festool rotex vs polisher

[treesner]

hey guys, i do a lot of wood carving/shaping with a grinder + kutzall bit but i need something to clean up the tool marks with. I have a mirka 6" which i bought because the paddle/variable speed with the thought that i could feather the trigger like you can with a a pneumatic sander but there's a delay and the there's not a setting (that i'm aware of) to make it continue to spin like the rotex does. My roomate uses one of these dewalt polishers to sand/shape surfboards which works well with the variable speed trigger but it's a tank at 12 pounds and to big for what I need.
I've been considering the rotex ro 90 with some kind of soft foam pad as it seems nice to be able to get into tight areas + I have a 6" sander already. Or maybe a variable speed polisher like the metabo, dewalt or maybe a smaller milwaukee polisher

what are your thoughts on rotex rotating + orbital vs just normal rotating for curved objects?

 

[leakyroof]

I can't really say since I don't know what size pad works best for your work and style of projects. The RO90 is great for smaller objects that the larger RO 150 would be a struggle with. Would a Mop sander/ Wheel lose too much carving detail in getting rid of the tool marks, or is it too aggressive as well?
I've also seen people who really like a flex shaft sander since they can change out burrs, wheels and sanding tips for their carving work.
Maybe a few pictures of your work would help figure out your next move.

 

[treesner]

I can't really say since I don't know what size pad works best for your work and style of projects. The RO90 is great for smaller objects that the larger RO 150 would be a struggle with. Would a Mop sander/ Wheel lose too much carving detail in getting rid of the tool marks, or is it too aggressive as well?
I've also seen people who really like a flex shaft sander since they can change out burrs, wheels and sanding tips for their carving work.
Maybe a few pictures of your work would help figure out your next move.

I'll look into the mop sander, not sure what that is. The flex shaft is probably to small for the scale of work i do (and most the bits look to hard?)

here's some photos

[attachimg=1]

 

[treesner]

[attachimg=1]

 

[Shane Holland]

[member=57611]treesner[/member], check out the interface pad for the Rotex sanders. Perfect for what you're looking to do because it will allow the abrasive to conform to the curves.


Jory Brigham uses the Festool RAS, Rotex 150 and Rotex 90 for a similar application.

 

[leakyroof]

I can't really say since I don't know what size pad works best for your work and style of projects. The RO90 is great for smaller objects that the larger RO 150 would be a struggle with. Would a Mop sander/ Wheel lose too much carving detail in getting rid of the tool marks, or is it too aggressive as well?
I've also seen people who really like a flex shaft sander since they can change out burrs, wheels and sanding tips for their carving work.
Maybe a few pictures of your work would help figure out your next move.

I'll look into the mop sander, not sure what that is. The flex shaft is probably to small for the scale of work i do (and most the bits look to hard?)

here's some photos

[attachimg=1]

  Flex Shaft Machines come in many sizes, with either chucks or collets at the handle end to use which attachments you want. The small ones are probably what you're thinking of, like what Klingspor sells.  As for Mop Heads, google them or also look them up on a site like Klingspor or others.  Basically, they were created for irregular sanding needs, like yours or the ones shown by Shane.
the Flexible Interface pads WILL work for you in many situations, but they wear and fall apart if pushed hard during use. But, attached to a sander with DC collection versus a Mop Head that has none might sway you to use a Festool sander and buy more interface pads.....
You can rig up some sort of dust collection hood with a dedicated DC unit , if you already have a dust collector when using Mop head and similar flexible sanding pads. So, you have choices... [wink]

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/mm00510d/
This is just one of the many Mop Head or Mop sanders out there. This particular one is mounted on a bench machine that you would take the work to. There are lots of others that are smaller and get chucked into a smaller machine, which you bring to the work while its on the table/workbench. People use die grinders, drills, Flex Shaft machines for the smaller wheels/mops.

 

[ear3]

Rotex sander in geared mode with interface pad is incredibly effective on curved objects -- from the pictures you posted I would say you would need an RO90 to get into some of those tight curves.  You just have to be careful not to dig the pad too hard in geared mode, otherwise you'll be shelling out $$$ for replacement pads.

 

[treesner]

Rotex sander in geared mode with interface pad is incredibly effective on curved objects -- from the pictures you posted I would say you would need an RO90 to get into some of those tight curves.  You just have to be careful not to dig the pad too hard in geared mode, otherwise you'll be shelling out $$$ for replacement pads.

I'm a little hesitant about the orbital nature of the geared spinning. My thought is that it will be hard to hold an edge and shape how I want it to as the oribigal makes the head move around, maybe causing to roll over all the edges on the piece (fine for some pieces  but others not)

I found this little drill that bowl turners use for sanding, similar in shape to the ro but without the oribital

 

[Holmz]

There are tones of pneumatic units that are similar to that too.

