Matthew Schenker
Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2007
- Messages
- 2,619
The following discussion took place on the old Yahoo Festool Owners Group from April 24, 2006 to April 26, 2006. At the request of a member, I have moved it into the new forum:
Good Morning,
A little while ago, I wrote about using Festool tools to construct
solid-surface countertops for bathroom vanities. Well, I did some
research, and had some offline communication with Patrick Austermann,
and as a result I fell in love with the idea of doing concrete
countertops. So has my wife! She now wants concrete countertops in
the kitchen as well as the bathrooms! So now it's up to me to do it
right...
Of course, my question is about using Festool sanders for this job. I
have the Rotex RO125, the Rotex RO150, the ETS150/5, and the RAS 115
rotary sander.
Has anyone had experience using Festool sanders to take a concrete
surface through all the stages of grinding and polishing so it's ready
for use?
My main concerns are:
What steps should I follow to get the best results?
How do I do the initial grinding so the surface is smooth?
What compounds and accessories are needed for a polished surface?
Are there special techniques for polishing concrete?
Please jump in with ideas, advice, or information I should be aware of.
I'm thinking this is something other members could benefit from.
Thanks everyone,
Matthew
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
As I recall, the new version of the RO150 should have a much better
seal that will prevent solid surface grit from getting up into the
shaft area. I believe the new RO125 already has this new seal.
Bill
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Matthew, All,
I think there is a reason that almost all pros seem to be using
wet grinding. There are some tools for dry grinding but is extremely
messy and hard on the tools.
This is one area where I would not use Festools for grinding and
polishing. However, you need to build the forms to pour the concrete
in (melamine is good) and for that the Festool system is ideal ...
The RO is fine for touchup and refining concrete countertop edges but
not for larger surfaces.
For wet grinding Flex and MK have a very good reputation - you want a
variable speed grinder such as the Porter Cable/Flex LW603VR with
integral water feed. If you only do this very rarely, a cheap variable
speed polisher wand a bucket with water and a hole poked in the side
will do just fine. You will also need a cheap set of diamond grinding
pads at least from grit 50 - 1000 (4 - 5 different grits).
Don't forget a GFCI to keep you alive.
With the money you save you can then buy a DOMINO ... eventually
)
Good web sites to see are
http://www.concreteexchange.com (DIY oriented)http://www.stonesoupconcrete.com/ for inspirationhttp://store.granitecitytool.com/store/main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=AA Tools
Relatively inexpensive tools for this are sold at Harbor Freight
(sorry ...) andhttp://www.bargainblade.com/product_info.php/products_id/79
You certainly can use a RO for DRY final buffing / waxing after sealing.
But I'll stop now since this is the FOG. There is a forum for
decorative conrete athttp://www.decorative-concrete.net/forum/index.php
But it is fun and messy !
Patrick
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
"mattseeker" wrote:
> A little while ago, I wrote about using Festool tools to construct
> solid-surface countertops for bathroom vanities. Well, I did some
> research, and had some offline communication with Patrick Austermann,
> and as a result I fell in love with the idea of doing concrete
> countertops. So has my wife! She now wants concrete countertops in
> the kitchen as well as the bathrooms! So now it's up to me to do it
> right...
I've also been interested in concrete countertops ever since reading
Fu-Tung Cheng's first book on the subject. FWIW, I highly recommend
"Decorative Concrete" by Jeanne Huber, recently published by Sunset.
It provides a number of very detailed project descriptions; I found it to
be much more practical than Fu-Tung Cheng's book.
> Has anyone had experience using Festool sanders to take a concrete
> surface through all the stages of grinding and polishing so it's ready
> for use?
I made a 2'x2' test slab using Buddy Rhodes Concrete Countertop
mix. Super-expensive, but available locally and I figured it would give
me the best chance at success. I don't own any Festool sanders,
so I used foam-backed diamond pads for the sanding. I started with
a 70 grit pad and hand-sanded up to 400 grit, I think, in 4 or 5 steps.
I pretty much followed the project guide from "Decorative Concrete".
The book suggested wet sanding, but I found that the sludge created
tended to clog the diamond pad so I gave up on it pretty quickly. A
Festool sander with vacuum would probably be much better... With
the small, flexible pads I used, it was difficult to get the surface
completely level. If I owned one, I'd be tempted to start with the Rotex
RO150. I suspect you'll need to have quite a bit of sandpaper on hand.
