Festool Precisio CS 70 Review

[dutchie]

"but when I do that, mine isn't straight." Eh, yuck. Now I am totally put off on the fence.

If we all could agree on some of the fundamental problems with the fence(s) then we could sign a petition or some kind of letter that we could jointly send to Festool to let them know we want a better fence for the CS machines. They might actually take notice.

As far as I know the only 'self squaring' fences on mobile table saws are the Bosch GTS 10 XC and Dewalt DW745 (and some other DeWalt models with the same rack and pinion system)...

But as said here before as long as the fence is parallel to the blade and you only use it as a guide and not bent it out of place it should work just fine...

 

[DJW]

One knob to lock it in front and back, that's the theory, but when I do that, mine isn't straight.
[/quote]

With mine its a two knob job. I tighten the large knob which locks the fence at the front only, this pulls the fence square so it often does visibly move. Then turn the lever to lock the fence front and back.
If you just use the lever it will lock it on the piss every time.

 

[MichaelW2014]

it sounds like when you try to adjust the rip fence to make it straight it moves. this means you cannot make repeated cuts of a certain size after you move the fence. this seems to be a bad design for anyone who needs precision.

in my case, the miter fence cannot be adjusted to make it square with the table.

 

[MichaelW2014]

Festool has requested more proof of the problem with my miter fence. I took these images today.

Here you see there is 2mm+ of feeler gauges under the fence.
[attachimg=1]

 

[wrightwoodwork]

You would properly have being better keeping the square flat on the table of the saw then placing the feeler guage against the side fence down the bottom as I guess thats where the gap will be. The fence being 2mm off the table isn't really an issue its more the fence over hang in the head area. If the fence was tight down then it would be tight to turn around as would scrape on on the table.      A smaller gap would be nice though. I did check the fence on the erika for square off the table and it just a fraction leans back maybe .5mm so a tiny gap at the top and is .5mm off the table all I know is that when I set to rip 182mm then if I check it will be on the area of the black line on my rule at 182 mm. Then I can move the fence to another size then move back and it will accurate as humanly possible

 

[Holmz]

Festool has requested more proof of the problem with my miter fence. I took these images today.

Here you see there is 2mm+ of feeler gauges under the fence.

It seem that it would be easier if it leaned away as then all thinknesses would cut the same.

I think you have 4 choices:
1/2) Leave it as is:
- And love it
- And sell it
3/4) Get it fixed:
- And love it
- And sell it

I would think getting it fixed seems like the basis of the optimum approach.

 

[MichaelW2014]

You would properly have being better keeping the square flat on the table of the saw then placing the feeler guage against the side fence down the bottom as I guess thats where the gap will be. The fence being 2mm off the table isn't really an issue its more the fence over hang in the head area. If the fence was tight down then it would be tight to turn around as would scrape on on the table.      A smaller gap would be nice though. I did check the fence on the erika for square off the table and it just a fraction leans back maybe .5mm so a tiny gap at the top and is .5mm off the table all I know is that when I set to rip 182mm then if I check it will be on the area of the black line on my rule at 182 mm. Then I can move the fence to another size then move back and it will accurate as humanly possible

[member=21415]wrightwoodwork[/member]
Oh hey, that's not what i was trying to show. I was trying to show that the fence is square to the table when it is 2mm+ taller. In other words, the fence is too short and this is why it leans over toward the blade you could say.

If my fence leaned backward, as yours does, at least it would be easy to figure out the distance of the blade from the fence. in my case, this is difficult and an estimate is probably my best option. As my main interest in furniture making, which requires intricate joinery, as well as picture frame making, which also requires precision, getting out the slop in always important and often necessary.

As i do not yet own a jointer/thicknesser-which might allow me to make micro adjustments to my cuts-my table saw cuts are even more so important.
§
Sorry to hear the fence for your Erika is not dead on. Join the club?

 

[MichaelW2014]

Festool has requested more proof of the problem with my miter fence. I took these images today.

Here you see there is 2mm+ of feeler gauges under the fence.

It seem that it would be easier if it leaned away as then all thinknesses would cut the same.

