Festool Worktop Jig

jmbfestool

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Joined
Jan 9, 2009
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6,646
Started this thread as it was starting to take over the thread! Sorry!

This is how I have my jig set up I have never read the instructions so I dont know if this is how your suppose to have it but it works for me and I have done many many many work top joints with it and never had any problems the way I have it set up now.

When I first had it it was a little bit of a trial an error as I had the two 200MFS rails on one side and then on opposite sides and what not  and it was not working for me because as I flipped the jig over the 200MDFs rails would be in the wrong place so I was not able to clamp the rail from both ends which meant I was then moving stuff about which was waisting time.

After the first joint I soon realised if I had the both 200MFT rails on opposite sides on the same end it would allow me to flip the jig for left or right joints and I would be able to always clamp the jig down on both ends.

LOVES:

I love the jig best jig I have ever used.  The main thing which I love about the jig are the bolt plates.

Every worktop job is different and you cant always position the bolts in the same place every time.  With a normal lets say Trend jig you often only have 2 bolt holes and they are spaced out at a certain distance which you can not alter.
So you could end up moving your jig 2 times to get your bolts where you exactly want them and at least once as I assume most people do 3 bolt holes and seen as it only has 2 you would have to move it at least once.

So this is where the Festool jig is brilliant as you can position each bolt plate exactly where you want it!   I currently only have two as that all you get with it but I have ordered a 3rd just waiting for a tool I fancy to cover the delivery charge.  

Having 3 bolt plates will allow you to get all 6 bolt holes aligned together a lot easier and quicker because you can leave your jig setup and all you have to do is align one bolt plate with another and the other two will be in the exact same place without needing to adjust anything

Another great benefit to this jig is it can do much wider work tops than a standard 600mm worktop.      This is becuse you don't actually ever clamp the jig its self only the MFS rails so once you have positioned the jig clamped the rails down you can slide the jig along the rail by just loosening two screws this means your jig stays exactly in the same place put just move along the width of the worktop its the same thing with the bolt plates aswell.

Another great advantage to this jig over the other jigs on the market is that it uses festool clamps  just like a guide rail, they clamp under the worktop this means you never have any problems with clamps getting in the way while routing and you know the jig is not going to move as it holds it in position extremly well

It a nice heavy solid jig which will last for ever!

HATES:

I only thing I hate is the actual jig not being long enough (so not the entire setup MFS rails) its only for a 600mm worktop now even though this is not a major problem like I have mentioned before on the other thread but it is kinda annoying.  It wouldn't harm if the jig was just 15mm or more bigger.  Its not a major issue as you can move the jig along the rail which solves the problem  but for a 4mm lip its kinda annoying!   I often just leave it as it does not really harm the joining of the worktops and its right at the back and a upstand or tiles cover it and because it happens to both cut male and female joint they match together any way.

would I still buy the jig if I had known YES as I think its the best jig I have used so far.  If festool made a 620 jig would I buy it yes as I would rather it did just reach till the end.

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EDITED:  Some Videos and more Pictures Coming Soon   [popcorn]

JMB
 
A member sent me some information and asked that I post it here.  Here goes!

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Peter
 
Windmill Man I take it!

I dont need it! I know how to use it  [tongue] [tongue] lol I cant remember seeing any instructions with mine im sure not. Im going to have a look through my festool draw later and see if I put it in der.

How it explains how to use the jig is not how I use it at all.

I dont use two of the holes as they are of no use to me.   Like I said I often have 615 work tops and the female location hole is designed for a 600!  Even if I was doing a 600 work top I still would not use that location pin as its saying your work top is up to the wall and some times it could be 5 mm away because the walls being so bad which would mean female could be 5mm out from the front so your over hang of your male would different to the rest.

Also the instructions does not show the use of the 200MFS rails  it comes with 2 so why does it not show how to use the two rails?  It also has it positioned on the end of the rail  Okay nothing wrong with that but it just makes the over length of the jig longer.

JMB
 
Peter,

Thank you very much for the posting of the PDF, much appreciated

Brett ,

Thought it might have been of interest to you.

Glad you have found away of getting it to work for you.

Enjoy it, as it is a good jig.

Others ,not familiar with the jig may get some better understanding, of how it works.

John
 
windmill man said:
Peter,

Thank you very much for the posting of the PDF, much appreciated

Brett ,

Thought it might have been of interest to you.