> My main concerns are:
> What steps should I follow to get the best results?
Consider buying one of the new man-made quartz materials rather
than concrete? Seriously. I think concrete is pretty cool, and if you
do it yourself it can be pretty inexpensive. But there ARE some
drawbacks.
The biggest one is figuring out how to seal the concrete so that it
won't stain. I tried a number of different products and determined
that it's difficult or impossible to keep the concrete from staining.
I had the best results using several applications of penetrating
sealer (e.g. Miracle 511 Impregnator), followed by a surface sealer
(I used TileLab Gloss Sealer & Finish, though I'd suggest you use
the matte version), followed by wax. This three-step approach
seemed to give the best results in my tests with water and red
wine. I would expect to have to re-do the surface sealer and wax
at regular intervals.
If you, or your wife, is looking for a countertop that's going to start
perfect and stay perfect for years to come concrete probably isn't
for you.
> How do I do the initial grinding so the surface is smooth?
I'd suggest using a 40- or 60-grit abrasive. Use the biggest sander
you have, and try to keep it level to the surface. The best way to
get the surface smooth would seem to be to cast the countertop
upside down, using a melamine form. The melamine supposedly
starts you out with a relatively smooth surface, which requires much
less sanding/polishing.
I cast my test piece right side up, as if it were going to be cast in
place, and found that screeding and floating the surface smooth
was a bit of an art. As a result, I had to do quite a bit of sanding.
> What compounds and accessories are needed for a polished surface?
> Are there special techniques for polishing concrete?
I was able to achieve a relatively polished surface by just sanding with
finer and finer abrasives. I stopped after 400 grit. That, combined with
the sealer three step sealer, left me with a surface that was very smooth
to the touch. If you want a super-glossly look, then proceed through
600, 1000, and higher grits. Wiping the surface with a damp cloth and
shining light across the surface at an angle should help you determine
whether you've removed all of the scratches from the previous coat.
Even if you want a polished look, I'd suggest using a "matte" surface
sealer. I used gloss and wasn't entirely happy with the results. If you
look directly at the counter, it doesn't seem that glossy... but when
the light hits the surface at the right angle EVERY little imperfection in
the surface jumps out at you.
> Please jump in with ideas, advice, or information I should be aware of.
Coloring concrete is much like finishing wood, even with the best research
and intentions you may find that the color doesn't turn out exactly as
expected. I'd suggest doing several test pours to practice the techniques
and coloring before comitting to an entire kitchen or other large project.
Dark colors probably make many stains less obvious. Pay at least as much
attention to the aggregates used as to any dyes/colors!
I haven't done too much research for my area, but you may find it difficult
to locate the special materials (e.g. white portland cement) and additives
necessary for a concrete countertop. May be especially true if you want
small quantities. I'm sure the stuff is available in my area, after all Fu-Tung
Cheng and Buddy Rhodes are both in my backyard, I just wasn't able to
find it in the first 3-4 phone calls.
I find that concrete feels very cold and unwelcoming to the touch. Being
a stone-like product I expected this to some degree, but the reality was
a bit beyond what I'd anticipated. I was initially put off by this, to the point
where I was looking for electric heat mats that could be embedded in the
slab, though I've since gotten used to it. If you want a surface that will
be warm, or even neutral to the touch, think twice about concrete.
For small projects, I'd suggest having at least one helper. For a large
project, like a cast-in-place kitchen counter, I'd suggest having several
people to help. The minute you pour water into the concrete mix, the
clock starts to tick... The situation will be much less stressful if you
have people to help mix, transport, fill forms, screed, etc.
Working with concrete is messy business. I cast my test piece on my
dining room table, just to see if I could deal with the mess that would
be created during a cast in place project. No matter how careful you are,
you'll inevitably spill concrete (or colorants) somewhere! Especially if
you're rushing around trying to do everything yourself...
I had the most trouble around the edges of my test slab. The material
was very porous in this area. Maybe because I had too much water, or
perhaps because I didn't manage to vibrate the slab very effectively. I
used a sander to vibrate the slab, which several books/articles suggested,
but it didn't seem to do much.
Finally, remember that concrete is heavy stuff! My 24.5" x 21.5" x 1.5"
test slab used the better part of a 70lb bag of concrete mix. Not sure
I'd want to try to move even a moderately large slab!