I think you have 4 choices:
1/2) Leave it as is:
- And love it
- And sell it
3/4) Get it fixed:
- And love it
- And sell it

I would think getting it fixed seems like the basis of the optimum approach.

I was wondering when you were going to show up on this thread. Thanks for chopping it up into nice parts for me. Yeah, get if fixed and love it is my first choice right now. I really need to love it because I won't be able to replace it for 1-2 years. Plus, I think it might be difficult to sell because I live in Greece.
§
I am hoping that Festool will finally give in and give me a fair deal on this problem with a replacement miter fence.

 

[MichaelW2014]

You would properly have being better keeping the square flat on the table of the saw then placing the feeler guage against the side fence down the bottom as I guess thats where the gap will be. The fence being 2mm off the table isn't really an issue its more the fence over hang in the head area. If the fence was tight down then it would be tight to turn around as would scrape on on the table.      A smaller gap would be nice though. I did check the fence on the erika for square off the table and it just a fraction leans back maybe .5mm so a tiny gap at the top and is .5mm off the table all I know is that when I set to rip 182mm then if I check it will be on the area of the black line on my rule at 182 mm. Then I can move the fence to another size then move back and it will accurate as humanly possible

I wonder how accurate the fence on the hammer K3 is. Or, especially, the fence on the inca table saws (but I suppose you can fit your own miter on those because they have t-tracks (correct me if i am wrong)).

 

[wrightwoodwork]

Little question for you the part that the aluminium fence clamps to when you take it off, is that square. If that part of the fence isn't square it might cause the issue that the fence clamps onto not the actual fence being short in height. A mate has the hammer not sure the model the rip fence is solid as would expect yet it had no rack and pinion or fine adjustment. Which is always handy to have. Just curious as you don't have a planer do you use hand planes to get the timber smooth straight and square or is it all done with the sanders

 

[Holmz]

[.

...

I was wondering when you were going to show up on this thread. Thanks for chopping it up into nice parts for me. Yeah, get if fixed and love it is my first choice right now. I really need to love it because I won't be able to replace it for 1-2 years. Plus, I think it might be difficult to sell because I live in Greece.
§
I am hoping that Festool will finally give in and give me a fair deal on this problem with a replacement miter fence.
[/quote]

If they (Festool) want it in their hands in order to fix it, then you either need to hire a van or a courier company to move it to them.
Once it is fixed then you can determine whether it is "fit for task" for your needs.

You can always sell it at some point if it still gives you grief.

 

[MichaelW2014]

[.

...

I was wondering when you were going to show up on this thread. Thanks for chopping it up into nice parts for me. Yeah, get if fixed and love it is my first choice right now. I really need to love it because I won't be able to replace it for 1-2 years. Plus, I think it might be difficult to sell because I live in Greece.
§
I am hoping that Festool will finally give in and give me a fair deal on this problem with a replacement miter fence.

If they (Festool) want it in their hands in order to fix it, then you either need to hire a van or a courier company to move it to them.
Once it is fixed then you can determine whether it is "fit for task" for your needs.

You can always sell it at some point if it still gives you grief.
[/quote]

yeah, but i am trying to avoid this. and the regional festool technician has agreed with me that the fence needs to be replaced. it's hard for me to get things done in this country, which are simple tasks back in the US.

 

[MichaelW2014]

Little question for you the part that the aluminium fence clamps to when you take it off, is that square. If that part of the fence isn't square it might cause the issue that the fence clamps onto not the actual fence being short in height. A mate has the hammer not sure the model the rip fence is solid as would expect yet it had no rack and pinion or fine adjustment. Which is always handy to have. Just curious as you don't have a planer do you use hand planes to get the timber smooth straight and square or is it all done with the sanders

I have not looked into whether the v groove slot is square. i would have to think about how to go about doing that. i assume it is square because my fence seems to have the same problem on all sides of the table.
§
i get my wood planed by the people who usually sell the wood to me. but they usually do a very mediocre job which drives me totally fucking bonkers. not having a planer is the bane of my woodworking existence at this point. i am unwilling to buy a crappy machine so i have to deal with these sloppy wood dealers and take what they give me. it's a long story. greeks are not perfectionists. there is only one greek perfectionist who works with wood, who i am aware of. this anomaly is a friend but he doesn't yet have a jointer/planer and if he did, he lives very far away and also i wouldn't want to trouble him too much. etc

i have a hand plane by lie nielsen but i gave up on trying to master the craft of squaring timber in this manner. i really don't like doing it.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