Glad you have found away of getting it to work for you.

Enjoy it, as it is a good jig.

Others ,not familiar with the jig may get some better understanding, of how it works.

John

Thank you any way dude!

JMB
 
Come on then Brett, where is this video ?  You know you can speak in the videos to explain things  [poke] or have you got a squeaky voice  ;D  [bite tongue]
 
You will love this Video WoodGuy I made it like I did because of your voice comment! Well I dont think it will b as bad as your scottish voice ! [tongue] [poke]  Haahaa!  I might do another one because  I dont think its that good I have speeded it up a little cus was boring BUT I dont kno if that was a very good idea!

Let me know Ill do another one later I might actually say a few words lol!

Jig!
 
Where do you get them bolts from? Looks far easier than getting under the worktop with a spanner  [big grin]

John..
 
neth27 said:
Where do you get them bolts from? Looks far easier than getting under the worktop with a spanner  [big grin]

John..

They're ZipBolts (though I've never seen the metal-bodied ones before).
 
neth27 said:
Where do you get them bolts from? Looks far easier than getting under the worktop with a spanner  [big grin]

John..

I have always used them bolts they are called zip bolts. I used the ones with a spanner once and I was like sod that never again real pain especially when you struggle to get inside the unit underneath.

Howdens sell them they cost a little more but the time your save is massive!

You save time routering cus you can do key hole cut outs instead of a cross cut out to allow for spanner adjustment.
You save time tigthening and they are very strong.  They use to be made out of plastic I kept on breaking them they where crap. 

I have only ever broken one metal one out of hundereds i have used but the good thing is wen it broke it stayed tight you just couldn't loosen it again which i suppose is bad if you wanted to loosen it lol lol. The reason I broke it cus I had my drill in speed 2 and went a little to far.

Best keep it slow won't do it again
 
Brett,

The arrow and scales and the holes that you dont use or understand are for calibrating the jig.

John
 
Cheers, Never seen them in Howdens before, i will have to ask next time im in there... So im best off not tightening them with my Hilti impact driver then  [big grin]

John..
 
neth27 said:
Cheers, Never seen them in Howdens before, i will have to ask next time im in there... So im best off not tightening them with my Hilti impact driver then   [big grin]

John..

Depending on howdens in your area some howdens are out dated and crap.  My local local howdens is brilliant but another howdens not to far from me either is rubbish never heard of them zip bolts in metal only plastic.

  Most howdens don't give you the zip bolts as an options they just give your the cheapest to keep cost down but my local howdens tells tradesmen about the zip bolts and has them on the desk  and ask if you want normal or zip bolts.

No I would not use a impact drill not a good idea!    Another benefit with them is if you need to cut out part of the unit to access to the bolts to tighten them  well with these zip bolts you don't have to cut out as much a small hole will do.

Jmb
 
Great vid jmb made me chuckle, I'm readin this on my phone so please forgive me if I'm wrong but do the instructions say to cut the hip first and then finish the straight edge?
 
Dan1210 said:
Great vid jmb made me chuckle, I'm readin this on my phone so please forgive me if I'm wrong but do the instructions say to cut the hip first and then finish the straight edge?

I see it I don't know y it says that it's not how I do it I do it in 3 passes front to back DONE!

 
if i understand the instructions correctly it tells you to climb cut. seems a bit dangerous
 
Deansocial said:
if i understand the instructions correctly it tells you to climb cut. seems a bit dangerous

Yeah what do festool know!  Im going to keep on doing it how I always do it works for me

Jmb
 
Yea, i go front to back in about 4 passes, works for me.  How much are those bolts by the way.  I have never seen them before but you can be dam sure i will be getting some  [smile]
Cool video by the way, i bit to fast in bits though, it was kinda a blur  [blink]  I get the gist though as the principle is basically the same as any worktop jig.
Is there any sideways play between the opening in the jig & the guide collar ?  I have the Freud jig, had it for about 15 years, good jig.  It will do 90 deg joins, 45 deg  joins, radius ends for breakfast bar ends, long straight 45 deg cuts & it has 3 bolt holes.  Oh, it will do 616mm worktops as well  [tongue]  That jig owes me nothing.

What cutters are you guys using ?  I use trend replaceable cutters at 25mm long.

 
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