Good luck! If you decide to give concrete a try, I'd be very interested to
know what you do and how it turns out!
-- Scott
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Scott, Patrick, and others
Thanks for your extremely detailed responses! It helps a lot to hear
from those who have done this kind of work, who experience the same
learning curve I'll be experiencing if I go this route.
I have a list of books I want to check out:
Here are the ones Scott mentioned:
"Concrete Countertops" by Fu-Tung Cheng
"Decorateive Concrete" by Jeanne Huber
Here are two others on my list (I don't know how good they are):
"Concrete at Home" by Fu-Tung Cheng
Decorating with Concrete Indoors" by Tina Skinner
This sounds like it could be an exciting project, well worth the
effort to learn all about it. I'm still weighing the benefits of
concrete versus solid-surface, so this is a good process.
And of course I am also trying to assess when I should, and should
not, use Festool tools for this effort.
Thank you again!
Matthew
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Matthew,
I have both books by Cheng. Concrete Countertops focuses on the actual
proces of making the contertops whereas "Concrete at Home" also shows
many other applications - floors, walls, etc. and is a general source
of inspiration ...
The Cheng DVD is decent - check his web site for a special. I
recommend to make samples in disposable glad containers until you get
it right, then make a larger sample (I did a cantilevered board for
the hallway with an inlaid 8 inch sea shell as a key tray) and then
tackle something bigger. You can inlay any object. I used mother of
pearl and Carnelian Stone for my countertop. The Cheng sealer works
for me - it gives me the glossy surface I was looking for and is easy
to use.
It is a lot easier than you think)
Patrick
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Matthew,
If you have access to the DIY network on TV, Rock Solid did a program on Concrete Coutertops:
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_droc/episode/0,2499,DIY_21539_37348,00.html
[Les]
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
"mattseeker" wrote:
> I have a list of books I want to check out:
>
> Here are the ones Scott mentioned:
> "Concrete Countertops" by Fu-Tung Cheng
> "Decorateive Concrete" by Jeanne Huber
>
> Here are two others on my list (I don't know how good they are):
> "Concrete at Home" by Fu-Tung Cheng
> Decorating with Concrete Indoors" by Tina Skinner
I have "Concrete at Home" by Fu-Tung Cheng in addition to the
other two books I mentioned. "Concrete at Home" branches out
from countertops and covers concrete floors, pathways, fireplace
surrounds, walls, and many other uses. I'd characterize it as being
more of an "idea" book than a practical how-to guide. That's not to
say there isn't "how to" information, just that it sort of assumes
you've picked up the basics from Cheng's previous book.
-- Scott
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Al Lenkner wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info. My younger son wants to pour his own
> countertop for his kitchen. I do have a question for you: What
> makes Buddy Rhodes Concrete Countertop Mix so special? Is it
> different from the white Portland cement that you mentioned later in
> your report.
Concrete is a mixture of portland cement, sand, aggregates, and
water. "Decorative Concrete" has a very good explanation of this,
BTW. Buddy Rhodes Concrete Counter Mix is a bagged mix that
is specifically designed for use in countertops. Unlike other bagged
mixes, it includes white portland cement (= brighter colors), granite
dust (= stone-like surface sparkles), sand, and special additives that
supposedly help the concrete cure without cracking.
I found that it worked very well for my test pour, but at 10X the price
of normal bagged concrete it seems impractical for large projects. My
next test will probably be to start with an off-the-shelf sand mix. I've decided
to use a darker color, so having white portland cement isn't a necessity.
> One thing that you failed to me is that, in addition to the helpers
> you already mentioned, have somebody whose sole purpose is to clean
> the tools as they are dirtied if you don't want to ruin the
> tools. Most small cement men don't have the time or money to have a
> man just for that purpose. After the concrete has hardened on their
> shovels or wheelbarrows, they pound them with their hammers. Since
> it's a light covered, the concrete chips off. This also works for
> any other containers such as buckets and mixing or mortar boxes.
Good point! This reminds me that I need to buy a new wooden float;
I didn't clean mine promptly enough and the bottom is now encrusted
with concrete... to the point where I don't think I'll be able to salvage
it. For my small test, and previous outdoor projects, I found that I
could get by with cleaning my tools as the project went along. Shovels,
etc. get rinshed off as soon as all of the concrete has been placed.
For the countertop test, I rinsed screeds, and trowels with water
immediately following their use. Sadly, the float got set aside and
forgotten until it was too late...