I'm not meaning the v groove on the side of table more this part not sure if similar idea to the erika. Here is a couple of pics to get van idea of the area

 

[greg mann]

There is definitely something wrong with you miter fence. Mine sits right on the table with no gap and it is square to the table within.1mm which is of no consequence to me. In fact, I cannot tighten the clamp under the v groove to force a gap even if I am trying. By the time it is tight the fence is in contact with the table. I can the adjust for width of cut and, while the fence is still touching the table it is not difficult to move and tightens in place easily.

I do have the csla fence and find it very accurate. Like Alex, I have disabled the fine adjuster as I could not get used to it. YMMV. I do like being able to slide the fence toward me and rip in the 'Euro' manner which, of course, could also be done with the miter fence when used for ripping.

It would be nice if you could locate another miter fence for comparison but it seems like they may be rare in your region. Perhaps your representative could arrange for one to be sent for comparison and if it is right you could exchange.

I went back to the original post and noticed you said the fence was bowed. I would check the fence extrusion against a known straightedge. If your fence is sitting 2mm off the table something must be forcing out of alignment. This is a case where Festool needs to step up and help you.

 

[MichaelW2014]

There is definitely something wrong with you miter fence. Mine sits right on the table with no gap and it is square to the table within.1mm which is of no consequence to me. In fact, I cannot tighten the clamp under the v groove to force a gap even if I am trying. By the time it is tight the fence is in contact with the table. I can the adjust for width of cut and, while the fence is still touching the table it is not difficult to move and tightens in place easily.

I do have the csla fence and find it very accurate. Like Alex, I have disabled the fine adjuster as I could not get used to it. YMMV. I do like being able to slide the fence toward me and rip in the 'Euro' manner which, of course, could also be done with the miter fence when used for ripping.

It would be nice if you could locate another miter fence for comparison but it seems like they may be rare in your region. Perhaps your representative could arrange for one to be sent for comparison and if it is right you could exchange.

I went back to the original post and noticed you said the fence was bowed. I would check the fence extrusion against a known straightedge. If your fence is sitting 2mm off the table something must be forcing out of alignment. This is a case where Festool needs to step up and help you.

Sorry for the confusion. The fence does not sit 2mm off the table, as indicated in the photo. When the fence is tightened to the v groove it sits flat on the table. But it sits flat on the table with a forward slant. The reason why it slants forward is because the fence part of the miter fence is 2mm too short. it needs to be taller in order for the fence part of the miter fence to sit at 90 degrees.

Well, unfortunately a comparison is not possible, but i am waiting to see how they respond to this latest series of photos. i hope they understand my problem and are not confused as you were.

 

[MichaelW2014]

I'm not meaning the v groove on the side of table more this part not sure if similar idea to the erika. Here is a couple of pics to get van idea of the area

Ah, yes, I see what you mean now. I have not test that part to see if it is square. But there is some play in this slot when one can move the fence up and down slightly before tightening it so that, in theory, it could sit higher or lower, causing less of a slat. I have tried to get this to happen but was unable to achieve any definite positive results.

 

[MichaelW2014]

festool refuses to honor warranty despite sending pictures which fairly obviously show defect in miter fence.

No reply for my message to festool international which i sent over a week ago.

Deeply disatisfied with tool and with customer service.

 

[Holmz]

A non-working saw seems like it is of little to no use.

I know that there are cabs/taxis in Greece, and moving trucks., or you need to buy the fence outright.
If it was the first 30 days you would have been fine, but at this point you've waited too long.

 

[AlexThePalex]

festool refuses to honor warranty despite sending pictures which fairly obviously show defect in miter fence.

Since you say you've send pictures I assume you still didn't give them the opportunity to look at the saw themselves?

Seems to me in this case it's only logical for them to refuse any warranty repair. It is normal they only honour a warranty repair after their own qualified service personel had a look.

Michael, do yourself a favour, bring them the saw.