festool trion jigsaw

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surfmirrors

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
22
Hello there,

I purchased my jigsaw about 4 months ago, i only cut 18mm birch ply with it.
I wonder what recommendations you have for setup with this tool, as i cant cut out one sheet without breaking at least 2 blades.

I am using the clean cut blades (thinnest possible) as i need a clean cut on entry and exit sides.
I broke 5 blades cutting one sheet, so at this rate (and it was 2 1/2 times more expensive than my Bosch jigsaw) i won't be able to afford to run it !!!

Over to you then,

Thanks,

Wayne
 
Surfmirrors,

Welcome to the forum!

It might help if you could specify the precise make, type and code of the blade that you are suffering these breakages with. I don't have a Trion myself, but my first thought would be that it's a blade problem rather than a powertool problem.
 
Also, where is the break happening?  Is it just above the surface of the ply (so at the level of the jigsaw's foot)?  Are you using the splinter guard?  Lastly, when you have the blade in the saw, is there a lot of play side to side (when off, obviously :))?  There are adjustments for the blade guides that may not be correctly set for the blades you are using especially if they are noticeably thinner than the regular Festool blades.
 
Sounds like you are using the Bosch blades - "clean cut". They make quite a few different blades that will give very clean cuts. Sounds like you may be using the tiny scrolling blade - about 1/8" deep. If you don't need to cut intricate curves, use the thickest or deepest blade that will make the cut you need. I have never had a Bosch blade break cutting wood or plywood. Purchase the Bosch combo blade set or Festool combo blade set and try them out. They do have reverse tooth blades and also double tooth blades to give smooth edges top and bottom. The Festool blades are very high quality as well and offer some great options for deep cuts that will give great results.
 
Well, sorry to say so, but if you brake 5 blades on one sheet you've either bought a very bad quality blades or you're doing something completely wrong yourself. I think I've perhaps broken 2 or 3 blades in over 20 years. And I'm not the type to treat them nicely. Is it possible the sheet of ply wasn't supported all around? Blades break out of stress and the biggest and perhaps only stress I can imagine for a blade is if it is caught in the wood when the two side of the cut somehow sheer together.
 
Thanks for the speedy response fella's,

ok then, they are festool blades, all of them. double teeth for clean cuts and tight radius cutting.
i cant use the splinter guard as i need to follow the line EXACTLY, tried the splinter guard, went 3mm away from line, 3hrs work and ?20 worth of wood scrapped.

The blade guide at first gave off sparks when cutting tight curves, backed it off a little, all good there now.

Now one comment, (cant see previous comments from here to credit) about workpiece not being fixed/held firm.
Kind of tricky with an 8 x 4 sheet on tressles but any tips, again welcome.

If you want an idea as to what i am doing, take a look at www.bourne-craft.com

Thanks again chaps..
 
just re-read the comments,

blades are breaking mostly near the top of the row of teeth, but today one 1/4in from bottom
 
peterk, i used bosch and anyother make in my bosch jigsaw, but have only used festool with the trion
 
Alex, wow so few blades in so long a time !

Remember i am cutting 100% birch 18mm thick  too, some real tight radius also.

Thanks..
 
Your products look pretty cool.

Are you using the agressive, pendulous mode or the vertical mode?

For scrolling and other fine work, I eliminate the pendulum action.

Tom
 
Sorry Tom, baby keeps banging the laptop !!!

Ok, let me know what you think i should do pendulum wise, for straight cuts, and then into tight curves ?

Thank you,

Wayne
 
Wayne:

The green control on the left-front is what Festool calls the "pendulum stroke switch". If you set the pendulum control to zero (all the way back), The blade travels straight up and down. That's the only way I would use it to scroll and with a scrolling blade, you can turn on a dime or more like a BB.

There's a FAQ on the Festool USA site about using that control optimally.

I'm guessing that's why your blades are breaking but perhaps it's something else.

Tom
 
I noticed that you mentioned that you were getting sparks when you first used the blade.  Brian and I shot a quick video that shows the proper process for setting the carbide jaws on the Trion jigsaw.  Here's a quick overview to go with the video.

- Unplug the power from the jigsaw, always follow the safety instructions in your product's manual
- Insert the jigsaw blade using the FastFix mechanism
- While holding the blade, carefully pull down on the blade to bring it to the lowest point in the pendulum action
- Move the pendulum setting to its #3 setting which is closest to the front of the saw
- Remove the wrench from the rear of the jigsaw base plate
- Using the wrench, tighten the hex nut in a clockwise direction until it is fully tightened against the blade
- While pushing gently against the blade with your thumb, use the wrench in a counter-clockwise direction to loosen the hex nut until the blade slips free from the carbide jaws

This will give set tension on the jaws which will minimize deflection and also minimize wear on the blade.

How to set the carbide jaws for a Festool Trion jigsaw
 
Shane and Brian thanks so much for putting together this video.  [thanks] I know you can't make a video every time someone has a problem, but if you could make some videos that covers some of the most common problems that wold be greatly appreciated.
 
Great to see a video like this. I remember a while back there was a thread on here about training and a lot of people mentioned videos on YouTube.

Well, I think this one is exactly what people were talking about. We don't need big tutorials on how to build a cabinet with a Festool, just these little vids explaining these nifty little features of the tools. You don't know the tool nor do you get the best out of it until you've adjusted every little knob and screw on it to fit your own needs. [big grin]

Surfmirrors, I'm sorry if I put this a bit too quick on user error. Seems these carbide jaws might have been the problem. I didn't know they were there and I fully blame my lack of knowledge on Shane for not posting this video earlier and on Festool for making the thing too damn pricey for me to buy  [wink] . After all, I already bought 5 Festools in 1 year and I'm just a no good guy with no proper job or source of income  [tongue] , so the Trion is still out of my reach. I see all these subjects about all the tools come by here every day and I'd love to talk along and pretend to know something but unfortunately, this is not always the case. Again I blame Festool, because if these tools where 25 bucks each, I'd be able to offer the world an incredible wealth of knowledge about them.  [big grin]. In other news, I live a lot in my own fantasy world too.  [unsure]
 
ok guys i will get the code numbers/blade model when in my workshop tomoz.

thanks for the speedy responses thus far tho'

i have been using it with the pendulum at the 0 setting mostly, forward 1 notch to 'experiment' a little.
dont call me stupid guys, do i assume that complete forward setting (3) is for straight cuts then ? setting 2 ? setting 1?

thanks once again..
 
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