-- Scott
Good Morning,
A little while ago, I wrote about using Festool tools to construct
solid-surface countertops for bathroom vanities. Well, I did some
research, and had some offline communication with Patrick Austermann,
and as a result I fell in love with the idea of doing concrete
countertops. So has my wife! She now wants concrete countertops in
the kitchen as well as the bathrooms! So now it's up to me to do it
right...
Of course, my question is about using Festool sanders for this job. I
have the Rotex RO125, the Rotex RO150, the ETS150/5, and the RAS 115
rotary sander.
Has anyone had experience using Festool sanders to take a concrete
surface through all the stages of grinding and polishing so it's ready
for use?
My main concerns are:
What steps should I follow to get the best results?
How do I do the initial grinding so the surface is smooth?
What compounds and accessories are needed for a polished surface?
Are there special techniques for polishing concrete?
Please jump in with ideas, advice, or information I should be aware of.
I'm thinking this is something other members could benefit from.
Thanks everyone,
Matthew
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
As I recall, the new version of the RO150 should have a much better
seal that will prevent solid surface grit from getting up into the
shaft area. I believe the new RO125 already has this new seal.
Bill
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Matthew, All,
I think there is a reason that almost all pros seem to be using
wet grinding. There are some tools for dry grinding but is extremely
messy and hard on the tools.
This is one area where I would not use Festools for grinding and
polishing. However, you need to build the forms to pour the concrete
in (melamine is good) and for that the Festool system is ideal ...
The RO is fine for touchup and refining concrete countertop edges but
not for larger surfaces.
For wet grinding Flex and MK have a very good reputation - you want a
variable speed grinder such as the Porter Cable/Flex LW603VR with
integral water feed. If you only do this very rarely, a cheap variable
speed polisher wand a bucket with water and a hole poked in the side
will do just fine. You will also need a cheap set of diamond grinding
pads at least from grit 50 - 1000 (4 - 5 different grits).
Don't forget a GFCI to keep you alive.
With the money you save you can then buy a DOMINO ... eventually
)Good web sites to see are
http://www.concreteexchange.com (DIY oriented)http://www.stonesoupconcrete.com/ for inspirationhttp://store.granitecitytool.com/store/main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=AA Tools
Relatively inexpensive tools for this are sold at Harbor Freight
(sorry ...) andhttp://www.bargainblade.com/product_info.php/products_id/79
You certainly can use a RO for DRY final buffing / waxing after sealing.
But I'll stop now since this is the FOG. There is a forum for
decorative conrete athttp://www.decorative-concrete.net/forum/index.php
But it is fun and messy !
Patrick
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
"mattseeker" wrote:
> A little while ago, I wrote about using Festool tools to construct
> solid-surface countertops for bathroom vanities. Well, I did some
> research, and had some offline communication with Patrick Austermann,
> and as a result I fell in love with the idea of doing concrete
> countertops. So has my wife! She now wants concrete countertops in
> the kitchen as well as the bathrooms! So now it's up to me to do it
> right...
I've also been interested in concrete countertops ever since reading
Fu-Tung Cheng's first book on the subject. FWIW, I highly recommend
"Decorative Concrete" by Jeanne Huber, recently published by Sunset.
It provides a number of very detailed project descriptions; I found it to
be much more practical than Fu-Tung Cheng's book.
> Has anyone had experience using Festool sanders to take a concrete
> surface through all the stages of grinding and polishing so it's ready
> for use?
I made a 2'x2' test slab using Buddy Rhodes Concrete Countertop
mix. Super-expensive, but available locally and I figured it would give
me the best chance at success. I don't own any Festool sanders,
so I used foam-backed diamond pads for the sanding. I started with
a 70 grit pad and hand-sanded up to 400 grit, I think, in 4 or 5 steps.
I pretty much followed the project guide from "Decorative Concrete".
The book suggested wet sanding, but I found that the sludge created
tended to clog the diamond pad so I gave up on it pretty quickly. A
Festool sander with vacuum would probably be much better... With
the small, flexible pads I used, it was difficult to get the surface
completely level. If I owned one, I'd be tempted to start with the Rotex
RO150. I suspect you'll need to have quite a bit of sandpaper on hand.
> My main concerns are:
> What steps should I follow to get the best results?
