stop.  And it's easier for me to convert from mm to inches when necessary than the other way.

Funny thing.  I'm in exactly the position we're talking about.  I was the proud owner of the new Ridgid granite top tablesaw.  Bought it in April.  Very nice machine.  True riving knife, beefy cabinet mounted trunnion.  Dead flat granite top, couldn't get the feeler under the straight edge.  Good dust collection through a 4" port.  Passed the nickle test with no sweat.  Almost passed the dime test.  Zero arbor runout; the needle on the dial simply did not move.  It was a little underpowered, full kerf blades where out of the question on anything over 3/4" material.  The fence was mediocre but serviceable.  Only cost me $452.  One little problem.  It seems that the arbor shaft might break during use.  A recall was issued this week asking that we stop using the saw.  It warns that the arbor shaft may break at the threads and the blade can fly off posing a laceration hazard, especially with dado stacks.  Ridgid will send someone out to fix it.  I call but they can't find anyone to come fix it so today the Home Depot guys came and hauled it off and I get my $425 back.  I am tablesawless.  Well I'm done with anything under 3 horses so it may be a while before it gets replaced.  Trouble is I'm in the middle of doing my kitchen and I've got a brother in law's kitchen waiting. 

Do I need a table saw?  Or will my parallel guides by themselves do the trick?  One caveat.  I do still have the Kickback Queen.  The 25 year old Craftsman 1hp direct drive contractor saw.  Arbor runout?  That's a laugh, you can see the blade wobble.

 
Rutabagared said:
fshanno,
Wow!  I'd hate to be one of the unlucky ones that experienced breakage!  I hope all is well with them.  I'd stay away from the Kickback Queen and give the parallel guides a workout.

Joe

Words of wisdom.  They will be heeded.

 
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