Festool saws and rails for Lefties?

[Michael Kellough]

Ya know,

Left handed people are working with the right side of the brain.

The creative part.

So the way I figure it, and no derision meant or implied,

seeing as you have this gift.....

You can use the right side of the brain that you exercise more then us rightys,

to finish the above sentence. ;D

That's why it's annoying to have to use the right hand, then you're using the wrong side of the brain.

Sorry about skipping out on the creative writing thing Per but it's too much like a fill-in-the-blank test, which always bugged me since there are so many possibilities and only one gets you any points.

 

[Per Swenson]

Michael,

Oh I am sorry.

Creative and independent.

The correct "fill in the blank answer" revised due to your perceptive reply is...

Quit moanin and independently create a usable work around.

Please notice the smiley faces ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Per

 

[Michael Kellough]

Michael,

Oh I am sorry.

Creative and independent.

The correct "fill in the blank answer" revised due to your perceptive reply is...

Quit moanin and independently create a usable work around.

Please notice the smiley faces ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Per

I sure did! You've now exceeded your monthly allotment and it's only the 13th.

What happened, keyboard stuck?

 

[Per Swenson]

No. No, the keyboard is not stuck.

I just wanted to make sure the sensitive types understood

that I wasn't was kidding.

Per

 

[d.epstein]

righty circular saw is dangerous it you operate from right side.  If it kicks back, it can climb right up your leg before the blade guard closes down over the blade. (actually happened to a friend of mine with over 50 yrs experience in construction)  This cannot happen with Festool saws.

Tinker

The potential for an accident is the same with all saws.
Retracting guard and retracting blade.
If you have a kickback with any saw you better be at the safe side.

 

[Per Swenson]

The potential for an accident is the same with all saws.
Retracting guard and retracting blade.
If you have a kickback with any saw you better be at the safe side.

[/quote]

Err,ah, No.

Per

 

[d.epstein]

I don't know any circular saws with auto stopping blades.
Even the saws with electric brakes are to slow to prevent an accident.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I think Per is referring to the spring that will quickly un-plunge the Festool saw as quickly as the saw blade extracts itself from the wood to come at you. It's a simple compression spring way more powerful and quick acting the the usually wimpy little overextended extension springs on retractable guard type circular saws.

Also, the way I use my saw is to release the plunge lock with my thumb and pull the trigger with index finger then move my thumb off the plunge release and saw ahead. If the saw should kick back and come off the rail (unlikely with the splitter) the saw will quickly un-plunge and be locked from re-plunging.

Finally, the plunge motion pivots from the rear which offers a little more margin of safety in the event of kickback. Should the saw base hit your leg there isn't enough leverage from the back end of the shoe to re-plunge the saw even if the plunge lock is released.

 

[Brice Burrell]

........Also, the way I use my saw is to release the plunge lock with my thumb and pull the trigger with index finger then move my thumb off the plunge release and saw ahead. If the saw should kick back and come off the rail (unlikely with the splitter) the saw will quickly un-plunge and be locked from re-plunging...........

Michael, great tip! I knew it was just a matter of time before you posted something worth while, it only took you 1200+ posts to do it.  ;D

 

[Per Swenson]

Yeah!

What Michael Said...and

Yeah! what Brice said.

Now back to reality.

Mr Epstein, I have to ask, do you use a 55. 65. or 75 saw?

I only ask, because as Michael said if you experience kick back with one of these saws,

it would be with the At 55 or 65 with the riving knife removed

I have done this, experienced kick back with the knife removed, once.

When it happened the saw blade was inside the guard before any damage could be

done to body or material.

Just sayin.

Per

 

[Michael Kellough]

........Also, the way I use my saw is to release the plunge lock with my thumb and pull the trigger with index finger then plunge the saw, move my thumb off the plunge release and saw ahead. If the saw should kick back and come off the rail (unlikely with the splitter) the saw will quickly un-plunge and be locked from re-plunging...........

Michael, great tip! I knew it was just a matter of time before you posted something worth while, it only took you 1200+ posts to do it.  ;D

Thanks Brice but if that's the one sentence of mine that you like I better add in the bit I left out. I'll add it into the quoted section above.

 

[d.epstein]

Nice tip releasing the plunge lock.
The plunge spring is very quick and I can see the safety benefits if the saw jumps straight up.

With or without the riving knife when something goes wrong the saw walks backwards.
Step on the cord and the safety device, the spring, creates the kickback.
Do the same with the plunge spring locked in plunge position and the saw
stops without a kickback.

The riving knife prevents the wet and twisted wood from pinching
the blade and may cause a kickback.
I don't see the need for a riving knife on panels and stable materials.

I can only  see one safety benefit with  non retractable riving knifes on circular saws.
You have a kickback. The non retractable riving knife forces the saw to jump off the rails instead of the saw walking back on you.

Cutting from the opposite side of the blade is  always safer.