Consider buying one of the new man-made quartz materials rather
than concrete? Seriously. I think concrete is pretty cool, and if you
do it yourself it can be pretty inexpensive. But there ARE some
drawbacks.
The biggest one is figuring out how to seal the concrete so that it
won't stain. I tried a number of different products and determined
that it's difficult or impossible to keep the concrete from staining.
I had the best results using several applications of penetrating
sealer (e.g. Miracle 511 Impregnator), followed by a surface sealer
(I used TileLab Gloss Sealer & Finish, though I'd suggest you use
the matte version), followed by wax. This three-step approach
seemed to give the best results in my tests with water and red
wine. I would expect to have to re-do the surface sealer and wax
at regular intervals.
If you, or your wife, is looking for a countertop that's going to start
perfect and stay perfect for years to come concrete probably isn't
for you.
> How do I do the initial grinding so the surface is smooth?
I'd suggest using a 40- or 60-grit abrasive. Use the biggest sander
you have, and try to keep it level to the surface. The best way to
get the surface smooth would seem to be to cast the countertop
upside down, using a melamine form. The melamine supposedly
starts you out with a relatively smooth surface, which requires much
less sanding/polishing.
I cast my test piece right side up, as if it were going to be cast in
place, and found that screeding and floating the surface smooth
was a bit of an art. As a result, I had to do quite a bit of sanding.
> What compounds and accessories are needed for a polished surface?
> Are there special techniques for polishing concrete?
I was able to achieve a relatively polished surface by just sanding with
finer and finer abrasives. I stopped after 400 grit. That, combined with
the sealer three step sealer, left me with a surface that was very smooth
to the touch. If you want a super-glossly look, then proceed through
600, 1000, and higher grits. Wiping the surface with a damp cloth and
shining light across the surface at an angle should help you determine
whether you've removed all of the scratches from the previous coat.
Even if you want a polished look, I'd suggest using a "matte" surface
sealer. I used gloss and wasn't entirely happy with the results. If you
look directly at the counter, it doesn't seem that glossy... but when
the light hits the surface at the right angle EVERY little imperfection in
the surface jumps out at you.
> Please jump in with ideas, advice, or information I should be aware of.
Coloring concrete is much like finishing wood, even with the best research
and intentions you may find that the color doesn't turn out exactly as
expected. I'd suggest doing several test pours to practice the techniques
and coloring before comitting to an entire kitchen or other large project.
Dark colors probably make many stains less obvious. Pay at least as much
attention to the aggregates used as to any dyes/colors!
I haven't done too much research for my area, but you may find it difficult
to locate the special materials (e.g. white portland cement) and additives
necessary for a concrete countertop. May be especially true if you want
small quantities. I'm sure the stuff is available in my area, after all Fu-Tung
Cheng and Buddy Rhodes are both in my backyard, I just wasn't able to
find it in the first 3-4 phone calls.
I find that concrete feels very cold and unwelcoming to the touch. Being
a stone-like product I expected this to some degree, but the reality was
a bit beyond what I'd anticipated. I was initially put off by this, to the point
where I was looking for electric heat mats that could be embedded in the
slab, though I've since gotten used to it. If you want a surface that will
be warm, or even neutral to the touch, think twice about concrete.
For small projects, I'd suggest having at least one helper. For a large
project, like a cast-in-place kitchen counter, I'd suggest having several
people to help. The minute you pour water into the concrete mix, the
clock starts to tick... The situation will be much less stressful if you
have people to help mix, transport, fill forms, screed, etc.
Working with concrete is messy business. I cast my test piece on my
dining room table, just to see if I could deal with the mess that would
be created during a cast in place project. No matter how careful you are,
you'll inevitably spill concrete (or colorants) somewhere! Especially if
you're rushing around trying to do everything yourself...
I had the most trouble around the edges of my test slab. The material
was very porous in this area. Maybe because I had too much water, or
perhaps because I didn't manage to vibrate the slab very effectively. I
used a sander to vibrate the slab, which several books/articles suggested,
but it didn't seem to do much.
Finally, remember that concrete is heavy stuff! My 24.5" x 21.5" x 1.5"
test slab used the better part of a 70lb bag of concrete mix. Not sure
I'd want to try to move even a moderately large slab!
Good luck! If you decide to give concrete a try, I'd be very interested to
know what you do and how it turns out!
