Filling a domino cut through

Heathwarren

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I built some mitered boxes, but my lumber was thinner than I wanted (17mm) and my 5mm domino - 45 degree mitered cut barely cut through the other side. Just enough to notice. I need to fill it in, but not sure the best way to do it. What are some recommendations on products that you have had success with in situations like this? The wood in question is walnut. I plan to finish it with a gel polyurethane or Rubio Monocoat. I haven’t decided which one yet. Thanks
 

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Fast forward to 5:00 in this video to see how Keith Johnson fixes his errant plunge. It's not a through hole like your situation but might work if you can find a piece with similar grain.


Otherwise, make a patch like a bowtie or similar that won't hide the patch but stand out as part of the design.
 
I'm with Anthony, make it a feature that blends nicely and adds extra character!
 

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Going across the grain makes this even harder to cover. You can often get by with making an "edge grain" Domino to fill a mark like this, regardless of the origin of the blemish, when the length of it follows the grain.
I have seen so very skilled guys who can blend this kind of thing as part of the finishing process. You would just assemble as normal, not getting glue everywhere in the process, and fill the hole with a regular wood filler. They then "paint" the grain back in place with various forms of voodoo. It's generally pretty costly too.
 
Furniture restorers can resort to this type of marker for graining (about $15 Cdn per marker):
https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/cat...up-markers/brush-tip-graining-markers/1058138

"APPLICATION
Uses for the brush tip graining marker:
- Add grain lines or alter the color of a Fil-Stik® Putty Stick, Quick Fill® Burn-In Stick, PlaneStick® Burn-In Stick, or E-Z Flow Burn-In Stick.
- Add color to small sand-through areas on the face or edge of wooden parts.
- Add or alter color in any small defect.

- Features a micro brush tip applicator."
 
Crazyraceguy said:
Going across the grain makes this even harder to cover. You can often get by with making an "edge grain" Domino to fill a mark like this, regardless of the origin of the blemish, when the length of it follows the grain.
I have seen so very skilled guys who can blend this kind of thing as part of the finishing process. You would just assemble as normal, not getting glue everywhere in the process, and fill the hole with a regular wood filler. They then "paint" the grain back in place with various forms of voodoo. It's generally pretty costly too.

I did this once for a picture frame that fell off the hook and broke a section, it was by far the most tedious and time consuming repair I'd ever done. Would have been cheaper and less aggravating to just buy a new frame, but this had sentimental value unfortunately.
 
Timbermate.  You can blend colors.  And then mohawk brush tip markers.  Restorers will typically use the Fil-Stik, but that's a wax product and monocoat will not touch that.  One typically varnishes or another film style top-coat over Fil-Stik.  Timbermate will accept hard-wax oils 80% and may exhibit a tiny bit of sheen difference at higher gloss levels.

I'd ding up a test piece and see if you can live with that difference using Rubio.  Otherwise, film top coat it.
 
My first job in 1971 was staining in a custom kitchen factory, Wood Mode.  I eventually became the reject guy, responsible for matching up pieces that had replaced due to damage of one sort or another.  My final job there was inspection and touch up and we used Mohawk products exclusively...I still have the small suitcase style kit.  Burning in colored shellacs was the trickiest part, I can remember fixing quarter sized tear outs.  These skills became useful when my daughter bought a 1939 house with all original trim and shellac finish which of course had that weathered crazed surface.  Most interesting thing about the house was that there were no doors on the three upstairs bedrooms, only the bathroom had a door.  I bought three six panel doors from Lowes as budget consideration and stained them to match the existing finish.  Another interesting find was that when I routed the hinges it turned out the jambs had ben patched and my routings were within an 1/8" of the original locations.  So, were the original doors removed or were the jambs patched before installation????
 
ChuckS said:
Furniture restorers can resort to this type of marker for graining (about $15 Cdn per marker):

Yeah, but you need the eye and the skill to use it.

Trena, from John's Furniture Repair (Youtube) could fill that and make it pretty much invisible.
I couldn't do that if I tried for 10 years.
 
Heathwarren said:
I built some mitered boxes, but my lumber was thinner than I wanted (17mm) and my 5mm domino - 45 degree mitered cut barely cut through the other side. Just enough to notice. I need to fill it in, but not sure the best way to do it. What are some recommendations on products that you have had success with in situations like this? The wood in question is walnut. I plan to finish it with a gel polyurethane or Rubio Monocoat. I haven’t decided which one yet. Thanks

It is hard to tell how the whole box looks like from your pic, and where the blow-out is relative to the side of the box. One way to hide it depending on the actual location is to inlay a contrast piece (in rectangular shape) and stamp your initials or "2023"on the inlay to show the year of making.

If you use name tags as a form of signing, you can also nail one to cover the blow-out. Here's an example of a name tag I put on a shelf:

[attachimg=1]
 

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