Festool Rotex 90 or 150

[AndrewG]

Hi all,

I am looking for some advice on which rotex sander to buy. I am building a maloof inspired rocker and really enjoying it. I plan to build more in the future and want to invest in the right tools. I'm mainly looking to buy the rotex to remove the high spots and smooth the seat after sculpting with a grinder.

I already have a ETS 150/3 sander with a soft interface pad but this is not course enough. I'm leaning more towards buying the RO90 because of it's size and ability to conform to the shape of the seat with a soft pad. The RO150 has over double the power but my concern is that it's just too big. In saying this, I've seen a guy who has built dozens of rockers and he uses a RO150 with excellent results.

I would really appreciate your advice  ;D

Thank you!

 

[Maximus]

To be honest, for that job, and on a sculpted chair seat, I'd use a curved draw knife and a cabinet scraper.  Or since you're wanting to finish it post sculpting, just a goose neck cabinet scraper.

 

[nerves]

I love my ro90 but, have not tackled you type of project yet.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Shane Holland]

The larger pad of the RO 150 would conform better with an interface pad IMO. Plus shares the abrasives you already have. Proven results from others doing the same task with the same sander. You know what to do.  [tongue]

Vote: RO 150

 

[AndrewG]

To be honest, for that job, and on a sculpted chair seat, I'd use a curved draw knife and a cabinet scraper.  Or since you're wanting to finish it post sculpting, just a goose neck cabinet scraper.

I've tried hand scrapers but the surface is just too rough and needs a power tool to get the surface even and smooth. I do like scrapers and will definetely use them throughout the build.

 

[AndrewG]

The larger pad of the RO 150 would conform better with an interface pad IMO. Plus shares the abrasives you already have. Proven results from others doing the same task with the same sander. You know what to do.  [tongue]

Vote: RO 150

Thanks for the reply. I've done some further research on guys who make sculptured rockers for a living and there seems to be mixed opinions. I suppose it just comes down to personal choice and what feels right in the hand. Some say the RO90 is great as it allows you to get into tighter areas etc and some say the RO150 is better because as you say it brings down the high spots to the low slots because of the size.

Maybe I should be considering the RO 125?

 

[flair woodworks]

I think that the RO 90 is on the small side to fair a chair seat, but it's a nice size for detail sanding and I use mine a lot for sculptural work. For chair seats and other vertical work, I like the RO 125 because it is smaller, lighter and easier to handle than the RO 150.

I think that you're going to want the RO 90 eventually, and the RO 150 is a sensible choice for you now since you already have another 6" sander. Note that there are also two thickness of 6" interface pads.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I think the RO125 might be the best fit for this type of work. The 90 is too small, and the 150 could work, but because of its size it might be more difficult to see the finer details of the curves.

But if you have no problem with your ETS150 except that it's too slow, then the RO150 would work too, I guess.

 

[ear3]

I prefer RO90 to RO150 for most sculpting work -- greater control and ability to maneuver in tight spaces, which would be key in your case when you're working near the joints on the inside of the frame. 

If you're looking for something super aggressive to do the first roughing pass, you might look at the RAS or simply an angle grinder with a sanding pad attached.

 

[monstrol]

Just get both....you know you want to. Just kidding. I believe you will make it work with either one. They're both great machines.

 

[SS Teach]

As you have said, I've seen a guy who uses a 150 with excellent results. Works for me. I would highly recommend you watch some YouTube videos on using  Rotex sanders. They are very helpful. Most sanders don't have a learning curve, Ros do. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[ScotF]

I am currently making a Maloof inspired dining room set and I think the RO90 is THE perfect sander for this task. Its size is perfect for other areas of the chair and not just the seat. I stack interface pads to better follow the contours. I also used a RAS for initial shaping and sculpting. If you want a larger pad, then the RO125 would work or the new brushless ETS EC 125 RO has plenty of power and control.

 

[AndrewG]

I ended up buying the RO150. I'm very happy with the purchase and it made easy work on the chair seat. I also got the super soft pad and used 40 grit paper to refine the shape of the seat. This tool has exceeded my expectations.

I'm now looking to get the RO90 and RAS 115 (need to save up!). After sculpting a chair with a grinder I think the RAS will be better for dust extraction.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Shane Holland]

Thanks for the update, Andrew. I'm sure it'll help others making the same choices.

 

[Holmz]

I ended up buying the RO150. I'm very happy with the purchase and it made easy work on the chair seat. I also got the super soft pad and used 40 grit paper to refine the shape of the seat. This tool has exceeded my expectations.

I'm now looking to get the RO90 and RAS 115 (need to save up!). After sculpting a chair with a grinder I think the RAS will be better for dust extraction.

Thanks for the help.

I really would like to see progress photos of the chair...

 

[ear3]

I'm now looking to get the RO90 and RAS 115 (need to save up!). After sculpting a chair with a grinder I think the RAS will be better for dust extraction.

Thanks for the help.

Indeed.  The RAS won't eliminate all the dust -- you will gradually generate a pile of sawdust immediately around the work --  and there is a bit of a learning curve for how to use the handle to adjust the position of the dust shroud as you are working and constantly changing your angle of approach, but what it does cut down on is the cloud of ambient dust that the angle grinder creates when used as a sandeer.

 

[AndrewG]

Here are some pics of the seat sanded to 60 grit. I'll be going up to 500 grit eventually.

The RAS from my understanding is a bit slower but it has good dust extraction. I'm using the Holey Galahad wheels which are absolutely brilliant, but no dust extraction.

 

[Holmz]

If you are using the holey Galahad wheels, then does the ETS have enough grunt to finish it up?

I bet those Galahad wheels spew out some dust...

 

[AndrewG]

If you are using the holey Galahad wheels, then does the ETS have enough grunt to finish it up?

I bet those Galahad wheels spew out some dust...

I tried the ETS 150/3 and it just wasn't course enough. The Galahad wheel on a grinder has zero dust extraction so it's a very messy work shop.

I set up an industrial fan next to my workshop and aimed it outside. I had that on full speed whilst I was shaping and left it on for a few hours after I finished. I'd then go back into the shop and close up and turn the room air filter on. The air would be much more cleaner but there would be dust everywhere still.

I've got in the habit now of doing a quick clean up with a vacuum attachment on my CT26 and this seems to manage the mess in the shop.

I'd be interested to hear people's thoughts on the RAS 115 with sculpting?

 

[ScotF]

Looking very good!!  I would get the RAS and the RO90 -- I use those two way more than the 150 on this type of project - I just finished my first high-back Maloof inspired chair and the 90 came in handy sanding after glue-up. So I might suggest that one first and then get the RAS before your next one. With Saphir paper it is pretty aggressive, pretty fast and the paper lasts a very, very long time - one chair with one sheet, if I remember -- maybe 2 sheets. But still, that paper is pretty rugged stuff.