-- Scott
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Scott, Patrick, and others
Thanks for your extremely detailed responses! It helps a lot to hear
from those who have done this kind of work, who experience the same
learning curve I'll be experiencing if I go this route.
I have a list of books I want to check out:
Here are the ones Scott mentioned:
"Concrete Countertops" by Fu-Tung Cheng
"Decorateive Concrete" by Jeanne Huber
Here are two others on my list (I don't know how good they are):
"Concrete at Home" by Fu-Tung Cheng
Decorating with Concrete Indoors" by Tina Skinner
This sounds like it could be an exciting project, well worth the
effort to learn all about it. I'm still weighing the benefits of
concrete versus solid-surface, so this is a good process.
And of course I am also trying to assess when I should, and should
not, use Festool tools for this effort.
Thank you again!
Matthew
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Matthew,
I have both books by Cheng. Concrete Countertops focuses on the actual
proces of making the contertops whereas "Concrete at Home" also shows
many other applications - floors, walls, etc. and is a general source
of inspiration ...
The Cheng DVD is decent - check his web site for a special. I
recommend to make samples in disposable glad containers until you get
it right, then make a larger sample (I did a cantilevered board for
the hallway with an inlaid 8 inch sea shell as a key tray) and then
tackle something bigger. You can inlay any object. I used mother of
pearl and Carnelian Stone for my countertop. The Cheng sealer works
for me - it gives me the glossy surface I was looking for and is easy
to use.
It is a lot easier than you think
)Patrick
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Matthew,
If you have access to the DIY network on TV, Rock Solid did a program on Concrete Coutertops:
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_droc/episode/0,2499,DIY_21539_37348,00.html
[Les]
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
"mattseeker" wrote:
> I have a list of books I want to check out:
>
> Here are the ones Scott mentioned:
> "Concrete Countertops" by Fu-Tung Cheng
> "Decorateive Concrete" by Jeanne Huber
>
> Here are two others on my list (I don't know how good they are):
> "Concrete at Home" by Fu-Tung Cheng
> Decorating with Concrete Indoors" by Tina Skinner
I have "Concrete at Home" by Fu-Tung Cheng in addition to the
other two books I mentioned. "Concrete at Home" branches out
from countertops and covers concrete floors, pathways, fireplace
surrounds, walls, and many other uses. I'd characterize it as being
more of an "idea" book than a practical how-to guide. That's not to
say there isn't "how to" information, just that it sort of assumes
you've picked up the basics from Cheng's previous book.
-- Scott
* * * *
Re: Festool Sanders for Concrete Countertops
Al Lenkner wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info. My younger son wants to pour his own
> countertop for his kitchen. I do have a question for you: What
> makes Buddy Rhodes Concrete Countertop Mix so special? Is it
> different from the white Portland cement that you mentioned later in
> your report.
Concrete is a mixture of portland cement, sand, aggregates, and
water. "Decorative Concrete" has a very good explanation of this,
BTW. Buddy Rhodes Concrete Counter Mix is a bagged mix that
is specifically designed for use in countertops. Unlike other bagged
mixes, it includes white portland cement (= brighter colors), granite
dust (= stone-like surface sparkles), sand, and special additives that
supposedly help the concrete cure without cracking.
I found that it worked very well for my test pour, but at 10X the price
of normal bagged concrete it seems impractical for large projects. My
next test will probably be to start with an off-the-shelf sand mix. I've decided
to use a darker color, so having white portland cement isn't a necessity.
> One thing that you failed to me is that, in addition to the helpers
> you already mentioned, have somebody whose sole purpose is to clean
> the tools as they are dirtied if you don't want to ruin the
> tools. Most small cement men don't have the time or money to have a
> man just for that purpose. After the concrete has hardened on their
> shovels or wheelbarrows, they pound them with their hammers. Since
> it's a light covered, the concrete chips off. This also works for
> any other containers such as buckets and mixing or mortar boxes.
Good point! This reminds me that I need to buy a new wooden float;
I didn't clean mine promptly enough and the bottom is now encrusted
with concrete... to the point where I don't think I'll be able to salvage
it. For my small test, and previous outdoor projects, I found that I
could get by with cleaning my tools as the project went along. Shovels,
etc. get rinshed off as soon as all of the concrete has been placed.
For the countertop test, I rinsed screeds, and trowels with water
immediately following their use. Sadly, the float got set aside and
forgotten until it was too late...
-- Scott
