Festool RAS 115

[AlexThePalex]

I've used a wire wheel on the RAS, it's just not the same as with a grinder, it's too slow. And wire wheels are definitely not for wood unless you want to make special effects because that wood is not going to be flat. Wire wheels are best used on metal.

 

[AndrewG]

I put the RAS to good use today. I'm still waiting for my saphir abrasives to arrive so I just used the sample discs that came with it.

I started off the with the disc that had no writing on the back so I got no idea what grit or type it is. It felt like it was around 40 grit though. I used the RAS on it's edge sculpting and was amazed at how much control and how much material could be removed.

I then tried the rubin abrasives (40 grit). They didn't last long and I chewed through the disc in no time (edges wore worn out). I suspect the rubin would be more suited for flat surfaces.

Although the dust collection is not perfect, it's so much better than having nothing at all. The dust that wasn't collected just fell to the ground at my feet. A quick vacuum at the end with my CT26 and that was it.

 

[greg mann]

I put the RAS to good use today. I'm still waiting for my saphir abrasives to arrive so I just used the sample discs that came with it.

I started off the with the disc that had no writing on the back so I got no idea what grit or type it is. It felt like it was around 40 grit though. I used the RAS on it's edge sculpting and was amazed at how much control and how much material could be removed.

I then tried the rubin abrasives (40 grit). They didn't last long and I chewed through the disc in no time (edges wore worn out). I suspect the rubin would be more suited for flat surfaces.

Although the dust collection is not perfect, it's so much better than having nothing at all. The dust that wasn't collected just fell to the ground at my feet. A quick vacuum at the end with my CT26 and that was it.

Your observations reflect my experiences with the tool perfectly. The abrasives with strong backing allow edge work and the tool allows great control. Lighter backed abrasives require much more contact with the work surface or they will wear and fray quickly. Picking the right abrasive for the application is not only about the abrasive but also the backing. If applied right the tool is uniquely cool.

 

[Mort]

I'm glad to read all this. I think the RAS might be just what the doctor ordered for sculpting. I can deal with vacuuming up stuff right below it, but if it collects most of the fine stuff that would otherwise be all over the place, including my lungs, it'd be worth the price of admission.

 

[peter halle]

I'm glad to read all this. I think the RAS might be just what the doctor ordered for sculpting. I can deal with vacuuming up stuff right below it, but if it collects most of the fine stuff that would otherwise be all over the place, including my lungs, it'd be worth the price of admission.

How much the RAS collects dust does have a learning curve and the results can vary greatly.  Users need to learn how the dust is going to come off the pad and adjust the dust input accordingly.  Is it better than a disk grinder?  But can it create a bunch of air borne dust if the shroud isn't in the correct location?  Yes.

I love my RAS of 5 + years and have no hesitation in using it, but for instance I would not use it to cope moldings inside of someone's home.  Outside-definitely yes.

Peter

 

[Mort]

I was sculpting with an angle grinder and a flap wheel, even with the learning curve (I'm a fairly handy and intelligent dude), it can't be worse than that.

 

[Laminator]

I've taken the side handles off both my ras115s as  it makes it much easier to control. I did this at first so I could sand into  inside corners from both directions  and found that it is just easier to use without the handle. Great tool for solving many problems.

 

[AndrewG]

There definitely is a learning curve with how to adjust the handle to effectively capture the most amount of dust.

In the past when I've sculpted for example a chair seat for an hour or so my workshop would have been covered in dust. After an hour yesterday it was isolated to just where I was working. I reckon I could improve how much I capture with more use of the tool.

I'm very happy with my purchase!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AndrewG]

I’ve got a small painted deck that I’d like to strip back and was wondering if anyone recommends the RAS for this? I reckon there is at least 8 coats. It’s a nice hardwood deck so I’ll be stripping it back bare, sanding it and oiling it up.

I have a RO 150, but from what I’ve read the rotex will gum up the paper rather quickly? My concerns with the RAS is that it’s too aggressive and may contour the surface. My other option is using a paint stripper followed by my rotex.

I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Hi Andrew, I didn't weigh in earlier because you got some good replies already. Great to hear that you got yourself the RAS115 and that you find it a great little machine. For me it is pretty much indispensable and I don't know what I would do if I lost mine. That's how much I like it!

I did have a brand new one I got when I heard they were discontinued.  I sold it a few months back as it seemed over the top having a new "spare". Still some remorse over that.

The RAS works well for following a scribed line on trim for interiors as well as coping moldings.

It is more aggressive and more manageable than the Rotex 150 though this is not always an advantage.

For your painted deck I would say it depends on what type of wood. I have done similar jobs where I would say the work was done a lot quicker with the RAS 115 though if the wood is very soft you need to watch out so you don't dig in with the RAS. Also the width of the decking boards might factor in. For the largest jobs I've done stripping coatings/paint of decking and floors I have started with the RAS using only two grits (one coarse and one medium grit) and finished off with the Rotex/RTS sanders.  In one case I could only use the RAS and a Mirka machine under some wall mounted radiators as they were the only ones to run clear under them.

A card scraper,  chisel, the RAS115 and the ROTEX together with the Mirka was a great set up for sure. In the kitchen on one house where they wished to go down to the original (and very cupped) subfloor planks I had to toss in the EHL planer as well before going RAS.

The RAS will last a lot longer with the papers if you start with the "right grit" though on some types of paint/lacquer they will all gum up so I would choose the RAS with a bunch of "el cheapo" 115 coarse to medium grit papers as a starting point and burn through those before going ROTEX. Again, if the decking boards are softer/weathered wood I would go with the machine that fits best size wise unless the deck is flat enough to run any of them.

I hardly ever use my ROTEX 150 anymore as the RAS does almost all I need for heavy removal (I have a DSC 125 grinder too) and I use the ETS EC 150 for medium to finer sanding instead where I think the ROTEX is a bit clumsy, though not bad at all. Still, there are situations where the ROTEX 150 is the bees knees. Bring them both and try them out for the decking - you might have to use both but make sure you have a varied grit range for RAS with some generic cheap papers for the initial removal. A light touch and the right grit with the RAS has done it for me but your situation might require something else. 

 

[AndrewG]

Thanks for the reply Henrik. The deck timber is certainly a dense/hard wood (Merbau), so hopefully there’s no issue there. I like your idea with using cheap 115mm discs, it makes perfect sense. I wonder though why they painted the deck? I bought the house with it painted, so I hope I don’t sand it back and find it’s split or rotted away. The underside looks fine, so fingers crossed.

 

[pingvinlakrits]

Don't know Andrew, considering your climate it is a bit strange. It could be a cover up or simply someone thinking it would look "fresh". Painting a deck is virtually unheard of over here. I can't say that I have seen many.