Festool Precisio CS 70 Review
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pingvinlakrits
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Seems like my message got all scrambled up (cough *moderated* cough?)
Holmz: you mean the Erika is OZ$6000 and not OZ$600?
I wrote: As a part of a system I think the CS70 is the best of the lot. Some fences and accessories that carry over.
Mafell offers extensive and expensive accessory options for the Erika as well to add routers and such.
They make the CS70 look like a bargain [eek].
This is the one we run in the workshop:
http://www.format-4usa.com/us-us/products/table-saws/sliding-table-panel-saw-kappa-400-x-motion.html
I honestly think it is AWESOME!!! [big grin]
Holmz: you mean the Erika is OZ$6000 and not OZ$600?
I wrote: As a part of a system I think the CS70 is the best of the lot. Some fences and accessories that carry over.
Mafell offers extensive and expensive accessory options for the Erika as well to add routers and such.
They make the CS70 look like a bargain [eek].
This is the one we run in the workshop:
http://www.format-4usa.com/us-us/products/table-saws/sliding-table-panel-saw-kappa-400-x-motion.html
I honestly think it is AWESOME!!! [big grin]
pingvinlakrits
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Kev: we ironically call the workshop "the Paradise". [big grin]
Holmz: phew! That is a bit rich isn't it!? Makes the practical cost vs value of running an Erika setup in OZ really hard to stomach.
Holmz: phew! That is a bit rich isn't it!? Makes the practical cost vs value of running an Erika setup in OZ really hard to stomach.
Holmz
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It is 2239.50 Eu + 500 = 2750 Eu
/.7
4000 Au.
So add in the LO-65 and it is prancing towards 6k.
A TS75 and it its table, plus a QF2200 are probably heading up around there.
A Felder/Hammer is not much more, but I dod not believe that they can masquerade as a jobsite saw.
Being cheap I am creating using solely the rails. I cut some planks the other day with a 3 degree angle on the long sides. I was thinking a table saw or a router with an angle would be easy... (I keep the wallet in pocket.)
/.7
4000 Au.
So add in the LO-65 and it is prancing towards 6k.
A TS75 and it its table, plus a QF2200 are probably heading up around there.
A Felder/Hammer is not much more, but I dod not believe that they can masquerade as a jobsite saw.
Being cheap I am creating using solely the rails. I cut some planks the other day with a 3 degree angle on the long sides. I was thinking a table saw or a router with an angle would be easy... (I keep the wallet in pocket.)
pingvinlakrits
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Holmz: once you upgrade you are left with some expensive "left overs" so keep that wallet in your pocket.
I can't remember when I last used the CS50 - five or six months ago for some really small trim ripping. Still, a job/project might surface when it will be just the right on site machine. I would hate to sell it and it doesn't take up much space with all the add ons neatly folded up.
I can't remember when I last used the CS50 - five or six months ago for some really small trim ripping. Still, a job/project might surface when it will be just the right on site machine. I would hate to sell it and it doesn't take up much space with all the add ons neatly folded up.
sebcbien
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Hello,
The RPM of the CS 70 is between 2000 and 4200 RPM
The average recommanded cutting speed for wood is between 40 (hard wood) and 100 m/s (soft wood)
With the blade of 225MM, and 4200 RPM, the speed is around 50 meter per second... (50x60)/(3,14x0,225) = 4246 RPM
Is the CS 70 speed enough ? do you always use the maximum speed ?
Thanks
The RPM of the CS 70 is between 2000 and 4200 RPM
The average recommanded cutting speed for wood is between 40 (hard wood) and 100 m/s (soft wood)
With the blade of 225MM, and 4200 RPM, the speed is around 50 meter per second... (50x60)/(3,14x0,225) = 4246 RPM
Is the CS 70 speed enough ? do you always use the maximum speed ?
Thanks
AlexThePalex
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I always use it full speed, seems fine with all wood. I am not a precision woodworker with high demands though.
100 m/s seems like a very high speed, I don't think it's necessary. If your calculation is correct, then a saw like the CS70 would need to go with a good 8500 RPM? With that speed, I'm afraid it would take off.
