Finally building the (ridiculously overbuilt) grill-stuff storage cart

[luvmytoolz]

Nice, but my peanut gallery comment is concern over your use of mineral oil as an outdoor finish for maple. Yeah, I get you want something food safe for a cutting board, but I would have thought some kind of non-dryer content tung oil at least.

Or maybe cook up some wax/oil blend. 4-1 ratio of mineral oil to beeswax. It still soaks into the wood. but the wax kind of seals it, so it doesn't dry out as quickly. Mineral oil will never actually polymerize (harden) and it's easily renewable.

Good idea, thanks. I have beeswax on hand also.

RMW

If you also add around 5% Carnauba wax it will significantly toughen the coat.

 

[rmwarren]

Mornings are beautiful now; our resident cardinals providing the soundtrack for sunrise. Magnetic catches installed, screwed to some 1/8" steel and epoxied to the doors.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

Even managed to find the sketch of what goes where, & now wondering if stuff will actually fit...

[attachimg=4]

Install shelves and load it up later today, just in time for some grilling. A "thank you" for installing an outdoor carpet arrived yesterday from Omaha Steaks. [drooling]

The boss is finishing a design/renovation project in a condo a few blocks away, I got drafted to assemble furniture and hang artwork, decent view from the "jobsite".

[attachimg=5]

RMW

 

[Michael Kellough]

Have a lot of saltwater bears in your area huh? Looks strong enough.

Can’t believe I’ve never seen a countersink on a crank arm before. Does it work? Did you do that wheel in the center of the top pic with it?

 

[rmwarren]

Have a lot of saltwater bears in your area huh? Looks strong enough.

Can’t believe I’ve never seen a countersink on a crank arm before. Does it work? Did you do that wheel in the center of the top pic with it?

Hey Michael, the countersink is a Noga, works great. They make a line of them branded "Rotodrive". I use it mostly for deburring holes.

The steel magnetic cup came that way, it might be possible to countersink that deeply by hand but it's not a job I'd volunteer for.

There are Polar bears on Brigantine every January 1st...

RMW

 

[Packard]

Really nice work!  Welding is a great complement to woodworking on so many projects.

Like the handle approach!

I assume you drilled the cutting board for the all-thread before you glued it up!

Thank Neil, yes drilled then I used the holes with some non threaded rod for alignment during the glue up. Should have realized I'd have trouble inserting the threaded rod later.

RMW

Perhaps adding a rubber bushing to one end of each rod.  You will still be able to apply clamping force and it will still have the ability to absorb expansion.  You might need slightly longer rods, or drill a deeper inset.

Polyurethane bushings will stand up to the weather better than rubber:
https://www.google.com/search?q=polyurethance bushings&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

Summit Racing has a nice assortment, but I am not seeing dimensions being called out. Car suspension parts, so designed to be exposed to the weather.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...oKRmw3LM_6sJlJ7lrpRmF7hiMqgjUjo8aAhBEEALw_wcB

Addendum:  If you click “see more specifications” they show actual dimensions.

Addendum #2:  If you decide to take the piece apart to have the metal chassis powder coated, note that epoxy powder, while very chemical resistant and very hard so that it will resist scratching, is not UV resistant and will fade badly and quickly when exposed to the sun.

Polyester and Polyurethane powder coating are not as hard and not as chemical resistant, but are (almost always) UV resistant.

Find out what kind of powder that powder coater uses before having any finish applied.

I would say that powder coating is probably the best option for this application.  Powder coasters do not like switching colors or types of powder.  There is an extensive cleaning involved in color changes as residue from the previous color can contaminate the newly installed color.  If you are not in a great hurry then say, “The next time you are running (select your color here), let me know and I will bring the chassis in for powder coating.”

 

[rmwarren]

Completed-ish for the time being.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Interior organization pending. Still need bins for lump and pizza-wood, and maybe a drawer for tools.

But, we confirmed, it makes meat taste better.

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

Enjoy the holiday everyone and honor its purpose.

RMW

 

[rmwarren]

Or maybe cook up some wax/oil blend. 4-1 ratio of mineral oil to beeswax. It still soaks into the wood. but the wax kind of seals it, so it doesn't dry out as quickly. Mineral oil will never actually polymerize (harden) and it's easily renewable.

So ~2 months of direct exposure to the elements and the maple top has weathered very slightly but no issues with the glue joints and the wax/oil is working like a champ. Thanks for that suggestion.

3-4 weeks after the initial treatment I applied a maintenance coat, then this AM:

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

A few days ago we had a deluge blow through with 12 hours of rain which just pooled on the top, so the wood is sealed. Applied a 5-minute maintenance coat of wax/oil after grilling an early dinner.

[attachimg=3]

Also hit the bolt heads with a little rust converter & wiped the frame down with Penetrol. Overall, it's weathering remarkably well, but before winter it needs a cover.

Happy 4th to all.

RMW

 

[rmwarren]

This worked out better than I had a right to expect, seeing as I was winging it with stuff on hand. Stumbled onto some green wood stain while rooting thru the boneyard for something else. Since I'm half looking for an excuse to pour a new top the risk was low.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] turns out the beeswax/mineral oil treatment is also sold (w/ Carnauba oil) specifically for sealing concrete countertops. Who knew?

Temp hit 86 and the humidity arrived, I guess it's finally summer & we are about ready for friends, food & festivities. Stay cool folks.

RMW

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That's pretty cool. It makes sense, but I have never heard of doing that. I like what you have going there. Have you considered coating it with the wax warm? might penetrate better?

I have been playing around with Oil/Wax blends, since the first end grain cutting board. I just gave her some mineral oil at first, then made some beeswax/mineral oil. It's usually sold as board conditioner or board butter. I made mine with some really purified wax that is totally white, trying not to affect the color of the wood.
Since then, I have also experimented with Microcrystalline wax, since it is harder and has a higher melting point. I mixed it with Orange oil, so it could actually harden, rather than need to be absorbed. It is quite a bit stiffer in the cup, but it should be, there is far more wax in the ratio. So far, I have used it on my jointer bed/fence and one of the table saws and it seems fine. The real test is how long it lasts.
Maybe some turpentine, mineral spirits, or Tung oil too? So much to play with, depending on end use.