(They are probably the opposite of a vacuum in terms of dust though.)

 

[leakyroof]

Rotex sander in geared mode with interface pad is incredibly effective on curved objects -- from the pictures you posted I would say you would need an RO90 to get into some of those tight curves.  You just have to be careful not to dig the pad too hard in geared mode, otherwise you'll be shelling out $$$ for replacement pads.

I'm a little hesitant about the orbital nature of the geared spinning. My thought is that it will be hard to hold an edge and shape how I want it to as the oribigal makes the head move around, maybe causing to roll over all the edges on the piece (fine for some pieces  but others not)

I found this little drill that bowl turners use for sanding, similar in shape to the ro but without the oribital

. Oh sure, hadn't thought to link that type of sanding set-up as an option. I have a similar Milwaukee drill and a pneumatic Grex unit that's even smaller than the electric Milwaukee drill for tight spots.  Neither have any dust extraction, so you have to 'hood' your work if you want some. And the Grex needs a large compressor to run it unlike the Milwaukee.

 

[magellan]

Have you considered looking into using the Arbortech sanding attachment.  I find it works well for sanding curves and such.  The sanding discs hold up pretty well  Take a look at their products you might find them useful. 

 

[treesner]

Rotex sander in geared mode with interface pad is incredibly effective on curved objects -- from the pictures you posted I would say you would need an RO90 to get into some of those tight curves.  You just have to be careful not to dig the pad too hard in geared mode, otherwise you'll be shelling out $$$ for replacement pads.

I'm a little hesitant about the orbital nature of the geared spinning. My thought is that it will be hard to hold an edge and shape how I want it to as the oribigal makes the head move around, maybe causing to roll over all the edges on the piece (fine for some pieces  but others not)

I found this little drill that bowl turners use for sanding, similar in shape to the ro but without the oribital

. Oh sure, hadn't thought to link that type of sanding set-up as an option. I have a similar Milwaukee drill and a pneumatic Grex unit that's even smaller than the electric Milwaukee drill for tight spots.  Neither have any dust extraction, so you have to 'hood' your work if you want some. And the Grex needs a large compressor to run it unlike the Milwaukee.

Yeah I love pneumatic sanders but don't have the space in my shop. Do you know the model number? I'm not able to find that Milwaukee drill anymore, thinking it got discontinued

 

[leakyroof]

Rotex sander in geared mode with interface pad is incredibly effective on curved objects -- from the pictures you posted I would say you would need an RO90 to get into some of those tight curves.  You just have to be careful not to dig the pad too hard in geared mode, otherwise you'll be shelling out $$$ for replacement pads.

I'm a little hesitant about the orbital nature of the geared spinning. My thought is that it will be hard to hold an edge and shape how I want it to as the oribigal makes the head move around, maybe causing to roll over all the edges on the piece (fine for some pieces  but others not)

I found this little drill that bowl turners use for sanding, similar in shape to the ro but without the oribital

. Oh sure, hadn't thought to link that type of sanding set-up as an option. I have a similar Milwaukee drill and a pneumatic Grex unit that's even smaller than the electric Milwaukee drill for tight spots.  Neither have any dust extraction, so you have to 'hood' your work if you want some. And the Grex needs a large compressor to run it unlike the Milwaukee.

Yeah I love pneumatic sanders but don't have the space in my shop. Do you know the model number? I'm not able to find that Milwaukee drill anymore, thinking it got discontinued

. Label says 0375-1.  0-1300 rpm.
If Milwaukee dropped it, you might see if Sioux still makes their version. I thought Milwaukee copied them quite a bit on this drill .

 

[rst]

acmetools.com/shop/tools/milwaukee-0370-20  Still onMilwaukee home pages

 

[treesner]

Label says 0375-1.  0-1300 rpm.
If Milwaukee dropped it, you might see if Sioux still makes their version. I thought Milwaukee copied them quite a bit on this drill .
[/quote]

acmetools.com/shop/tools/milwaukee-0370-20  Still onMilwaukee home pages

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QV3CM...TF8&colid=2B8U73MZ4BAFA&coliid=I3R4ZG76GVVEYE

cool thanks guys
looks like Milwaukee changed the trigger a bit, i liked the mod the guy did in the video where he put a block under the trigger so you don't go past a certain rpm.

I might try this cheap seiko for $40 and old triggerhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XUHA8...TF8&colid=2B8U73MZ4BAFA&coliid=I2W4Z4WGML7AHU

View attachment 1

edit: found a used milwaukee with old trigger on eBay for $60 so I went with that + asmall foam sanding pad.
I am still curious about the RO90, would be nice to try one out in a store and see how it works on the curved pieces i'm working on