100 m/s seems like a very high speed, I don't think it's necessary. If your calculation is correct, then a saw like the CS70 would need to go with a good 8500 RPM? With that speed, I'm afraid it would take off.
pingvinlakrits
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sebcien:
I have mostly used the CS70 at (or near) full speed and it has no problems with either softwood, hardwood or sheet goods for all the normal thickness/dimensions. I have ripped Oak up to 60mm with the standard blade and softwood at full capacity.
For sheet goods the handling of the sheet/panel is more of a problem than the cutting capacity.
I have mostly used the CS70 at (or near) full speed and it has no problems with either softwood, hardwood or sheet goods for all the normal thickness/dimensions. I have ripped Oak up to 60mm with the standard blade and softwood at full capacity.
For sheet goods the handling of the sheet/panel is more of a problem than the cutting capacity.
I only dial the speed down on the CS70 for cutting aluminum or plastics with the non-ferro blade. (but sometimes I forget to turn it back up immediately)
When ripping, I usually keep the feedrate fairly low, to get better dustcollection, so I find the cutting speed fast enough.
When ripping, I usually keep the feedrate fairly low, to get better dustcollection, so I find the cutting speed fast enough.
sebcbien
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Thanks all for your replies, in my experience, I had to lower the speed for hard wood (Oak) becaus I had burned parts when cutting.
Then I forgot to go back to high speed and it worked quite well with soft wood also (same blade as the one sold with the CS 70)
That's why I asked the question here.
Thanks
Then I forgot to go back to high speed and it worked quite well with soft wood also (same blade as the one sold with the CS 70)
That's why I asked the question here.
Thanks
pingvinlakrits
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sebcien: the standard blade will generally cause a little more burning on high speed as you can't have the same feed rate as either the panther blade or when using a lower speed setting. On the occasion where I needed a cleaner "burn free" rip and the standard blade I did rip it twice, one rip a little oversize with a mm to spare and the last one at the correct width and in this case the amount of wood to break free of the blade is minimal so I could push the oak through at a faster rate with no burning.
I was just wondering, has anyone made a comprehensive video review of the CS70?
I know there is a really good one from a guy in Poland (no translation/english subtitles), but I don't know of any official Festool ones, with Franck or Phil.
This saw has been around for a long time now, so maybe an upgrade is due and we'll see something then.
Hint: Phil, give one to Peter Parfitt for a few weeks to make another great video.
I would be interested in a comparative video between the CS70 and it's little brother, the CS50
Alan
I know there is a really good one from a guy in Poland (no translation/english subtitles), but I don't know of any official Festool ones, with Franck or Phil.
This saw has been around for a long time now, so maybe an upgrade is due and we'll see something then.
Hint: Phil, give one to Peter Parfitt for a few weeks to make another great video.
I would be interested in a comparative video between the CS70 and it's little brother, the CS50
Alan
pingvinlakrits
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AJ Cruise: I had both the CS50 and CS70 for a longer period. The CS70 was acting as a semi portable rig and the CS50 did some interior trim work on site. Both had most of the add ons.
In retrospect I did like the power and capacity of the CS70 compared to the CS50 but the CS50 does really well within its specifications so I am quite happy using the little brother.
Much as I like the CS70 it is a saw that is neither here nor there for me at the moment. It has nowhere near the precision or processing power, capacity and repeatability of the shop saw and it hasn't the portability of the CS50.
Sure, the CS50 is awkward with sheet goods but I have several track saws so the CS50 is a great pairing to any plunge/track saw for on site work. I have done some flooring and lots of trimming with the CS50. Since I reckon I would bring a track saw to any on site job I am actually better off with the CS50 and a track saw.
I sold the CS70 with some regrets though, I did some really nice builds with it over the years.
In retrospect I did like the power and capacity of the CS70 compared to the CS50 but the CS50 does really well within its specifications so I am quite happy using the little brother.
Much as I like the CS70 it is a saw that is neither here nor there for me at the moment. It has nowhere near the precision or processing power, capacity and repeatability of the shop saw and it hasn't the portability of the CS50.
Sure, the CS50 is awkward with sheet goods but I have several track saws so the CS50 is a great pairing to any plunge/track saw for on site work. I have done some flooring and lots of trimming with the CS50. Since I reckon I would bring a track saw to any on site job I am actually better off with the CS50 and a track saw.
I sold the CS70 with some regrets though, I did some really nice builds with it over the years.
