Filling the voids...epoxy?

[Scorpion]

I know this guy that went to school for fine funiture and is very talented.  I've seen some of his inlays that are amazing.  Isn't the fall I observed him "fixing" an imperfection with what he referred to as epoxy. 

I'm currently working on a project where I ended up with a void (wood defect where the grain blew out during a machining operation) and I'd like to fix it.  Now I'm wondering the best way to do so.  Whatever the fix is needs to be stronger than wood filler.  Is there an epoxy-like material I can use or something else you recommend?  Whatever it is it needs to be sand able so I can get it flat again.  Appearance isn't as important as restoring flatness. 

 

[BPCFinishing]

What about just using bondo?  Otherwise there are specific 2 part wood epoxies that will dry harder than regular wood filler.

 

[RJNeal]

I usually use 2 part epoxy on small voids in my end grain cutting boards. I've also used it on a small router blow out on the trusses on this pictured project.[attachthumb=1]
Good luck,
Rick

 

[Hud]

Stick shellac is the classic fix for solid wood furniture, looks like a sap line or small knot

 

[jacko9]

I use West Systems Epoxy which has a base resin and several hardeners that give you properties from Penetrating into cracks and voids to GFlex which has some elastic properties.

West Systems is the best epoxy I have used over the years and adheres to a wide range of woods including oily woods like teak and rosewood and can be leveled smoothly.  You can add epoxy colors is your trying to match a given wood.

Jack

 

[deepcreek]

I use System Three 2-part epoxy.  It can be left clear or tinted black.

 

[Scorpion]

I this particular case the void spans an edge where half is visible and the other half will have a veneer/laminate glued to it so unfortunately color finish match and adhesion properties are both important.

 

[deepcreek]

In my experience, epoxy looks like a plastic fill.  Are you painting or staining?

I've found TimberMate to be a good wood filler and it is stainable (although in my experience nothing ever looks like real wood).

 

[BUTTER]

Mohawk makes a epoxy putty in many colors that you can also mix to match.  It's a two-part epoxy that comes in a putty stick, part A is at the core and the colored part B wraps around it; you cut a section off and mix it with your fingers.  It has very good adhesion, can be shaped easily with next to no shrinkage, and is also tough enough to hold a screw.  I always keep some around for voids and filling.  You can also blend/faux it in with a stain marker, of course.

If you go for a liquid epoxy, you can mix in microspheres to make it thicker, and sanding dust for color.
Some people I know also fill with a gel-thickness cyanocrylate glue (sometimes dyed dark) and then spray the whole thing with activator.