Henrik,
Thanks for your response. Your experience with both machines, their pros and cons, is exactly what I was looking to hear about.
At the moment, I am in the process of rebuilding my tool kit for construction work (stolen from my van a few years ago).
I am self-employed and generally work on my own. I have been adding tools as and when the need requires.
The next additions will include the BHC18, PSC420 and HKC55. I am trying to go cordless as much as possible, dragging around a 110v transformer (standard for sitework in Ireland) and extension cables is a real pain.
My TS55, CTL Midi and RO90 are all 110v, and I need to get at least one semi-stationary saw to cut framing 2X stock.
The Kapex SCMS would probably be the obvious choice, but I am reluctant to spend €1000+ on the 110v model, having read about numerous motor issues that are reported.
That is why I am enquiring about the CS70. (The CS50 doesn't have the capacity to cut 2X stock (44mm) much beyond 90 degrees)
The only limitation I see with the CS70 is that it is limited to 47 degrees.
As I said in my last comment, an upgrade with 85mm cut and 60 degree tilt (the new HK85 has this capacity) would be perfect.
If Festool have already addressed the motor issues on the kapex, then I will go with that and maybe the HK85 for rip cuts
Hint: A CMS module for the HK85 would be a great idea for site work.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks for your response. Your experience with both machines, their pros and cons, is exactly what I was looking to hear about.
At the moment, I am in the process of rebuilding my tool kit for construction work (stolen from my van a few years ago).
I am self-employed and generally work on my own. I have been adding tools as and when the need requires.
The next additions will include the BHC18, PSC420 and HKC55. I am trying to go cordless as much as possible, dragging around a 110v transformer (standard for sitework in Ireland) and extension cables is a real pain.
My TS55, CTL Midi and RO90 are all 110v, and I need to get at least one semi-stationary saw to cut framing 2X stock.
The Kapex SCMS would probably be the obvious choice, but I am reluctant to spend €1000+ on the 110v model, having read about numerous motor issues that are reported.
That is why I am enquiring about the CS70. (The CS50 doesn't have the capacity to cut 2X stock (44mm) much beyond 90 degrees)
The only limitation I see with the CS70 is that it is limited to 47 degrees.
As I said in my last comment, an upgrade with 85mm cut and 60 degree tilt (the new HK85 has this capacity) would be perfect.
If Festool have already addressed the motor issues on the kapex, then I will go with that and maybe the HK85 for rip cuts
Hint: A CMS module for the HK85 would be a great idea for site work.
Regards,
Alan
pingvinlakrits
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Alan: for ripping/trimming down framing/studs the CS70 is a much better machine, that is for sure. Also if you are often working with hardwood or thicker sheetgoods. But that is a given considering the weight and power difference.
Also the CS70 has a motor air intake filter which I am pretty sure the CS50 does not have so for the more particle laden job sites the CS70 has the added advantage of being more protected for wear.
On a couple of sites over the years where there has been a CS70 set up it has always been very handy. Manageable with sheet goods and works well for ripping. I have of course been glad I wasn't the one who had to haul it to the site though. Only on one site did the CS70 have any add ons. On the other occasions it was just a bare bones CS70 with the parallell fence which is how most tradesmen seem to work the CS70 over here.
The CS70 is a more complete saw than the CS50 but for me the weight penalty was too much and the CS50 has proved itself to be a versatile lightweight workhorse. Even so I don't really bring the add ons with me on jobs unless I have a very specific need and can't solve it with other tools.
Also the CS70 has a motor air intake filter which I am pretty sure the CS50 does not have so for the more particle laden job sites the CS70 has the added advantage of being more protected for wear.
On a couple of sites over the years where there has been a CS70 set up it has always been very handy. Manageable with sheet goods and works well for ripping. I have of course been glad I wasn't the one who had to haul it to the site though. Only on one site did the CS70 have any add ons. On the other occasions it was just a bare bones CS70 with the parallell fence which is how most tradesmen seem to work the CS70 over here.
The CS70 is a more complete saw than the CS50 but for me the weight penalty was too much and the CS50 has proved itself to be a versatile lightweight workhorse. Even so I don't really bring the add ons with me on jobs unless I have a very specific need and can't solve it with other tools.
